When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I did a 1000 mile oil change last weekend and just used Mobil 1 M1-103A filter. Make sure you have a piece of 5/8 hose to guide oil from filter catch down into drain pan. Was a pretty easy job overall.
However, note that it has been "superseded" by 90915-YZZN1 which is the same filter, but made in Thailand. The Japanese made filter is getting hard to find.
I did a 1000 mile oil change last weekend and just used Mobil 1 M1-103A filter. Make sure you have a piece of 5/8 hose to guide oil from filter catch down into drain pan. Was a pretty easy job overall.
Doing the same this week. Where is the oil filter located? I got under there and couldn’t find it.
Doing the same this week. Where is the oil filter located? I got under there and couldn’t find it.
You have to remove the metal skid plate (4 bolts) but before that have to remove the narrow plastic chin in front of it that spans the width of the gx. Can't recall exactly but around 8 screws maybe and a pop out fastener in the middle. Once you have both of those off if you look straight up the filter is right there. I am kicking myself for not taking pictures to share.
Is the oil filter still horizontal so its contents empty all over your arm when it's unscrewed? I'd like to have a conversation with whomever made that decision on the Gen 2 GX,
Thanks for the responses. I did the oil change. This first time it took me 45 min. Next time It will probably be less than 20 min.
Here was the process. Please feel free to chime in if anyone has any input.
Tools:
- Flat head screwdriver
- Rachet
- 10mm socket
- 12 mm socket
- 14 mm socket
- Oil filter wrench
- 5/8 inner diameter flexible hose (1/2 ID suggested by @deschutes) (between 12 and 24 inches long suggested)
- Torque wrench (recommended)
- Funnel
Supplies:
- Mobil 1 M1-103A (OEM filter #90915-10010)
- Mobil 1 0W-20 Advanced Full Synthetic
💡IMPORTANT: Keep the receipts and document the oil change so that you don't have any issues if there are ever warranty claims.
1. Remove 8 bolts from the plastic protective cover (10mm)
2. Use a screwdriver to pry off the plastic retaining clip that holds up the plastic cover.
💡 Note: the plastic cover will fall off after this, so be ready to catch it. There are 2 pieces to the retaining clip and they will fall out. Make sure that you do not lose them.
3. Remove the 4 bolts (12mm) on the skid plate.
💡Note: The back of the skid plate will fall almost to the ground. The front is held up by 2 clips. Once all of the bolts are removed, slide the entire skid plate forward and it will release from the clips.
4. Remove the drain plug (14mm) and drain the oil
💡Note: As the oil gets to the bottom of the pan it will start to flow down the bottom of the oil pan. Make sure that you have your oil receptacle positioned to catch it (see second picture).
5. Once the oil is done draining, replace the drain plug.
According to Amsoil it should be torqued to 30 ft-lbs but that seemed overly tight to me so I just tightened it until it felt snug. If someone can confirm or correct this, I will update the post.
6. Attach the 5/8 ID hose to the drain directly below the oil filter and direct the hose to the used oil receptacle.
💡 Tip: I shoved a paper towel directly below the oil filter inside of the little drain pan to try to keep things clean.
7. Use the oil filter wrench to remove the oil filter. Mine was very tight straight from the factory.
7. Get your Mobil 1 M1-103A oil filter and put some new oil on the gasket.
8. Replace the oil filter (unsure if there is a proper torque here so I just did it by feel)
9. Refill the oil with you Mobil 1 0W-20 Advanced Full Synthetic.
Amsoil says that it takes that it takes 7.7 quarts with filter, but mine needed less than that to get to the top line on the dipstick.
10. Repeat steps 1-4 in reverse to put all of the protective covers back on.
11. Turn on the car, let it idle for 5 min check dipstick and top off oil level as needed.
Last edited by Lexga; Aug 20, 2024 at 07:59 AM.
Reason: updating info from recent posts
FYI, the correct OEM oil filter is part #90915-10010. This was verified from the original filter on the engine. Amazon sells a two pack which includes oil drain plug gaskets for $30.
Gave my L+ the 1K oil change yesterday. Japan made 90915-10010 filters and 0-20 Synthetic Toyota Oil from the local Toyota dealer. Instructions were good, appreciate the skid plate bolt call outs. The oil filter catch drain is new to me as well - so knowing about this ahead of time was great.
The only modification I might make is if you are using hardware store bulk clear tubing for the oil filter catch drain I think I might try 1/2 ID. 5/8 was a little loose, but worked fine.
Gave my L+ the 1K oil change yesterday. Japan made 90915-10010 filters and 0-20 Synthetic Toyota Oil from the local Toyota dealer. Instructions were good, appreciate the skid plate bolt call outs. The oil filter catch drain is new to me as well - so knowing about this ahead of time was great.
