stock sub
02-08-07, 02:14 PM
#17
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I think it sounds awesome....I still want more of course but if anyone has ever heard the sound system in the WRX ....yea thats a horrible sound system ..not comparable to a Lexus as far as quality but I think we are forgetting what crappy really does sound like
02-08-07, 08:16 PM
#19
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I was the one who posted the pictures and Im pretty sure when I was messing around with it my hand strayed the sub and it definately felt like paper reinforced with something. It was very firm not filmsy or anything obviously.
02-09-07, 02:04 PM
#20
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You could replace it, but it wouldn't sound any better... in fact, it might sound worse. Reason why is the factory amp only pushes enough wattage to power the stock sub... an aftermarket sub will have a bigger magnet and require more juice. If you hooked up an aftermarket sub to the factory system, once you crank the volume, the sub would bottom out from being underpowered.
If you only wanted to replace the sub without changing the factory stereo/amp... you could add an aftermarket amplifier by connecting it to the existing sub wiring connecting into the "high-level" inputs on the amp. What this will do is take the already amplified signal from the factory system, drop the signal down, and re-amplify it before sending it to the new aftermarket sub. Some people don't like this method because they say it adds distortion to the music.
I had installed stereo systems for a number of years (I don't anymore), but in my opinion, we are talking about a subwoofer here that produces the lowest frequencies. You would never notice this minimal distortion. Even using the same application on a tweeter or midrange speaker, the THD (total harmonic distortion) would be so minimal, that it cannot be picked up by the normal human ear. Just my opinion. But this would be the cheapest and easiest way to get more bass... it will not however increase the volume of the rest of the speakers in the car.
If you only wanted to replace the sub without changing the factory stereo/amp... you could add an aftermarket amplifier by connecting it to the existing sub wiring connecting into the "high-level" inputs on the amp. What this will do is take the already amplified signal from the factory system, drop the signal down, and re-amplify it before sending it to the new aftermarket sub. Some people don't like this method because they say it adds distortion to the music.
I had installed stereo systems for a number of years (I don't anymore), but in my opinion, we are talking about a subwoofer here that produces the lowest frequencies. You would never notice this minimal distortion. Even using the same application on a tweeter or midrange speaker, the THD (total harmonic distortion) would be so minimal, that it cannot be picked up by the normal human ear. Just my opinion. But this would be the cheapest and easiest way to get more bass... it will not however increase the volume of the rest of the speakers in the car.
02-13-07, 08:25 AM
#21
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factory sub handling and advice
any subwoofer will handle minimal amounts of power if it is in a freeair or 7th order bandpass box (ported on both sides) installation.
if you have a sub in a sealed box, it will handle much higher power ratings. but it has to be air tight... no flimsy construction with hissing air leaks
so in theory if you were to make a sealed enclosure for the factory sub, you can push more power to it, and get more db's out of it (it will sound louder) beacuse it will be in a more efficient enclosure.
now, if the sub was designed to be in a freeair installation, it might not be able to stay rigid enough for the pressures induced in a sealed enclosure. basically if you seal the factory sub, it could fall apart.
your best bet is to abandon the freeair sub, install an amp via high level inputs and get a tasteful sealed box in the trunk (an 8" or 10" sub that is excellent quality, like JL Audio).
I know that a JL 10w0 is extremely efficent (125 watts continuous power rating) and sounds great. you don't need anything bigger than 8awg power wire ran to the back for an amp that is rated to 200-300 watts continuous.
there you go! About a $300 overall investment (if you make you own enclosure and install everything on your own) and you will have more bass, without rattles (hopefully) or tearing up your interior trying to wire 0awg wire for 2000 watt amps and juice sucking subs. and it won't be so loud that it will drown out the mids/highs.
if you have a sub in a sealed box, it will handle much higher power ratings. but it has to be air tight... no flimsy construction with hissing air leaks
so in theory if you were to make a sealed enclosure for the factory sub, you can push more power to it, and get more db's out of it (it will sound louder) beacuse it will be in a more efficient enclosure.
now, if the sub was designed to be in a freeair installation, it might not be able to stay rigid enough for the pressures induced in a sealed enclosure. basically if you seal the factory sub, it could fall apart.
your best bet is to abandon the freeair sub, install an amp via high level inputs and get a tasteful sealed box in the trunk (an 8" or 10" sub that is excellent quality, like JL Audio).
