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Mark Levinson SUB replacement DIY

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Old Dec 9, 2013 | 08:49 AM
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Default Mark Levinson SUB replacement DIY

As many of you know, the stock subwoofer in the ML system in the IS, well it is subpar at best. I own a small used car dealership/auto repair shop. Since the factory sub in my IS was totally inoperable, we decided to test the Pioneer TS-SW841D 500 Watts 8" Single 4 Ohm Shallow Mount Subwoofer. We did not modify the factory system or wiring, just took out the rear deck, added some speaker foam and drilled the new sub on top of the rear metal plate where the previous subwoofer was installed. The rear speaker cover fits over this sub with no modification! The sound system is 100x better than before! It has been in there for a month, but I warn you that you need to insulate the rear panel from the window glass, since the bass is so much stronger! I only paid $70 for the sub. Anyone else tried this?
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Old Dec 9, 2013 | 09:42 AM
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This is the first I've seen about anything that fits into the OEM sub space!

Could you post some pictures?
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Old Dec 9, 2013 | 09:45 AM
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Very interested. Pics and a little guidance would be a big plus! Do you know if this will work on the non-ML systems?
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Old Dec 9, 2013 | 09:48 AM
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I think one of the guys at the shop took some pics, I will check. We are going to start doing this for customers on their IS models. If you take some speaker foam and cover the hole where the original sub goes, you will need a drill with some long screws (3.5"). We marked the holes, drilled some screw holes, and bolted the sub in tight. Put the deck back in with some insulation around the rear window, and the system is looking to work very well, in the last month it has worked awesome, no issues at all yet.
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Old Dec 9, 2013 | 10:26 AM
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Originally Posted by stoked
I think one of the guys at the shop took some pics, I will check. We are going to start doing this for customers on their IS models. If you take some speaker foam and cover the hole where the original sub goes, you will need a drill with some long screws (3.5"). We marked the holes, drilled some screw holes, and bolted the sub in tight. Put the deck back in with some insulation around the rear window, and the system is looking to work very well, in the last month it has worked awesome, no issues at all yet.
Thanks, looking forward to the pics. Mainly curious to see if the ML connection to the sub is the same as the non-ML. If so, then this would benefit many of the members here who do not want to do anything too extreme or custom.
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Old Dec 9, 2013 | 01:37 PM
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Yes pics would be awesome please. Very curious to see if this would work for non-ml systems as well...
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Old Dec 10, 2013 | 12:27 AM
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i would also be interested in this!
IN!
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Old Dec 10, 2013 | 02:49 AM
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Originally Posted by pmanliu
Thanks, looking forward to the pics. Mainly curious to see if the ML connection to the sub is the same as the non-ML. If so, then this would benefit many of the members here who do not want to do anything too extreme or custom.
I second this, I don't know many IS owners that have the ML option. I for one have the regular sound system and would love a little more bass
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Old Dec 10, 2013 | 06:50 AM
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I guess to get the ball rolling and also to help the OP out, we can provide a picture of the non-ML sub connection? I can try to get to it this weekend unless someone else has one handy or is available sooner.

Can someone with a ML sub provide a picture of their connection? If the two look similar, then we are one step closer to mo bass :-)
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Old Dec 10, 2013 | 07:09 AM
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I only have an IS with the ML system, but it appears that the connection/harness on the non-ML system is the same. Keep in mind this sub appears to have a mini amp in the sub, so that is why you don't need an external amp. The connection we made was using the stock harness disconnected from the ML sub, ran the new speaker wires between the harness and the new sub.
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Old Dec 13, 2013 | 04:18 PM
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bumping this thread for any new updates

I am a complete audiophile/wiring noob, but if i replaced my stock sub with the one the OP has, will I have to install a separate bass **** or will it work perfectly with the factory head-unit?
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Old Dec 15, 2013 | 10:54 PM
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Originally Posted by edgeucated
bumping this thread for any new updates

I am a complete audiophile/wiring noob, but if i replaced my stock sub with the one the OP has, will I have to install a separate bass **** or will it work perfectly with the factory head-unit?
SO my experience with it has been that depending on the audio source, you have to make adjustments to the bass, or it will shatter your rear window. On XM, the bass about half way gives it a good bump. FM radio it is about the same, but using a CD or AUX, you really have to turn the bass down. I did not install a separate controller for bass control, it totally works using the head unit. I don't know why this wouldn't work with a non-ml sub. Just make sure you insulate the rear deck metal from the subwoofer using speaker foam/non conducting foam.
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Old Dec 16, 2013 | 12:09 AM
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my sub has same issue . Pics please
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Old Dec 16, 2013 | 06:08 AM
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Shatter rear window? Dang the sub is that strong? Sorry I haven't tinkered much with audio related stuff in general, so idk if its the bass or the sub physically hitting the window that will shatter it...
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Old Jan 10, 2014 | 12:38 AM
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no pics yet? lol
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