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No P/S and Techstream

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Old Mar 28, 2016 | 09:54 PM
  #1  
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Default No P/S and Techstream

So I want to announce to everyone how intelligent I am.

I bought my car wrecked and fixed it up. All is well, but the alignment shop couldn't get my steering wheel straight. I know I know, "should've taken it to the dealer" (I came from a BMW forum when I had my e46). The car drives straight, but the wheel was tilted 20deg to the right when driving straight. Kinda annoying.

So I bought a key today from the stealer and programmed it myself with techstream

Then I saw the EMPS and power steering/steering angle systems..... I decided to run a torque sensor calibration test (which didn't complete, only worked half way and then failed)....and now I have no power steering and a P/S (power steering) light on my dash.

The codes are:
C1515 Torque Sensor Zero Point Adjustment Undone
C1525 Rotation Angle Sensor Initialization Undone

I ran a cable check on techstream and saw I have no K or L line support. Does the car use these lines to communicate with the EMPS/ powersteering?

Is there a special procedure with the OBD pins to reset the calibrations? I saw them for other lexus models, but not for an IS.



Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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Old Mar 29, 2016 | 01:55 PM
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Little too involved for my limited electrical knowledge on the 2IS; but couldn't it have been easier to have removed the steering wheel itself and re-aligned it?

Love how you started the post! LOL!
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Old Mar 29, 2016 | 02:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Gville350
Little too involved for my limited electrical knowledge on the 2IS; but couldn't it have been easier to have removed the steering wheel itself and re-aligned it?

Love how you started the post! LOL!
I wish it was that easy.

But typically, or at least from what I've heard, that is a no-no. You (me) would want to use the same center/steering wheel placement as it was from the factory. Theoretically, you should be able to find the bent or broken parts affecting it (offset steering wheel) and replace them to get a "true" straight/aligned steering wheel. I think there is even a notch from the factory on the steering wheel hub where it fits onto that spline to show if the steering wheel was moved or not.
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Old Mar 29, 2016 | 03:08 PM
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Originally Posted by djmogovan


]Then I saw the EMPS and power steering/steering angle systems..... I decided to run a torque sensor calibration test (which didn't complete, only worked half way and then failed)....and now I have no power steering and a P/S (power steering) light on my dash.
This happened to me as well when i installed a isf steering ecu and decided to do a calibration, it would stop half way through and then no pwr steering at all... I found that I needed to make sure the laptop was plugged into a wall outlet to insure it was getting adequate power to complete the calibration test.
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Old Mar 29, 2016 | 03:50 PM
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Originally Posted by mike33
This happened to me as well when i installed a isf steering ecu and decided to do a calibration, it would stop half way through and then no pwr steering at all... I found that I needed to make sure the laptop was plugged into a wall outlet to insure it was getting adequate power to complete the calibration test.
Did you use techstream with chinese mini VCI?
Can you please confirm your cable test with the K and L lines not working or show me if yours are working?

Thanks!
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Old Mar 29, 2016 | 05:23 PM
  #6  
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I figured it out!!!

These Russians helped me and I was able to do the manual calibration by OBD jumping. I used this procedure here:
(b) Perform sensor calibration value initialization.
(1) Align the front tires and steering wheel so that they are facing straight ahead.
(2) Turn the engine switch off.
3) Using SST, connect terminals 12 (TS) and 4 (CG) of the DLC3, turn the engine switch on (IG) and connect and disconnect terminals 13 (TC) and 4 (CG) of the DLC3 20 times or more within 20 seconds.

4) Check that the power steering warning light turns on.
HINT: DTCs C1515/15 and C1525/17 are stored.
(5) Turn the engine switch off.
  • NOTICE: If the engine switch is left on (IG) after performing sensor calibration value initialization, motor rotation angle sensor output calibration and torque sensor zero point calibration cannot be performed.
c) Perform motor rotation angle sensor output calibration.
  • NOTICE: If DTC C1525/17 (Rotation Angle Sensor Initialization Undone) is not stored, motor rotation angle sensor output calibration cannot be performed. Therefore, be sure to perform sensor calibration value initialization before performing motor rotation angle sensor output calibration.
HINT: Motor rotation angle sensor output calibration calibrates the output values of the motor rotation angle sensor and torque sensor.
(1) Align the front tires and steering wheel so that they are facing straight ahead.
(2) Turn the engine switch off.
(3) Using SST, connect terminals 12 (TS) and 4 (CG) of the DLC3, and then turn the engine switch on (IG).
HINT: If DTC C1525/17 is present when test mode starts, the system automatically switches to motor rotation angle sensor output calibration mode.
(4) Turn the steering wheel 45° or more to the left and right.
NOTICE: After turning the engine switch on (IG), wait 2.5 seconds or more before turning the steering wheel in order to allow the sensor voltage to stabilize. Do not turn the steering wheel quickly.
(d) Perform torque sensor zero point calibration.
  • NOTICE:
    • If DTC C1525/17 (Rotation Angle Sensor Initialization Undone) is stored, torque sensor zero point calibration cannot be performed. Therefore, be sure to perform motor rotation angle sensor output calibration before performing torque sensor zero point calibration.
    • If DTC C1515/15 (Torque Sensor Zero Point Adjustment Undone) is not stored, torque sensor zero point calibration cannot be performed. Therefore, be sure to perform sensor calibration value initialization before performing torque sensor zero point calibration.

