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Yepp and I didn't see any resolution in that thread, just suggestions and then the OP stopped posting.
I took a quick glance at the shifter assembly in the interior last night and didn't see anything obviously wrong in there. Today I'm going to pick up a new battery, just to eliminate any potential low voltage situations. If that doesn't solve the issue I'm going to try a multimeter on the connections specified service manual.
I believe I might be having a similar issue with my transmission...
Yes, I can safely say ~15k miles later I have had zero issues with the transmission. So while it wasn’t exactly something you want to spend so much on, at least it seems to have done the trick and should last me a good long time.
I recently started noticing the transmission slipping and got the P2714 code. I set the 150k maintenance for this week at Lexus and told them. I was told they won’t do anything except replace the transmission. When I picked it up I mentioned taking it into another mechanic to see what they can find. I guess they checked codes on the car and found the 2714 pressure control solenoid D, performance or stuck off, in addition the the solenoid C - he didn’t tell me the code but I didn’t think to ask either or he probably would have because he showed me the paperwork that had it - I just didn’t realize what I was looking at to see it.
When I called the other mechanic this afternoon and asked about this and possible cost, I was told that he’d basically have to drop the pan to look at it. He may not have to replace the solenoids, if he has to replace them, it depends on their location, or theee may be enough damage to the transmission that repacking them isn’t going to help.
I’m was to get some idea of what kind of expense I’d be looking at and what is going to be the best path for me.
Does anyone have any experience with this? Any thoughts or suggestions? I wish I actually knew what I was talking about (lol) and I have a loose understanding but probably not even enough to sound enlightened!
I’d appreciate any insight one might offer a single lady walking into what could be a mess of problems.
IMO.... unless they can positively determine if is a failed specific solenoid or wiring problem the AT shop will probably want to replace the entire valve body at minimum. If they do perform small component fix they may not warranty the work.
I did see at least that top thread, I haven’t looked at the other ones but I will. I would be I searched most of them - because I don’t understand enough of it, can you give me a simple explanation of ‘the entire valve body’ vs specific solenoids?
Thank you!
I am far from a transmission expert but valve body is like the main unit that controls the clutches in the transmission to change gears. This is accomplished by these solenoids located within the valve body which control the flow of AT fluid.
Here is a complete overview of the transmission used in the 460
Looking in FSM that codes says ---> "DTC P2714 Pressure Control Solenoid "D" Performance (Shift Solenoid Valve SLT)"
That solenoid is listed in first graphic above on the left side
"Shift solenoid valve SLT controls the transmission line pressure for smooth transmission operation based on signals from the throttle position sensor and vehicle speed sensor. The ECM adjusts the current to shift solenoid valve SLT to control the hydraulic line pressure coming from the primary regulator valve. Appropriate line pressure assures smooth shifting with varying engine outputs."
P2714: The ECM detects a malfunction in shift solenoid valve SLT (ON side) according to the difference in speed of the turbine and output shaft, and also by the oil pressure (2-trip detection logic*1, 1-trip detection logic*2).
Shift solenoid valve SLT remains open or closed
Shift solenoid valve S1, S2, S3, S4 or SL2 remains open or closed
Gear 6 incorrect ratio (sequence valve) or 1-2 shift valve is stuck
The ECM calculates the amount of heat absorbed by the friction material based on the difference in speed (clutch slippage) between the turbine and output shaft. The ECM illuminates the MIL and stores this DTC when the amount of heat absorption exceeds the specified value.
There are two causes of speed difference.
When shift solenoid valve SLT remains ON, oil pressure decreases, which causes the clutch engagement force to decrease.
When a shift solenoid valve remains ON or OFF, the gear position commanded by the ECM and the actual gear position are not the same.
NOTICE: If you continue driving under these conditions, the clutch will burn out and the vehicle will no longer be drivable.
There is a Lexus/Toyota Techstream (Dealer software) test to see if this solenoid is working or not. This can be one without tearing into transmission. Attached is troubleshooting info from the factory service manual for this error.
EDIT If you get the chance post the other code as well
Okay, Lexus said there are 4 solenoids and if I have the two bad ones replaced it’s better to have all 4 replaced if they’re doing the labor.
When I called the other maintenance garage, he said that it would depend on if the two that are bad are above (?). Like if they drop the pan there will be two right there and if it’s those that need replaced the labor is much less intensive than if they have to bring the rest of it down to get to either of them.
Like I said, I don’t really know enough about it but what he is saying makes sense and I can see that there are upper/lower solenoids.
The valve body of transmission is shown in this Russian transmission fluid service video. It is exposed by dropping the transmission fluid pan at the bottom of the transmission. That black piece mechanic is removing is the filter which screws into the valve body. All of those components above this filter (see the wiring) is the valve body. Many of the wires goto these solenoids in the valve body.
There is a Lexus/Toyota Techstream (Dealer software) test to see if this solenoid is working or not. This can be one without tearing into transmission. Attached is troubleshooting info from the factory service manual for this error.
EDIT If you get the chance post the other code as well
I will look this over after I get some caffeine going and my brain is pumping!
I emailed to ask for the second code but don’t know that he works today, I don’t think he typically works Saturdays.
I’m looking at my invoice to see if it’s recorded here anywhere but I’m not seeing it.
If they are already tearing into it isn't much more work to pull down the valve body if needed and replace the solenoids. I don't think solenoids cost that much overall. I've never looked up pricing on them. Not sure what the book time on a job like this is though. Shops usually charge on an estimate of time regardless if it took shorter or longer time than book states it should. I would imagine this is a $800-$1500 job. I could be totally off though.
