'08 IS250 Starting Trouble
11-24-16, 12:01 PM
#1
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: IN
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
'08 IS250 Starting Trouble
Hey guys
4 days ago I made an hour drive and the car was running fine, with the exception of what sounds like a leak around the middle of the exhaust system. 3 days ago I rearranged some cars on the driveway, moved the IS a couple feet and shut it off. Again, was running fine. Yesterday I went to start the car and it wouldn't have it.
It turns over, will crank and crank and crank, with cylinders firing here or there. I got it to start once, it idled REALLY rough between 700-1000 RPM for about 2-3 seconds then died. Sounded like it was missing. At that point I gave up and took a different car to work.
Car has gas, battery is charged. Even hooked up a jumper pack to make sure.
Today I read on this thread that my engine might be flooded. So I followed the advice that worked for several others and put the brake and accelerator all the way down and held down the starter button. It cranked unsuccessfully for about 10 seconds, with slowly increasing cylinder hits. Stopped and waited a few seconds. Tried it again, cranked, started sounding better this time, but still wouldn't catch and I stopped after about 10 seconds.
Tried a third time, this time it finally caught, and I kept the gas to the floor for a second or two, letting go when it got to about 2000 RPM. Despite letting my foot off the gas it continued to rev up to about 4000 RPM, then it dropped right back down to zero. This whole time it sounded awful. I tried one more time, didn't work. I stopped because I was worried about burning out the starter.
I would really appreciate any ideas you guys have
4 days ago I made an hour drive and the car was running fine, with the exception of what sounds like a leak around the middle of the exhaust system. 3 days ago I rearranged some cars on the driveway, moved the IS a couple feet and shut it off. Again, was running fine. Yesterday I went to start the car and it wouldn't have it.
It turns over, will crank and crank and crank, with cylinders firing here or there. I got it to start once, it idled REALLY rough between 700-1000 RPM for about 2-3 seconds then died. Sounded like it was missing. At that point I gave up and took a different car to work.
Car has gas, battery is charged. Even hooked up a jumper pack to make sure.
Today I read on this thread that my engine might be flooded. So I followed the advice that worked for several others and put the brake and accelerator all the way down and held down the starter button. It cranked unsuccessfully for about 10 seconds, with slowly increasing cylinder hits. Stopped and waited a few seconds. Tried it again, cranked, started sounding better this time, but still wouldn't catch and I stopped after about 10 seconds.
Tried a third time, this time it finally caught, and I kept the gas to the floor for a second or two, letting go when it got to about 2000 RPM. Despite letting my foot off the gas it continued to rev up to about 4000 RPM, then it dropped right back down to zero. This whole time it sounded awful. I tried one more time, didn't work. I stopped because I was worried about burning out the starter.
I would really appreciate any ideas you guys have
11-24-16, 05:12 PM
#2
Do you have any codes? If you were able to scan the computer and you have no codes the symptoms you're experiencing suggest bad ECU/ECM. One of the main symptoms is usually not being able to scan the computer or when scanning it shows no codes while their is an obvious problem with the car.
11-25-16, 01:00 PM
#3
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: IN
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Do you have any codes? If you were able to scan the computer and you have no codes the symptoms you're experiencing suggest bad ECU/ECM. One of the main symptoms is usually not being able to scan the computer or when scanning it shows no codes while their is an obvious problem with the car.
I was hoping that the fact that it will still fire but won't stay running would narrow the possibilities.
11-27-16, 06:07 PM
#5
Without having a code I would be just guessing. Now if you can scan it and still don't get a code I would guess your ECU has a problem. It could be a lot of things and that's why scanning it would be benificial. A decent scanner is like $22 https://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-34t5-Bluetooth-Android/dp/B005NLQAHS/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1480298508&sr=8-5&keywords=obd+ii+scanner and you can download TorquePro for $5 https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=org.prowl.torque&hl=en .
It is very easy to use and can unlock a lot of information. Even if you have to go to a mechanic and let him know what you found it helps to keep them honest (knowing that you have an idea what's wrong).
I am going to go out on a limb and guess it could be two problems here. It's either your fuel pump or your ECU has malfunctioned. You could pressure test the fuel pump to see if it is working correctly. If the fuel pump checks out then it could be your ECU. If you can't access the ECU then the problem is probably there.
