Ya, that's a mechanical process done when setting the toe. However, if toe is good, you can loosen the jamb nuts, boot clamps, and rotate both inboard tie rods an equal amount in opposite directions to straighten the wheel.

Just don't screw up or your tires will hate you! A tape measure, if used properly can be a sanity check. Back the car up 15 feet or so, hold the wheel straight, pull forward and measure from equal tread locations side to side without hitting the undercarriage. If the difference front to back is zero, tighten it up and test drive. It's crude but you'll know if its way off (mistakes made).

Besides, the alignment shop numbers are just starting points for everyone. Depending on highway use, city use, grocery getter, toe and pressure need set to HOW THE CAR IS USED, not an absolute spec applied to 'on average, this works on most cars and tires' number which has little to do with how the car is used.

 

I'm a little concern about the cons of doing this but twice already been to Lexus for alignment and kept reminding them to make the steering wheel straight - but got ignored. They always say the words "it's within specs" like seriously more than 10 degrees on the left is within specs?

 

If the thrust line in the rear is good, they should have been able to fix it. If you have a good ruler ot pair of veneer calipers, it's hard to screw up.

Make Sharpie mark past the threads an equal amount measuring from the edge of the outer tie rod end by the nut to the inner shaft past the threads of the inner tie rod.
Verify your measurement is repeatable, lets call it 50mm both sides.

Let's say your wheel is downisn't the right, you shorten the left and lengthen the right an equal amount. Because you made marks, you can measure it. Left 55mm, right 65mm. It's hard to screw up if you have basic skills.

Mind you, one side has left hand threads. Keep that in mind.