60k price quote
04-24-10, 06:48 AM
#46
I'm going to run the plugs a lil bit longer (maybe 80K) and recheck. My wife hardly ever punches it or drives hard. I've pulled the plugs out and they look like a 20K mile plug. Even the brake fluid still clear on the reservoir. I will however change the diff with royal purple 75W90 and cabin filters. My engine filter is a K&N so I will just recharge it as normal. Her gas mileage still consistent since we bought it.
04-24-10, 08:29 AM
#47
I'm going to run the plugs a lil bit longer (maybe 80K) and recheck. My wife hardly ever punches it or drives hard. I've pulled the plugs out and they look like a 20K mile plug. Even the brake fluid still clear on the reservoir. I will however change the diff with royal purple 75W90 and cabin filters. My engine filter is a K&N so I will just recharge it as normal. Her gas mileage still consistent since we bought it.
You never change it according to Lexus scheduled maintenance. (though unlike the transmission fluid at least it's physically possible to change it)
(and I haven't really heard anyone give a good reason why you should change the diff fluid in this car, especially since it's not a real LSD)
The brake fluid should be changed every 2 years regardless of mileage (or color) as water gets into the fluid over time regardless of how much you drive it, lowering the boiling point of the fluid.... I know most folks don't, but they ought to.
04-27-10, 05:35 PM
#49
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Ok....I am loving this fun ongoing arguement on who knows the most....and if you did know, an O2 sensor sits behind the catalytic converter to read how well the cat functions (thats what it tells the ECM), an A/F sensor that sits in front of the cat reads the mix coming out of the engine....dont' tell me how engines work because I used to build them, just not this engine....but that is not the point, or the answer to my question.
The posts about the stratified mixture is confusing...if a spark plug is at the top of the combustion chamber, and the piston head is at the bottom, how can both sites be a richer mixture and be lean at the same time? TIS says nothing about running a lean mix, it only states keeping the a/f mix at Stoichiometric 14.7:1...and if the tech post stated that it was lean to 15:1, that is really not much to call it a lean mix...
Anybody that knows how to build and design engines knows that under a full load, you want a richer mix for a short time in the beginning of a powerband and then it should lean out to 14.7:1....I have seen engines blow up on a dyno due to running too lean on a run, and I am sure Lexus doesn't want that to happen either....so again, what is this lean mix???
The posts about the stratified mixture is confusing...if a spark plug is at the top of the combustion chamber, and the piston head is at the bottom, how can both sites be a richer mixture and be lean at the same time? TIS says nothing about running a lean mix, it only states keeping the a/f mix at Stoichiometric 14.7:1...and if the tech post stated that it was lean to 15:1, that is really not much to call it a lean mix...
Anybody that knows how to build and design engines knows that under a full load, you want a richer mix for a short time in the beginning of a powerband and then it should lean out to 14.7:1....I have seen engines blow up on a dyno due to running too lean on a run, and I am sure Lexus doesn't want that to happen either....so again, what is this lean mix???
Anyone who's ever tuned an engine to survive a race knows NA engines run no leaner than 13.2:1 on gasoline, and boosted engines run no leaner than 12.4:1 at WOT. I have no idea what you're trying to say about AFR except maybe you're thinking of the old days when we had accelerator pumps on carburetors to shoot a squirt of fuel in the manifold so the engine wouldn't starve. I also have a LOT of experience tuning carburetors from my motorcycle road racing days.
To get back to the lean mix, you missed the entire SAE article on the 2GR-FSE. Read. Learn. Ask questions.
05-25-10, 10:28 AM
#52
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i just went in to get the same price quote, to get only the essentials done is only about $720 but thats still a little over charged if you ask me... but with all the options my quote was also around the $1200 range
06-07-10, 09:58 PM
#54
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So I'm getting close to 60K.
Are these the essential 3 maintenance I need to do? I think I can probably get all of these done for around $300 from a trusted mechanic.
Spark Plugs
Brake Fluid change
Oil Change
Are these the essential 3 maintenance I need to do? I think I can probably get all of these done for around $300 from a trusted mechanic.
Spark Plugs
Brake Fluid change
Oil Change
06-08-10, 12:06 PM
#56
Same for a BMW "Inspection II" ($1200) at 60k and 120k. This is to change oil, oil filter, air filter, cabin filters, plugs, brake fluid and coolant. They also say to remove brake pads to inspect pads and rotors but I don't think they do this. You gotta pay to play if you want to play with the dealers.
I never ask for a 60k service - I just ask them to change the specific items that need changing. Costs me less than 1/2 the mileage-based "service" cost. And they check all those other things, anyway, to try and find something (anything!) else to charge you for!
I never ask for a 60k service - I just ask them to change the specific items that need changing. Costs me less than 1/2 the mileage-based "service" cost. And they check all those other things, anyway, to try and find something (anything!) else to charge you for!
06-09-10, 04:56 PM
#58
http://is.sewellparts.com/accessorie...-2008-119.html
06-09-10, 05:19 PM
#59
I remember paying for the 60K maintenance on my 97 Corolla. I ended up being a laughing stock... it cost me 500 bucks. But that was early in my college days and I actually believed I had to refill my headlight fluid. 
Nowadays, I do everything myself and avoid the stealership. 500 bucks was the price I paid for a lifetime of experience. Lexus charges like $150+ per hour of labor, So prepare to grab your ankles if you want dealer to do maintenance or repair work for you.
If you don't know what is required to be serviced under 60K ask them and use that as a check list of what can be done at the local mechanics. They'll charge cheaper... and again make sure the shop is reliable
Nowadays, I do everything myself and avoid the stealership. 500 bucks was the price I paid for a lifetime of experience. Lexus charges like $150+ per hour of labor, So prepare to grab your ankles if you want dealer to do maintenance or repair work for you.
If you don't know what is required to be serviced under 60K ask them and use that as a check list of what can be done at the local mechanics. They'll charge cheaper... and again make sure the shop is reliable
06-09-10, 08:14 PM
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