Battery died, jumped car, now power flickers while driving
#1
Battery died, jumped car, now power flickers while driving
Someone left the trunk of my car open for a while and the battery died. I jumped it and let it sit and run for a while, then I started to drive it and the power throughout the car was flickering on and off - the radio, headlights, gauge cluster lights, power steering and power braking would all cut in and out as I drove (although I was able to drive, and the engine seemed to sound and run fine). I drove it down the block and decided to turn around when I realized the problem wasn't going away. I parked in my driveway and let the car sit in park while I gave it some low revs, thinking that maybe the issue was that the battery didn't get enough charge from the initial jump. There were no power flickering problems while I sat parked, but when I started driving again the same thing happened.
I'm generally familiar with allocating blame between the battery and alternator when it comes to electrical problems, but these symptoms don't seem to fit clearly into one category. I should note that the battery is only about a year old.
Any idea what could be going on? Appreciate the help in advance.
I'm generally familiar with allocating blame between the battery and alternator when it comes to electrical problems, but these symptoms don't seem to fit clearly into one category. I should note that the battery is only about a year old.
Any idea what could be going on? Appreciate the help in advance.
#2
Are your battery cables on tightly? Seems like a cable might be loose. If they are tight get a volt meter and check the alternator and battery. It could be just a coincidence that the battery might have suffered a failure or is failing (hence needing a boost).
#3
As a lesson I have learned in the past, a dead battery can sometimes kill an alternator. Go to you local auto parts store and get a charging system check. They'll do it for free and tell you what's happening.
#4
These vehicles require a fully functional electrical system to operate correctly. This isnt your grandfathers 1940's truck. A weak battery can kill an alternator like jr4div2 above mentioned. This will set you back a couple hundred in parts depending on where you get them from. If you take it to the dealer the parts and labor will run anywhere from $1,200+. Unfortunately the good old days of the 5 year car batteries are nearly extinct. I've only been able to locate the 3 year car battery lately. I would highly suggest replacing the battery in any IS vehicle at the first sign of slow cranking on start up. If you want to prevent this and replace the battery early this could be a preventative maintenance option. Extreme heat will kill a battery early so if you live in a warm climate be ready to replace the battery during the summer months when they are more prone to fail.
#5
Lexus Test Driver
iTrader: (2)
Also keep in mind there is an overrun sprague clutch on the alternator input. If it slips it could cause strange issues. Pop the cap off the pulley and maybe pull the belt off too and inspect for roughness. It should free spin one way only and spin the alternator in the direction of engine rotation.
If it doesnt catch going forward it could be pulley replacement vs alt replacement at 500% increase in cost.
Look for rust, roughness, blown seal...
If it doesnt catch going forward it could be pulley replacement vs alt replacement at 500% increase in cost.
Look for rust, roughness, blown seal...
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