Not sure if the 350 is different so Ill post it here. Fairly easy. Only difficulty is fitting tools behind the bolt, the springs are in the way. Make sure you torque everything to spec. Do not attempt to bleed the brakes yourself. You need the laptop with the toyota software to open the bleeder. The brake bleeding does not behave the same as regular car. Ill find the link that describes the detail and post it.





Jacked from rear, add jack stand





RX450h rear brake pads





RX450h rear brake rotors





RX450h rear brake shims kit





Anti squeaks from brake shim kit<br/>





Brake fluid and backup anti squeak. ATE is for BMW, backup in case I ran out





Rotor stuck, use the bolt trick. M8x1.25 bolt





Original Pads and clips





Pad clip





New clip from shim kit





Comparing old to new





Comparing old to new





Push piston back





Install new rotor





Install brake pads and caliper torque to spec







Use this as reference

 

How many miles did you have on this?

 

Exceedingly informative and useful post.

Thank you for taking the time to document the comparison.

Please consider sharing future operations.

In what condition are the front brakes? Is this the first brake change on this vehicle? Mileage at change?

 

I always use DOT4+ racing brake fluid, and the Permatex Ceramic brake grease for slide pins. The Permatex grease is good for some WAY HIGH temperature rating, so there is lower potential for drying out the grease from high temps. Then again, given how much less these RXh brakes are being used, I guess the likelihood for those really high temps is not nearly as great as for conventional systems (even moreso less than those on my 7.3L diesel F250).

Looking forward to seeing the bleeding details.

 

I am about to do the rear brakes. It is typical that rear brakes need to be rotated and pushed back because of the parking brake. I am not familiar with the lexus construction of the rear brakes. Is this still required or is it a straight push back? I thought I would ask first before I dive into the change. From the picture it appears like it is a straight push back. Great job on the tutorial and including the pictures.

 

As far as Parking Brake is concerned, it is the same 'ol drum technology that existed for decades. You may need to rotate the adjustment sprocket inside the drum to get shoes to release the drum/disk.

 

Sooo... what happened to getting the brake bleeding details?

 

Did you have to screw the piston into the rear caliper like every other rear brake caliper I have worked on? I usually remount the caliper on the caliper bracket without the disk on the axle to hold the caliper for me while I am screwing the piston back into the caliper.

 

I went to do the brakes, and when I checked, I realized I had much more time on the pads than I had originally anticipated. I am assuming later this summer I will tackle them. Sorry I still have the same question you do. I am prepared for the typically twist and push, or just regular push.

 

When I did my RX350 rear brakes and these look the same, I just pushed the piston into the caliper. You do not need to twist it as that is only needed for vehicles that also use the rear pads for the parking brake, thus they have an adjustment for the mechanical connection. My old 1994 Mazda MX-6 had rear brakes like that and I hated having to deal with turning the rear caliper piston in when replacing them.
The RX models have the internal drums which are on a separate system, you can see where they are located inside the large center bulge on the rear caliper.