The only modification I might make is if you are using hardware store bulk clear tubing for the oil filter catch drain I think I might try 1/2 ID. 5/8 was a little loose, but worked fine.
I just did this amse oil change at 1200 miles. Was able to find the Japan filter. Skid plate wasn’t a problem but the threads on ones of the bolts was galled from the factory. Took a little effort to get it out. Was able to chase the threads with a tap and die though. I used the 5/8” hose after not being able to get 1/2” on the nipple. It held in place just fine when wedge against the weirdly positioned coolant hose. I drained out 7.7qts and that’s what I replaced it with. Penzoil full synthetic 0-w20. I was really surprised at how dark the oils came out with just a little over 1k miles. I contemplated sending it in to blackstone but didn’t have and kits on hand. I’m planning on changing it again around 4k just to see how it looks and I’ll order some kits to have it analyzed. All in all not a difficult change thankfully.
Thanks for the responses. I did the oil change. This first time it took me 45 min. Next time It will probably be less than 20 min.
Here was the process. Please feel free to chime in if anyone has any input.
Tools:
- Flat head screwdriver
- Rachet
- 10mm socket
- 12 mm socket
- 14 mm socket
- Oil filter wrench
- 5/8 inner diameter flexible hose (1/2 ID suggested by @deschutes) (between 12 and 24 inches long suggested)
- Torque wrench (recommended)
- Funnel
Supplies:
- Mobil 1 M1-103A (OEM filter #90915-10010)
- Mobil 1 0W-20 Advanced Full Synthetic
💡IMPORTANT: Keep the receipts and document the oil change so that you don't have any issues if there are ever warranty claims.
1. Remove 8 bolts from the plastic protective cover (10mm)
2. Use a screwdriver to pry off the plastic retaining clip that holds up the plastic cover.
💡 Note: the plastic cover will fall off after this, so be ready to catch it. There are 2 pieces to the retaining clip and they will fall out. Make sure that you do not lose them.
3. Remove the 4 bolts (12mm) on the skid plate.
💡Note: The back of the skid plate will fall almost to the ground. The front is held up by 2 clips. Once all of the bolts are removed, slide the entire skid plate forward and it will release from the clips.
4. Remove the drain plug (14mm) and drain the oil
💡Note: As the oil gets to the bottom of the pan it will start to flow down the bottom of the oil pan. Make sure that you have your oil receptacle positioned to catch it (see second picture).
5. Once the oil is done draining, replace the drain plug.
According to Amsoil it should be torqued to 30 ft-lbs but that seemed overly tight to me so I just tightened it until it felt snug. If someone can confirm or correct this, I will update the post.
6. Attach the 5/8 ID hose to the drain directly below the oil filter and direct the hose to the used oil receptacle.
💡 Tip: I shoved a paper towel directly below the oil filter inside of the little drain pan to try to keep things clean.
7. Use the oil filter wrench to remove the oil filter. Mine was very tight straight from the factory.
7. Get your Mobil 1 M1-103A oil filter and put some new oil on the gasket.
8. Replace the oil filter (unsure if there is a proper torque here so I just did it by feel)
9. Refill the oil with you Mobil 1 0W-20 Advanced Full Synthetic.
Amsoil says that it takes that it takes 7.7 quarts with filter, but mine needed less than that to get to the top line on the dipstick.
10. Repeat steps 1-4 in reverse to put all of the protective covers back on.
11. Turn on the car, let it idle for 5 min check dipstick and top off oil level as needed.
Hi Sir,
sorry for the dumb question, but why is there a need for a 5/8 hose where and when will it be used in the process? thanks!!
I just did this amse oil change at 1200 miles. Was able to find the Japan filter. Skid plate wasn’t a problem but the threads on ones of the bolts was galled from the factory. Took a little effort to get it out. Was able to chase the threads with a tap and die though. I used the 5/8” hose after not being able to get 1/2” on the nipple. It held in place just fine when wedge against the weirdly positioned coolant hose. I drained out 7.7qts and that’s what I replaced it with. Penzoil full synthetic 0-w20. I was really surprised at how dark the oils came out with just a little over 1k miles. I contemplated sending it in to blackstone but didn’t have and kits on hand. I’m planning on changing it again around 4k just to see how it looks and I’ll order some kits to have it analyzed. All in all not a difficult change thankfully.
Hi sir, planning to do my oil change, i am wondering when and where will the hose be needed? hoping for your response, thanks!!
The hose is attached to the spout on the plastic drain cup below to oil filter so the oil can be directed out without drilling all over the frame, this is the new design horizontal oil filter on this engine
Getting my stuff ready for when the GX comes to change the break in oil. What wrench works well for this location? I was thinking of trying a Motivx filter wrench cap with a socket, or just buying some filter pliers. I'm curious how torqued down it is from the factory? Otherwise I have the filters and all the other accessories ready.