for your sake, I really hope that’s the case, but that’s typically not how rust works. If you’ve got that level of perforation in one spot, it’s hard to see how there wouldn’t be extensive rust elsewhere.

 

I wouldn't say you're screwed as I've seen plenty of talented welders fix rusted out frames (I'm assuming this can be saved though). I would go to a local/reputable body shop and see what they can do to remedy it while also QA'ing the rest of the under side. They should be able to assess your situation so you fully understand what you're up against and from there you can make a informed decision on how to proceed. On a side note, your warranty from the dealer may cover the repair or depending on the time line/warranty you could give the vehicle back for a refund. Although, the repair cost may be cheaper than you think and not worth the hassle?

 

Drive it to a carfax lot and sell it outright to them. They never crawl underneath the car... then go shopping for a new to you used one from a non rust belt state.
That rubberized coating applied by the previous owner is likely covering up other issues which eventually perforate thru from the inside out.

good luck.

 

is this a 470 or 460?

 

about how much does that run?

 

Good evening everyone, today I drove my gx460 through the snow and ice for the first time (here in Houston). I am a native Texan meaning this was my first real experience with driving a car in these conditions and im happy to report that the gx was more than adequate and I had lots of fun! I wasn't planning on driving anywhere but it turned out to be necessary so here we are. My question to those with more experience than me is, how worried should I be about the road salt that is now all over the underside of the car? The earliest I can realistically see getting the car washed is tmrw evening or Friday if the snow hasn't melted tmrw. Is one trip through the snow enough to rot out the frame if left un cleaned for a week? I know toyota seems to have a reputation for frames rotting out (not sure how much validity this claim has) but I thought it would be worth asking the question. Is there anything I can do to absolutely ensure I don't have to deal with the headaches that come along with rust? Thanks.

 

It would be a good idea to get under there with a hose and rinse everything but no, one trip will not “rot out your frame.”

 

the salts going on be on the road for a couple days. keep washing under it and spray some water into the areas where the rear wiper hides. also the areas where the plastic bump meets the metal panels.

for absolute peace of mind, buy some and either crawl under and spray EVERYTHING, or have a shop do it.

 

As a native Texan, but also a Corrosion Technologist, do not worry about anything.

When the weather gets back to normal Texas weather and there's no more salt on the road, take the rig to the local manual car wash and wash it a few times over a few weeks, if it'll make you feel better. Corrosion is a slow electrochemical process, nothing notable is going to happen with what you're facing. If you'd like, run it through a automatic car wash that has the undercarriage spray function first then at the manual car wash, focus on the crevices and cavities as that's what'll store the salt. You don't have to go crazy, just be mindful of it and get some water flushing those spots out the best you easily can.

Honestly, a few rainy days will have the same effect of washing it underneath too. No need to stress about it causing any actual issues. If you live by the gulf, the salty sea water is more of a problem than this one random incident.

Also, how y'all doing down there in this 100 degree colder than normal weather?!

 

I think most people that were prepared for possible extended power outages are doing fine. For me personally here on the north side of town we were without power yesterday for about 13 hours but it finally came back. I really need to finally get a transfer switch installed and buy a larger generator. Sort of a pain to get out my smaller Yamaha unit and run cables to the fridges etc...

 

i think it was $160 bux. I was in and out in 45 minutes.

 

Krown sucks the stuff doesn't work all that well and doesn't last long either. Unless they've drastically improved the formula but about 4 years ago I know someone that had it applied was a complete waste of money. Only positive is the stuff didn't do any damage, it did drip everywhere though.

 

Lots of people are struggling right now, just got power back for the first time since Sunday night so thats good, water pipes are frozen and one of my water heaters kicked the bucket but other than that it's going ok. Definitely ready to have my warm texas weather back though lol. Power is still very inconsistent but at least I have it now to charge up a few things so I am not complaining. It's rough for sure, Texas isn't built for this kinda weather.

 

plenty of pro shop reviews online with video that show Krown works. What does that even mean-it didn’t do any damage, lol? I’ll post my review in the spring after a NJ winter. I don’t trust people who say “I know a guy.” You either see the before (application day) and after (inspection after winter) or go home. In all honesty, I see plenty of FF posts stating the same thing. The only option is to try and see how it does.

 

2010 GX 460

Taking it to body shop tomorrow to check if it can be fixed!