mitchill90

Hi. I have recently acquired an '08 is250 that is being difficult, near impossible to start. The battery was toast in the car when I received it, I put a new one in and the car does exactly what the following youtube video shows. Turns over for the entire starter cycle, sometimes coughing and trying to start. It will begin to run, begin to release brake booster pressure, then falls off and quits. The car HAS started twice in my attempts, once with both pedals pushed all the way (After reading about flooding issues, this was suggested), once with only the typical brake pressure for the push button to activate. The car did smell like bad gas while trying to start, it had less than a 1/4 tank so I topped it up with supreme. Changed the 6 spark plugs. No difference.
Scanner shows codes:
P0102 Mass Air Flow Circuit Low
P0113 Intake Air Temperature Circuit High Input
P0116 Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit Range / Performance

VSC Light is on the dash as well.

Any ideas would be appreciated.

Mrfix

The first thing I would check is the Crankshaft Position sensor. After that make sure you are getting spark. After that make sure you are getting fuel/fuel pressure.

But it sounds like a possible crankshaft position sensor to me.

Let us know what you find.

MikeFig82

iTrader: (13)

+1 on the info above. Since you pulled the codes The MAF sensor is toast, or failing you won’t be able to start the car. Try cleaning it first with CRC MAF cleaner. Being an 08 it may need a tune up if it hasn’t had one in awhile.

mitchill90

I will try a new MAF tomorrow. That was next on the list. Crank sensor could be an option after the MAF is ruled out. What is the suggested tune up procedure for these cars?
Thanks for the quick replies.

mitchill90

New MAF took the check engine light away but made no difference in starting. Not sure where to go, crank sensor as suggested or fuel supply.

Any my suggestions would be appreciated.

2013FSport

iTrader: (2)

With two MAF codes the engine has no clue how much air is being drawn in. Why replace CPS? Whaaaa???

With that corrected I would again hold throttle wide open and crank at least 3 complete cycles. Then add fuel either via spray bottle into TB or starter fluid into accordian hose and quickly assemble hose. I wouldn't worry about clamps.
The goal here, does it fire off and will it run?

Have you disconnected the battery?

mitchill90

Mr.fix suggested the cps above, I'm not sure his reasoning for that.

Yes the car will run after many cycles of the starter with the gas pedal all the way to the floor. I have been abusing the starter to make it start three times total. Once running, it sounds fine.

Battery has has been disconnected a few times, yes.

2013FSport

iTrader: (2)

How many miles?
How far have you driven it once running?
Can you get the service history to see if the top end (valves) have ever been cleaned?

I'm repeating myself here but on the next start up I suggest you A) spritz gas into the open throttle body (remove hose, manually open TB, sprits fuel in, reassemble hose, start engine).
B) Pull air inlet hose at the filter end and spray in Starter Fluid into hose, connect hose and then attempt to start.

Doing either of these actions will tell us if it is a lack of fuel preventing it from starting. Do one and report back. Also look over the injector pump and all DI connections for someone having worked on it and share any history on why you have this car that doesn't run.

PS - Clearly if the CPS failed it would not run at all as that controls fuel and spark. Or it may run but only when cold.

2013FSport

iTrader: (2)

Also, if the starter has been abused (over heated from cranking too long) it may not spin the engine fast enough for it to start. Meaning, the MAF sensor may have fixed the problem but the warn starter prevents it from starting as it should. I am not saying replace the starter. I am ssying, keep this in mind as it may be drawing a lot of current which is effecting it.

Do you own a volt meter with peak detection and storage? Please place a volt meter across the battery and read the voltage while cranking. If peak detection is an option (min/max/average on some meters), report the lowest voltage detected.
it should not be under 10.0volts.

mitchill90

104,000 kms on the car.

I will give the TB some fuel before the next start attempt to narrow down the potential fuel issue. I'm leaning towards a fuel supply issue as well due to the cycles it goes through attempting to start. On the third start button press, it seems to sputter the most and comes very close to starting if it doesn't. This tells me it's getting intermittent fuel or the pump is not priming the amount of fuel expected.

I will also check on the voltage at the battery during cranking. If my voltmeter doesn't do peak detection I will get my hands on one.

Service history is available up to the previous owner. I will read through those and check for valve work. I acquired the car from an exchange student who failed to get into school this year. He was leaving town, the car did not run and he wanted it gone. For what he was asking, it was worth the risk to buy it not running. I have only driven the car a few kilometres, I did let it warm up to operating temperature before the quick drive.

Thanks for the replies, I will report back with the throttle body and voltage information.

mitchill90

Fuel in the throttle body made no difference. Was not able to test the voltage at the battery on this trip.

2013FSport

iTrader: (2)

What exactly did you do? And how much fuel was added?

mitchill90

Fuel was sprayed directly into the open throttle body. Less than 200ml of fuel.

-Mitch