IS250 manual. Car will not start, searched everywhere.
#1
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IS250 manual. Car will not start, searched everywhere.
Hello guys, I am having problem starting my car. 2008 is250 manual. I came home a few days ago parked the car and next morning it will not start at all. SO no click, nothing. All the dash lights come on, the green light illuminates, but if i live it for at least 5h or more sitting and go try starting it will start and shut off instantly then nothing at all afterwards until i wait another 5h or overnight. what i have checked so far swapped the battery nada, jump start nada, i thought maybe starter, but no because i jumped the pins where the starter relay is and it turns the motor and also while i did that had somebody inside pushing the button and the clutch. i checked all the fuses and relays. I followed the repair manual that i have and i am at this step and not sure what to do, the manual states : " Check that Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) lights up when turning the engine switch on (IG).", did that the engine light doesnt come on. i hooked two different obd 2 readers and will not communicate to ECU i get an error. the manual also states if the check engine light doesnt come on go to MIL circuit , which i have no clue where to find in this manual or it doesnt exist. Can somebody please help if they had a similar issue before or what else i should check? thanks.
#4
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Found the issues, fuel pressure sensor. they did the gasket work about a year ago, but I see a leak there i wonder if that ruined the sensor. So i need to buy a new sensor to fix the issue. Because they won't.
#5
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Part number is 89458-30010. There is a newer part number available, 89458-30011. You will also probably want a new gasket, 90430-12026. If you plan on DIY'ing, assuming this is your problem, here's a few tips... You will need to spin the new sensor with the harness, or you will likely break the wires. I don't have the torque ranges in front of me at the moment, but I believe it was something like 58 in-lbs, more than that and you will need a new gasket. The fuel pressure sensor nut is 24mm. I got away with not having to take off the wiper cowl. The NHTSA has a tech guide for replacing the gasket if you want to use it to remove the sensor.
... Sounds like what I'm going through at the moment with my 350, did you read my post or something? lolz. I won't be able to confirm if it's the problem I'm having or not until next week, I took apart the car and and left it at my family's auto shop in Chicago. Ordered the 30010 part off eBay, so we'll see if that works. If not, it was $27 and returnable. Also, the whole OBD thing not reading seems to be something the car does when it get's kicked into safety mode. If you can get the ignition on without a check VSC light, you will be able to read the codes (which in my case, nothing popped up so the OBD wasn't helpful at all). Techstream may be able to bypass that, but I didn't have that on hand when I went through mine.
... Sounds like what I'm going through at the moment with my 350, did you read my post or something? lolz. I won't be able to confirm if it's the problem I'm having or not until next week, I took apart the car and and left it at my family's auto shop in Chicago. Ordered the 30010 part off eBay, so we'll see if that works. If not, it was $27 and returnable. Also, the whole OBD thing not reading seems to be something the car does when it get's kicked into safety mode. If you can get the ignition on without a check VSC light, you will be able to read the codes (which in my case, nothing popped up so the OBD wasn't helpful at all). Techstream may be able to bypass that, but I didn't have that on hand when I went through mine.
Last edited by Zmon; 01-10-17 at 11:50 AM.
#7
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Ye, i have done the spark plug job myself , its pretty easy. Thats what i am going to do most likely. I have .ISO file that has repair manuals that i followed the steps of disconnecting and reconnecting **** until i found that was the issue. I can try sharing that .ISO file with people so they can use it, just need to know how to do it, but no i didn't see your thread. I ordered the same part from eBay )))) 27$ and will get the gasket from Lexus. My local LEX wanted 426$ for the part they f...... crazy. The repair manual saved my ***.
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#8
Driver School Candidate
Can I get that manual or at least what to do? I'm having the same issue. I've been without a car for a week and I'm about to loose my stuff! My battery will drain in 5 minutes when driving. It's not the battery or alternator or fuses. In fact I jumped it two hours ago and just tried it and nada.
Last edited by JPowell28; 01-26-17 at 07:30 PM. Reason: Update
#9
Racer
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Can I get that manual or at least what to do? I'm having the same issue. I've been without a car for a week and I'm about to loose my stuff! My battery will drain in 5 minutes when driving. It's not the battery or alternator or fuses. In fact I jumped it two hours ago and just tried it and nada.
If you're for sure this is your problem, you need to take off the entire intake assembly off the engine (intake manifold, and the throttle body). Take a picture so you know where everything goes, and put screws into labeled cups so you know where they go. Most of the screws are 10mm heads, but there are some hex key bolts on the intake manifold that are 5mm (There is one in the back that is in a place where you'll definitely want a longer hex key as a shorter one only allows a 1/4 of a turn). You don't have to disconnect the lines from the throttle body, just take off the 10mm bolts and lay the throttle body to the side. Once that's all off, the fuel pressure sensor is right under where the throttle body used to be. You may need to disconnect the fuel line there as well (I had to anyways). Sensor needs to be removed with a pair of pliers, or a 24mm open wrench. It's shouldn't take any force at all to remove it, it's torqued fairly low (well mine was after I did the ELF recall on my 350). Tip: Spin the harness with the sensor, especially when you put the new one in or you risk damaging the wires.
Here's the NHTSA guide on how to do it. https://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/acms/c...4V647-0774.pdf Obviously if you can't get the car started, then you can't discharge the fuel pressure. I found when I took mine apart, there wasn't really any fuel pressure anyways, only had a little of it spill out when I disconnected the fuel line that was near the sensor to get it out of the way. Absolutely disconnect the battery as well. You won't need that Pando spray they say to use in the NHTSA guide. If you can't torque it in, just tighten it up similar to how tight it was when you took it off.
I can also report that the fuel pressure sensor was my problem. Replaced and car started up (on the 2nd try), driving it fine over the past week now. No fuel leaks either. Now I just need to tackle a leaking water pump.
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