Wanting to install sub+amp using factory head unit, HELP!
I did the same thing...I added subs and an amp to my factory head unit and it really sounds great. I had them use an audio controal LC6i...
http://www.mobileaudiocontrol.com/de...17612&l1=17612
This is something you really need to bypass your factory amp.
http://www.mobileaudiocontrol.com/de...17612&l1=17612
This is something you really need to bypass your factory amp.
Cool..thanks.
So you just tap into it without disconnecting it? I want to disconnect it and just use one sub because it does sound funny when both subs hit. How would you do this? Thanks.
Don't splice. Cut and connect, that will disable the factory sub. If you splice, they will both hit.
so I tried getting to the stock sub without success.. how would u get to the stock sub so I can disconnect it.. all I would do is cut it right?
Also, what wires would you cut? The Brown and Lt. Green? or the Pink and Lt. Blue?
Also, what wires would you cut? The Brown and Lt. Green? or the Pink and Lt. Blue?
Last edited by dat-is350; Apr 23, 2007 at 04:55 PM.
Driver
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 110
Likes: 0
From: TX
I wouldn't do any cutting. Get wire tap-in's and tap into the sub wires according to the following color coding.......
brown (+)
light green (-)
pink (+)
sky blue (-)
In order to get to the sub, you need to remove the rear seats, the rear scuff plates, the side molding (from the scuff plate to the side air bag), the side air bag panels, and finally the rear deck.
brown (+)
light green (-)
pink (+)
sky blue (-)
In order to get to the sub, you need to remove the rear seats, the rear scuff plates, the side molding (from the scuff plate to the side air bag), the side air bag panels, and finally the rear deck.
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I wouldn't do any cutting. Get wire tap-in's and tap into the sub wires according to the following color coding.......
brown (+)
light green (-)
pink (+)
sky blue (-)
In order to get to the sub, you need to remove the rear seats, the rear scuff plates, the side molding (from the scuff plate to the side air bag), the side air bag panels, and finally the rear deck.
brown (+)
light green (-)
pink (+)
sky blue (-)
In order to get to the sub, you need to remove the rear seats, the rear scuff plates, the side molding (from the scuff plate to the side air bag), the side air bag panels, and finally the rear deck.
but i want to disconnect the stock sub, so If i tap into the sub wires that would not disable it.
Thread Starter
Driver School Candidate
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 30
Likes: 0
From: KY
I wouldn't do any cutting. Get wire tap-in's and tap into the sub wires according to the following color coding.......
brown (+)
light green (-)
pink (+)
sky blue (-)
In order to get to the sub, you need to remove the rear seats, the rear scuff plates, the side molding (from the scuff plate to the side air bag), the side air bag panels, and finally the rear deck.
brown (+)
light green (-)
pink (+)
sky blue (-)
In order to get to the sub, you need to remove the rear seats, the rear scuff plates, the side molding (from the scuff plate to the side air bag), the side air bag panels, and finally the rear deck.
Thread Starter
Driver School Candidate
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 30
Likes: 0
From: KY
I did the same thing...I added subs and an amp to my factory head unit and it really sounds great. I had them use an audio controal LC6i...
http://www.mobileaudiocontrol.com/de...17612&l1=17612
This is something you really need to bypass your factory amp.
http://www.mobileaudiocontrol.com/de...17612&l1=17612
This is something you really need to bypass your factory amp.
Driver
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 110
Likes: 0
From: TX
One word of advice. You might want to plan on testing the aftermarket sub while everything is still disassembled, but put the rear deck back on. This way you can find out where the rattles are and fix it right then and there. I didn't test my sub until I had reassembled everything, and I am not looking forward to gutting it out again to fix the rattles.
Rookie
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 61
Likes: 0
From: ut
When you say "disconnect", do you mean disconnecting the sub harness, or removing the sub altogether? Either case, to get to the harness or the sub, you have to remove the rear deck. What I did was disconnect the harness, unscrewed the sub and took it out, and then tapped into the harness.
One word of advice. You might want to plan on testing the aftermarket sub while everything is still disassembled, but put the rear deck back on. This way you can find out where the rattles are and fix it right then and there. I didn't test my sub until I had reassembled everything, and I am not looking forward to gutting it out again to fix the rattles.
One word of advice. You might want to plan on testing the aftermarket sub while everything is still disassembled, but put the rear deck back on. This way you can find out where the rattles are and fix it right then and there. I didn't test my sub until I had reassembled everything, and I am not looking forward to gutting it out again to fix the rattles.
Rookie
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 61
Likes: 0
From: ut
One word of advice. You might want to plan on testing the aftermarket sub while everything is still disassembled, but put the rear deck back on. This way you can find out where the rattles are and fix it right then and there. I didn't test my sub until I had reassembled everything, and I am not looking forward to gutting it out again to fix the rattles.[/QUOTE]
++2 I made the same mistake only I also installed the line drop and everything under the rear deck so now I can't adjust the output on the Line drop only the amp.. and like he said that rear deck sucks.....
I will try and take some pics tomorrow when I get home so you can see somewhat how I hooked everything up, except for the stuff under the rear deck because I am not in the mood to tear that apart......
Oh yeah I tapped into the Pink and Lt blue one that was plugged into the factory sub, also when your tearing your car apart, all I took out was the rear seat which was easy then I was able to get the rear deck up far enough to access all the wires and factory sub plug, and also mount my line drop and stuff. So you shouldn't have to take as much apart as was stated above.IMO.
++2 I made the same mistake only I also installed the line drop and everything under the rear deck so now I can't adjust the output on the Line drop only the amp.. and like he said that rear deck sucks.....
I will try and take some pics tomorrow when I get home so you can see somewhat how I hooked everything up, except for the stuff under the rear deck because I am not in the mood to tear that apart......Oh yeah I tapped into the Pink and Lt blue one that was plugged into the factory sub, also when your tearing your car apart, all I took out was the rear seat which was easy then I was able to get the rear deck up far enough to access all the wires and factory sub plug, and also mount my line drop and stuff. So you shouldn't have to take as much apart as was stated above.IMO.
Last edited by 06-250; Apr 24, 2007 at 07:24 PM.