(1) Align the front tires and steering wheel so that they are facing straight ahead.
(2) Turn the engine switch off.
(3) Using SST, connect terminals 12 (TS) and 4 (CG) of the DLC3, turn the engine switch on (IG) and connect terminals 13 (TC) and 4 (CG) of the DLC3.
NOTICE: The steering wheel will vibrate during calibration. Do not touch the steering wheel while it is vibrating, and wait at least 2 seconds after the steering wheel stops vibrating before touching it.
  • HINT:
    • If the calibration is completed successfully, the power steering warning light changes from being constantly illuminated to blinking at a frequency of 4 Hz (repeating a pattern of being on for 0.125 seconds, and then off for 0.125 seconds).
    • If the calibration is not completed successfully, the power steering warning light remains illuminated.
    • If the calibration is not completed successfully, check for DTCs.

(4) Disconnect terminals 12 (TS) and 4 (CG), and 13 (TC) and 4 (CG) of the DLC3, and then turn the engine switch off to switch the system from test mode to normal mode.
Credit to this site:
http://alflash.com.ua/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=248


hopefully this will help someone else later on
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Old Mar 30, 2016 | 01:44 PM
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Wow! Now that's quite the process!
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Old Mar 31, 2016 | 09:09 AM
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Leave it to the Russians! That's an awesome set of instructions, MacGyver approves!
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Old Sep 4, 2017 | 04:12 AM
  #9  
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Default The method from Russia really works

The method worked fine on my IS250.

I used the Mini Vci from Xhorse but that did not work. You can use it to start the calibration process and get the C1515 and C1525 codes but then you get an error from Techstream saying "communication lost" all the time.
But then the Russian method works connecting 4 and 12 then 4,12 and 13.

Make sure to connect the correct pins in the OBD/DLC3 connector. The figure illustrated the female connector in the car.
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Old Sep 4, 2017 | 09:56 AM
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As stated the wheels splined shaft does not allow install from any other angle as that would leave an unequal amount of turns from centered to each left and right full lock in the rack. In addition the physical gear mesh of the rack and pinion gear set is machined having limited to no free play while dead center for driving straight otherwise the driver would feel this free play. In corner there is side loading and once off center a little free play is not detectable by the driver.

Not to mention that if the wheel is installed off center then the rack would attempt to oversteer the suspension stops in one direction and not steer as sharp the other...

Impressive write up. Glad it works!
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Old Nov 14, 2017 | 04:12 AM
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Am I getting it right while performing sensor adjustment you have conected pins 4 12 and 4 13 at the same time??
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Old Sep 6, 2022 | 02:36 PM
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Originally Posted by djmogovan
I figured it out!!!

These Russians helped me and I was able to do the manual calibration by OBD jumping. I used this procedure here:


Credit to this site:
http://alflash.com.ua/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=248


hopefully this will help someone else later on
thanks man u save me i was thinking to change ECU but this progress cost me nothing it’s work perfectly 🌹
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Old Sep 6, 2022 | 11:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Karl86
Am I getting it right while performing sensor adjustment you have conected pins 4 12 and 4 13 at the same time??
can anyone answer this?
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Old Sep 7, 2022 | 07:46 AM
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When you get an error from Techstream and your steering wheel ceased working properly (very stiff). All you need to do is repeat the process until it completes successfully.

Fair warning : The Techstream process above will not make your steering wheel align straight to the wheel not matter how many times you do it. (Ask me how I know LOL).

Provided that your wheels are properly aligned and just the steering wheel crooked, you need to manually adjust the tire rods.

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Old Sep 7, 2022 | 05:25 PM
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Originally Posted by MrHarris
can anyone answer this?
yes u must do that because as what I understand that jumper from 4 to 12 enter to test mode and from 4 to 13 calibrations steering power
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