When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Looking at adding a 12V power receptacle in cargo area of my 2011 GX for a travel fridge. I notice that there are 2x 30A fuses for folding seats:
Anyone know if I can get at one of these wires in the cargo area for power? I’m willing to do some dismantling to get at it because that would probably still be simpler than running wire all the way from the engine compartment. I’d just like some confirmation before tearing up the back of the truck. If this isn’t a good way to go, any suggestions for routing power back there? I don’t need 30 amps, but would like at least 12 amps in back for fridge plus other items. Full-time power is slightly preferred but accessory switched is better than nothing.
As I recall, the switch raise/lower the seats is on the US driver side of the cargo area. Upstream of that switch you likely have the wire that's fused by that 30A fuse - probably from the main wire loom that runs along the drivers side of the GX from front to back. It may fork off wires at a few places along the way, but if you start at the power seat switch hopefully you won't be dealing with a loom of 20 wires to figure out your power lead.... I would think you'd want to tap into that wiring before the seat switch to run your accessories - if its fused at 30A, then a draw of < 15 should be fine. I don't know what fridge you are running, but most only need a big draw when the compressor starts up, and then it's just a few amps to maintain. If you can raise/lower the seats without the ignition turned on, then it's got constant power coming in and you should be able to find it in that harness.
I think your best bet is to remove the plastic trim around that switch, pull all the trim away, and see what wires you're dealing with. Unplug the seat switch harness, and test the pins feeding it for power until you find one. You can ground to the body, or if there's a white/black wire in the group that's often the ground.
@Acrad35751, thanks! That helps a ton. Looks like it should be straightforward now. Just need to free up a day to dig in.
Originally Posted by Jacket
As I recall, the switch raise/lower the seats is on the US driver side of the cargo area. Upstream of that switch you likely have the wire that's fused by that 30A fuse - probably from the main wire loom that runs along the drivers side of the GX from front to back. It may fork off wires at a few places along the way, but if you start at the power seat switch hopefully you won't be dealing with a loom of 20 wires to figure out your power lead.... I would think you'd want to tap into that wiring before the seat switch to run your accessories - if its fused at 30A, then a draw of < 15 should be fine. I don't know what fridge you are running, but most only need a big draw when the compressor starts up, and then it's just a few amps to maintain. If you can raise/lower the seats without the ignition turned on, then it's got constant power coming in and you should be able to find it in that harness.
@Jacket, I appreciate the reply. Thanks to Acrad's tip, I found that the 30A power feeds should be able to be accessed under the cargo floor, beneath the seats. Yes, there is an ECU module for each third row seat that gets the main power and the switches are just inputs to the ECU. Not sure when I'll get to it, but I'll document it when I do. It is battery power and not accessory power, so full-time.
Definitely interested in tapping into that 30AMP feed as well. I effectively never use the 3rd row and my 50 quart ARB wouldn't be in there if I did so this is a great power source option. I've been using a 400W portable power unit that charges off the 100W outlet to power it.
I'll add this thread to the Wiki site when you finish mod. Not having to run another wire run to rear will save a lot of time for many. This should apply to all '10-'13 models and '14+ Luxury. I wonder if the '14+ Base or Premium have any of the seat wiring? I am doubtful they do though as we have seen other unique wiring harnesses on other projects.
Makes sense (now) that there's an ECU. I pulled the panel where the seat switches are and found just a couple of small wires feeding the switch, but nothing else.
If you remove the panel where the jack is mounted (left side at the bottom), you can see a big wire bundle, and a section of wires that come off it and head down underneath the driver side 3rd row seat. That wire bundle might have the wire you need, and you can sort of see the connector if you peak underneath the folding panel. I wonder if you could remove the plastic deck at the very back between the carpet and weatherstrip, and whatever reinforcement is under that, and maybe get to the ECU without completely removing the seat.
Looking for fridge power as well. I normally install a Blue Sea fuse panel off a second house battery and run all ancillary devices to it. Keeping it simple with Toyoro this time; GCI camp table, Weber Q1200, pair of ARB Touring chairs and an ARB Zero 47qt fridge.
I did this mod a couple of years ago. Just thought I'd share a couple of pictures. I added an on/off switch for the fridge plug-in, but if I had it to do over again I wouldn't bother. I use the on/off on the fridge/freezer exclusively. I ran a wire directly from the battery rather than tapping into system wiring but that is just a personal preference. Either method should be fine
I did this mod a couple of years ago. Just thought I'd share a couple of pictures. I added an on/off switch for the fridge plug-in, but if I had it to do over again I wouldn't bother. I use the on/off on the fridge/freezer exclusively. I ran a wire directly from the battery rather than tapping into system wiring but that is just a personal preference. Either method should be fine
Nice 1st post!
I was @ Autobruder in Miami, FL today looking at different fridge options including the ARB Zero in 47 and 63, and the Dometic 55 "Ice Machine" 😅. I prefer the side opening top to the front to back opening, but the 63 Zero would not open all the way based on measurements. It didn't look like the slide for the 63 would clear the vehicle enough to open the top all the way. Also would not solve the opening inside while under way.
That left me with either the Dometic 55 or the front to back opening 47. Your tilt slide adds another variable to the equation, but my ideal situation would be to side open to access the fridge static or moving from the second row of seats.
I like to play it safe with the OEM wiring, keeping the toys totally isolated from it, but in this case, well, how often am I going to raise and lower those seats with a fridge there full time 😉
12VDC rear car port tied to ignition "on" circuit. Bluetti AC200 battery back up plugged into that. Dometic CFX3 55 IM plugged into Bluetti AC200. Solar array on roof 🤔
10-11-18, 08:26 PM
Cargo Area Power Options