Check the fuel pump first.
It is very easy to use and can unlock a lot of information. Even if you have to go to a mechanic and let him know what you found it helps to keep them honest (knowing that you have an idea what's wrong).
I am going to go out on a limb and guess it could be two problems here. It's either your fuel pump or your ECU has malfunctioned. You could pressure test the fuel pump to see if it is working correctly. If the fuel pump checks out then it could be your ECU. If you can't access the ECU then the problem is probably there.
Check the fuel pump first.
Last edited by Mrfix; 11-28-16 at 07:44 AM. Reason: Additional Information: Fuel Pump
12-08-16, 01:11 PM
#6
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: IN
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Towed the car to a shop that I've had good experiences with. They said it has a code for the crankshaft position sensor but said it looked good from a visual inspection. I told them I'd do some research and maybe source a replacement sensor.
In the meantime they're flushing the oil, doing a decarbonization treatment (I had been meaning to do this for a while, engine idles around 600 in gear and gets bumpy coming to a stop) and putting in a new battery. The technician is of the opinion that the battery will solve the problem, though I don't see how that would be the case since a fully-charged jump starter didn't make any difference. Still, my battery was on its last legs, so I needed one anyway.
Does anybody know if a bad crankshaft position sensor would explain my particular symptoms? Also, a good place to get a replacement? I hear Lexus charges ~$100 but I see them for peanuts on eBay (I don't like to buy sensitive components from eBay)
In the meantime they're flushing the oil, doing a decarbonization treatment (I had been meaning to do this for a while, engine idles around 600 in gear and gets bumpy coming to a stop) and putting in a new battery. The technician is of the opinion that the battery will solve the problem, though I don't see how that would be the case since a fully-charged jump starter didn't make any difference. Still, my battery was on its last legs, so I needed one anyway.
Does anybody know if a bad crankshaft position sensor would explain my particular symptoms? Also, a good place to get a replacement? I hear Lexus charges ~$100 but I see them for peanuts on eBay (I don't like to buy sensitive components from eBay)
12-08-16, 03:10 PM
#7
Towed the car to a shop that I've had good experiences with. They said it has a code for the crankshaft position sensor but said it looked good from a visual inspection. I told them I'd do some research and maybe source a replacement sensor.
In the meantime they're flushing the oil, doing a decarbonization treatment (I had been meaning to do this for a while, engine idles around 600 in gear and gets bumpy coming to a stop) and putting in a new battery. The technician is of the opinion that the battery will solve the problem, though I don't see how that would be the case since a fully-charged jump starter didn't make any difference. Still, my battery was on its last legs, so I needed one anyway.
Does anybody know if a bad crankshaft position sensor would explain my particular symptoms? Also, a good place to get a replacement? I hear Lexus charges ~$100 but I see them for peanuts on eBay (I don't like to buy sensitive components from eBay)
In the meantime they're flushing the oil, doing a decarbonization treatment (I had been meaning to do this for a while, engine idles around 600 in gear and gets bumpy coming to a stop) and putting in a new battery. The technician is of the opinion that the battery will solve the problem, though I don't see how that would be the case since a fully-charged jump starter didn't make any difference. Still, my battery was on its last legs, so I needed one anyway.
Does anybody know if a bad crankshaft position sensor would explain my particular symptoms? Also, a good place to get a replacement? I hear Lexus charges ~$100 but I see them for peanuts on eBay (I don't like to buy sensitive components from eBay)
http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=6276561&cc=1441482&jsn=332
Usually the car will just crank and never start. You seem to have gotten yours to start a couple of times which can also happen. The Crankshaft Position sensor keeps timing for your engine. So that is probably why it felt rough. Scanning the engine for codes typically saves a lot of guess work.
Do not try to save $20 bucks and buy some cheap one. Just get the OEM one for $50 bucks and be done with it.
By the way there is no f'n way you could tell if it is bad from a visual inspection? At least that I know of. Were they sober?
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
bthomsen
IS - 1st Gen (2001-2005)
4
04-22-13 06:24 AM
bthomsen
IS - 2nd Gen (2006-2013)
1
04-21-13 07:40 AM
