Factory Alignment Specs for 2009 IS250?
02-02-10, 06:48 PM
#2
Tech Info Resource
iTrader: (2)
Here's what you need to know:
02-25-18, 12:27 AM
#5
So getting an alignment to the AWD specs exact as follows.
Front camber L/R 83 degrees ea.
Front toe in L/R .02 ea.
Rear toe in L/R .06 ea.
Will this give me decent handling for spirited driving/ street use?
I found a mom&pop shop with a hunter alignment rack. Went in and told the tech I wanted zero toe up front. After my new tires got installed. To my surprise he did it while me standing there. Since I'm learning how the alignment stuff works. I'm wondering. If I give him those specs can he hit them? Give or take .08 on the specs. I need to go back Monday morning after just installing all new front end components. Upper Arms, Lower ball joints, and outer tie rods. I find with zero toe the car feels less responsive. Also to mention I do have RR LCA bushing, F sport sway bars, and chassis brace. Any input would be helpful before then.
Mike
Front camber L/R 83 degrees ea.
Front toe in L/R .02 ea.
Rear toe in L/R .06 ea.
Will this give me decent handling for spirited driving/ street use?
I found a mom&pop shop with a hunter alignment rack. Went in and told the tech I wanted zero toe up front. After my new tires got installed. To my surprise he did it while me standing there. Since I'm learning how the alignment stuff works. I'm wondering. If I give him those specs can he hit them? Give or take .08 on the specs. I need to go back Monday morning after just installing all new front end components. Upper Arms, Lower ball joints, and outer tie rods. I find with zero toe the car feels less responsive. Also to mention I do have RR LCA bushing, F sport sway bars, and chassis brace. Any input would be helpful before then.
Mike
02-26-18, 09:38 AM
#6
^ No not really.
First of all camber isn't adjustable, so you aren't going to get that exact. You get what you get, if you don't like it you can add aftermarket parts to get adjustability, or fudge with the sub-frame mounting. The factory alignment spec just gives you a range of values that you can expect to get if everything is in working order. Second of all, you do NOT want positive camber if you want the car to handle well, you want about 1 degree of negative camber in the front and .5 degrees of negative camber in the rear.
For the toe are you wanting .02/.06 total inches of toe out? .02/.06 ea. doesn't make any sense.
Toe out on the front will help reduce understeer and increase turn-in response. Toe in on the front will increase straight-line stability. .02" probably won't do enough to make a noticeable difference. Somewhere in the range of .05" is about the sweet spot for a daily driver. More isn't necessarily better, if you get into the range of above .15" toe out you'll wear out your tires in short order and make the car twitchy in a straight line. Above .15" toe in will wear out tires and make the car not want to turn in.
You probably don't want rear toe out. A little rear toe in can help on-throttle corner stability, but IMO it isn't really worth it for a daily driver. I like the rear right at 0.
First of all camber isn't adjustable, so you aren't going to get that exact. You get what you get, if you don't like it you can add aftermarket parts to get adjustability, or fudge with the sub-frame mounting. The factory alignment spec just gives you a range of values that you can expect to get if everything is in working order. Second of all, you do NOT want positive camber if you want the car to handle well, you want about 1 degree of negative camber in the front and .5 degrees of negative camber in the rear.
For the toe are you wanting .02/.06 total inches of toe out? .02/.06 ea. doesn't make any sense.
Toe out on the front will help reduce understeer and increase turn-in response. Toe in on the front will increase straight-line stability. .02" probably won't do enough to make a noticeable difference. Somewhere in the range of .05" is about the sweet spot for a daily driver. More isn't necessarily better, if you get into the range of above .15" toe out you'll wear out your tires in short order and make the car twitchy in a straight line. Above .15" toe in will wear out tires and make the car not want to turn in.
You probably don't want rear toe out. A little rear toe in can help on-throttle corner stability, but IMO it isn't really worth it for a daily driver. I like the rear right at 0.
The following users liked this post:
MikeFig82 (02-26-18)
02-26-18, 10:03 AM
#7
^ No not really.
First of all camber isn't adjustable, so you aren't going to get that exact. You get what you get, if you don't like it you can add aftermarket parts to get adjustability, or fudge with the sub-frame mounting. The factory alignment spec just gives you a range of values that you can expect to get if everything is in working order. Second of all, you do NOT want positive camber if you want the car to handle well, you want about 1 degree of negative camber in the front and .5 degrees of negative camber in the rear.
For the toe are you wanting .02/.06 total inches of toe out? .02/.06 ea. doesn't make any sense.
Toe out on the front will help reduce understeer and increase turn-in response. Toe in on the front will increase straight-line stability. .02" probably won't do enough to make a noticeable difference. Somewhere in the range of .05" is about the sweet spot for a daily driver. More isn't necessarily better, if you get into the range of above .15" toe out you'll wear out your tires in short order and make the car twitchy in a straight line. Above .15" toe in will wear out tires and make the car not want to turn in.
You probably don't want rear toe out. A little rear toe in can help on-throttle corner stability, but IMO it isn't really worth it for a daily driver. I like the rear right at 0.
First of all camber isn't adjustable, so you aren't going to get that exact. You get what you get, if you don't like it you can add aftermarket parts to get adjustability, or fudge with the sub-frame mounting. The factory alignment spec just gives you a range of values that you can expect to get if everything is in working order. Second of all, you do NOT want positive camber if you want the car to handle well, you want about 1 degree of negative camber in the front and .5 degrees of negative camber in the rear.
For the toe are you wanting .02/.06 total inches of toe out? .02/.06 ea. doesn't make any sense.
Toe out on the front will help reduce understeer and increase turn-in response. Toe in on the front will increase straight-line stability. .02" probably won't do enough to make a noticeable difference. Somewhere in the range of .05" is about the sweet spot for a daily driver. More isn't necessarily better, if you get into the range of above .15" toe out you'll wear out your tires in short order and make the car twitchy in a straight line. Above .15" toe in will wear out tires and make the car not want to turn in.
You probably don't want rear toe out. A little rear toe in can help on-throttle corner stability, but IMO it isn't really worth it for a daily driver. I like the rear right at 0.
Trending Topics
02-27-18, 08:42 AM
#8
As you keep an eye on your tires edges, keep in mind that minor adjustments to toe and air pressure may be needed for your style, loading, and setup and you can extend the life of your tires.
Example: too much air pressure in the rear, you blow the center out of your tires in 10,000 mi.
Too little PSI in the front and you equally destroy the outer edges. Adding to this last one, too little pressure AND negative camber and you see the inner edge wear more than the outer. So a tiny bit of additional toe in will preserve those inner edges. We are talking DD here, not a track car.
Back to my statement; keep an eye on the whole surface and adjust as needed from your *known starting point* and you can get good mileage from those tires.
Maintain the same pressure to get a sense of tire wear. The right pressure for *your application* may be different than grocery mom doing errands all day vs freeway car.
Example: too much air pressure in the rear, you blow the center out of your tires in 10,000 mi.
Too little PSI in the front and you equally destroy the outer edges. Adding to this last one, too little pressure AND negative camber and you see the inner edge wear more than the outer. So a tiny bit of additional toe in will preserve those inner edges. We are talking DD here, not a track car.
Back to my statement; keep an eye on the whole surface and adjust as needed from your *known starting point* and you can get good mileage from those tires.
Maintain the same pressure to get a sense of tire wear. The right pressure for *your application* may be different than grocery mom doing errands all day vs freeway car.
The following users liked this post:
MikeFig82 (02-27-18)
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
seanmwple
IS - 2nd Gen (2006-2013)
10
10-10-17 08:18 AM
