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IS - 2nd Gen (2006-2013) Discussion about the 2006+ model IS models

Installing OEM spoiler on IS---Easy?

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Old Feb 22, 2007 | 11:05 PM
  #16  
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if you drill holes there isn't anyway to turn back!
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Old Feb 22, 2007 | 11:10 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by ISbb
All I did is drive to a bodykit shop and ask them to do it! They did my front lip too all together they charge me 20$ haha...they only use 3m tape and a hair dryer...

Hey ISBB, what lip are u using on your ride. Looks pimp.
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Old Feb 23, 2007 | 12:43 AM
  #18  
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i did mine in 40 mins last week. bought it on ebay for 200 shipped too
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Old Feb 23, 2007 | 07:27 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by ldc
Damnn you actually have to drill? You know that overtime rust will settle in around the bolt/hole...unless you get it rust treated after you drill the hole.
My dealer rust proofed the holes after they were drilled in the trunk lid. The underside of the rear spoiler comes with pads at the bottom of the bolts that mounts onto the trunk. That means once the spoiler is installed, the pads acts as a seal to prevent dust/moisture to enter into the inner lining of the trunk lid thru the holes.

This is an OEM trunk spoiler after all, and if the instructions says to drill holes and mount them that way, that means the design of the spoiler will include parts that has taken into considerations everything to prevent rusting/damage to the car.

Originally Posted by ISbb
if you drill holes there isn't anyway to turn back!
Yes, which is just part of life - if you are not sure you want it, don't do it! I have no problem with mine because both the front lip and rear spoiler are OEM parts, so when I sell the car, i'll just sell it with them on and it won't devalue my car. It would be a different story if I used non-OEM parts

Last edited by neova; Feb 23, 2007 at 07:30 AM.
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Old Feb 23, 2007 | 12:45 PM
  #20  
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drilling holes in your car sucks. I am telling you along with a ****load of other people on here that the tape is fine. It's a freaking 2min install at tops compared to 30min with drilling (lining up that stupid stencil). the freaking instructions for that method were 6 pages.

right or wrong whatever. I don't want to drill holes in my car. There is no way to back out of that. Also i had my car at 140mph , thru snow, sleet, rain, heat.. all sorts of weather and it's fine.
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Old Feb 23, 2007 | 01:36 PM
  #21  
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I have both the OEM rear spoiler and front air dam. I installed both myself and chose not to drill. The front air dam isn't going anywhere, since it is firmly secured by 9 screws (why would anyone want to remove the front bumper to drill ?). As for the rear spoiler, it is literally a 5 min install should you forgo the drilling - the toughest part is to dremel off the 3 screws, or you can grind them off if you have a grinder. The OEM tape is more than adequate to hold the spoiler on, and you can always use more 3m tape if you want to be overly cautious. I've read enough horror stories on this forum about incompetent dealer techs that drilled the trunk and f'd up the spoiler install - NO Thank you, those holes are permanent and I don't need gaps or an uneven install . . .
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Old Feb 23, 2007 | 02:08 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by neova
My dealer rust proofed the holes after they were drilled in the trunk lid. The underside of the rear spoiler comes with pads at the bottom of the bolts that mounts onto the trunk. That means once the spoiler is installed, the pads acts as a seal to prevent dust/moisture to enter into the inner lining of the trunk lid thru the holes.

This is an OEM trunk spoiler after all, and if the instructions says to drill holes and mount them that way, that means the design of the spoiler will include parts that has taken into considerations everything to prevent rusting/damage to the car.



Yes, which is just part of life - if you are not sure you want it, don't do it! I have no problem with mine because both the front lip and rear spoiler are OEM parts, so when I sell the car, i'll just sell it with them on and it won't devalue my car. It would be a different story if I used non-OEM parts

i could not have said this better. i followed the oem instructions it came with. i drilled cause hey, they said so.

sure you can just use 3m, i aint knockin anyone who did or didnt drill.. but yah, the holes arent that bad i mean, do you ever plan on removing the spoiler in the future? if so, why get the spoiler in the first place. hehe just my 2cents that really no one cares about.
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Old Feb 23, 2007 | 04:30 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by racinghart
i could not have said this better. i followed the oem instructions it came with. i drilled cause hey, they said so.

sure you can just use 3m, i aint knockin anyone who did or didnt drill.. but yah, the holes arent that bad i mean, do you ever plan on removing the spoiler in the future? if so, why get the spoiler in the first place. hehe just my 2cents that really no one cares about.
i would only remove my oem spoiler if i found another one that looks better~
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Old Feb 23, 2007 | 07:39 PM
  #24  
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Why wouldn't you first try to do it the just the 3m tape and then eventually if you like it do the drill method. It makes sence to me to do it this way.
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Old Mar 10, 2008 | 04:23 PM
  #25  
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so how about removing the oEM and replacing it with CF? Like the ones from ebay..anyone done that yet? Thats what I wanted to do....I have a buyer for mine.
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Old Mar 10, 2008 | 05:51 PM
  #26  
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i only taped mine also, the wing is so light i really doubt it's gonna go anywhere. but your car you can do whatever you want with it
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Old Mar 10, 2008 | 08:00 PM
  #27  
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Seriously, it's your car do what works for you. For me, I had it drilled and am happy with it. I probably could've taped it on and been happy with that too.
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Old Apr 9, 2008 | 08:31 PM
  #28  
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do you go to a dealer to get this installed or a Lexus body shop?
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