I know that a JL 10w0 is extremely efficent (125 watts continuous power rating) and sounds great. you don't need anything bigger than 8awg power wire ran to the back for an amp that is rated to 200-300 watts continuous.
there you go! About a $300 overall investment (if you make you own enclosure and install everything on your own) and you will have more bass, without rattles (hopefully) or tearing up your interior trying to wire 0awg wire for 2000 watt amps and juice sucking subs. and it won't be so loud that it will drown out the mids/highs.
02-13-07, 07:07 PM
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Or you could snip the connection to the factory sub and run them directly to the amp's high level inputs.
--However, in my opinion the 10" sub will be plenty of bass on its own to make the stereo sound robust.
plus, if you get rid of the factory sub, you can control the new sub's output with the amp, and focus the audio settings on the factory radio to make the mids and highs sound better. IE: turn down bass on radio, then turn up gain on amp, thus permitting the mids/highs to sound better by not having to pump extra juice on the lower notes.
02-24-07, 01:51 AM
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Quick update on sub stuff... I put in a JL Audio 10w3 tonight and I learned the following in the process:
-Amp is located just below passanger side plastic piece in trunk.
-The factory (13 speaker) sub is a DUAL VOICE COIL 2 Ohm sub (running at 4 ohms then) the Pink, Light Blue, Brown and Light Green wires are the leads to both voice coils. this is what you need to tap into in order to get high level inputs.
-The trunk of this vehicle is sealed sooo well, that my aftermarket 10" sub is barely audible up front. With the little access door int he center console open, and the armrest down, it is much louder.
-I set the bass at -2 on the stereo, and left the factory sub still wired. it sounds great with both the JL audio sub and the factory sub running. tomorrow i am going to make a permanent box, and will post pics later on.
-Amp is located just below passanger side plastic piece in trunk.
-The factory (13 speaker) sub is a DUAL VOICE COIL 2 Ohm sub (running at 4 ohms then) the Pink, Light Blue, Brown and Light Green wires are the leads to both voice coils. this is what you need to tap into in order to get high level inputs.
-The trunk of this vehicle is sealed sooo well, that my aftermarket 10" sub is barely audible up front. With the little access door int he center console open, and the armrest down, it is much louder.
-I set the bass at -2 on the stereo, and left the factory sub still wired. it sounds great with both the JL audio sub and the factory sub running. tomorrow i am going to make a permanent box, and will post pics later on.
02-24-07, 10:40 AM
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07-14-10, 02:43 PM
#29
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Anything can be done.
Here is my install:
Focal K2 on the doors and back suround speakers.
Focal Utopia 8" sub woofer.
Focal Utopia on center channel.
Audison LRX 5.1 Amp 1920 RMS
Audison LRX 4.1 Amp 950 RMS
Audison Bit One High to Low digital converter.
34 Liters Hand made sub woofer box under the shelf.
100% cabin and doors insulation with Dynamat sheets double layer, first layer thick second layer thin.
New speaker wiring everywhere.
Here is my install:
Focal K2 on the doors and back suround speakers.
Focal Utopia 8" sub woofer.
Focal Utopia on center channel.
Audison LRX 5.1 Amp 1920 RMS
Audison LRX 4.1 Amp 950 RMS
Audison Bit One High to Low digital converter.
34 Liters Hand made sub woofer box under the shelf.
100% cabin and doors insulation with Dynamat sheets double layer, first layer thick second layer thin.
New speaker wiring everywhere.
Last edited by pepos; 07-14-10 at 02:56 PM.
07-14-10, 02:45 PM
#30
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Some more pics.
ML systems have 8 homs speakers.
Non ML 4 homs.
Stock ML Amp system puts a lot of power in front doors and sub.
I tried also LC8 high to low and it couldn't handle the power that stock amp outputs to the sub.
Bit one did the job perfectly.
Plus that you can adjust anyrhing you can imagine with a PC connected to it.
ML systems have 8 homs speakers.
Non ML 4 homs.
Stock ML Amp system puts a lot of power in front doors and sub.
I tried also LC8 high to low and it couldn't handle the power that stock amp outputs to the sub.
Bit one did the job perfectly.
Plus that you can adjust anyrhing you can imagine with a PC connected to it.
Last edited by pepos; 07-14-10 at 03:33 PM.