Jack and Jack Stands
Thread Starter
Driver School Candidate
Joined: Mar 2018
Posts: 26
Likes: 2
From: BC
Jack and Jack Stands
Hello all,
Im planning on doing a brake job, replacing front rotors and pads. Im starting from scratch in regards to tools.
Im looking to get a jack and some jack stands and see that there are several weight versions. With the GX being quite heavy, do you think the standing 2 ton kits will suffice? Such as the one below?
https://www.princessauto.com/en/deta...it/A-p8319881e
Or do you think I need to go with a 3 Ton set?
https://www.princessauto.com/en/deta...it/A-p8280158e
Thank you all.
Im planning on doing a brake job, replacing front rotors and pads. Im starting from scratch in regards to tools.
Im looking to get a jack and some jack stands and see that there are several weight versions. With the GX being quite heavy, do you think the standing 2 ton kits will suffice? Such as the one below?
https://www.princessauto.com/en/deta...it/A-p8319881e
Or do you think I need to go with a 3 Ton set?
https://www.princessauto.com/en/deta...it/A-p8280158e
Thank you all.
Racer
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 1,734
Likes: 606
From: San Jose, CA
I'd say get the 3-ton jack. I'm about to replace my broken 2-ton with a 3-ton low profile one too. For the jack stands, if you are going to work on other cars beside the GX, get the 2-ton. I have the 3 ton stands and they are too high to use on my mini van or camry. I may have to get an even smaller one for the camry.
if you don't have an impact tool already (electric or air) to help remove the lug nuts, get one of those 4 sizes cross bar one instead of using the OEM tools. Maybe also a torque bar?
Some brake cleaners would be useful too.
if you don't have an impact tool already (electric or air) to help remove the lug nuts, get one of those 4 sizes cross bar one instead of using the OEM tools. Maybe also a torque bar?
Some brake cleaners would be useful too.
Rookie
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 28
Likes: 3
From: Va
Hello all,
Im planning on doing a brake job, replacing front rotors and pads. Im starting from scratch in regards to tools.
Im looking to get a jack and some jack stands and see that there are several weight versions. With the GX being quite heavy, do you think the standing 2 ton kits will suffice? Such as the one below?
https://www.princessauto.com/en/deta...it/A-p8319881e
Or do you think I need to go with a 3 Ton set?
https://www.princessauto.com/en/deta...it/A-p8280158e
Thank you all.
Im planning on doing a brake job, replacing front rotors and pads. Im starting from scratch in regards to tools.
Im looking to get a jack and some jack stands and see that there are several weight versions. With the GX being quite heavy, do you think the standing 2 ton kits will suffice? Such as the one below?
https://www.princessauto.com/en/deta...it/A-p8319881e
Or do you think I need to go with a 3 Ton set?
https://www.princessauto.com/en/deta...it/A-p8280158e
Thank you all.
- Mechanics rubber gloves (7mil works well)
- Socket set (you'll have several sizes here)
- Breaker bar (I usually use one and/or a pipe crimped to fit the end of the bar in snugly. Don't use a socket with an extension if you can help it - stresses the socket mechanism)
- Coat hanger (to hang the caliper up and out of the way)
- Light to see what you're doing back there (get one you can hang on something)
- Hand sledge hammer (might need to bang off the old rotor - sometimes they rust on pretty well and are TOUGH to get off of there)
- Anti-seize to put on the hub when you put the new rotor on
- Needle nose (sometimes the brake pad clips need a little convincing)
- Wire brush (rotary wire wheel if you can - to clean up any parts that may look corroded)
- Torque wrench to put the nuts back on - going from memory, but I think it's 83ft/lbs? Don't overdo it, just a click and it's good.
- Rags to clean up
- Gojo to clean up anything you may get messy with and 100% needed if you don't wear gloves.
That's typically what I use when I do rotors and brakes. I've done 4runner rotors/brakes a few times, it's not too bad.
Thread Starter
Driver School Candidate
Joined: Mar 2018
Posts: 26
Likes: 2
From: BC
I'd say get the 3-ton jack. I'm about to replace my broken 2-ton with a 3-ton low profile one too. For the jack stands, if you are going to work on other cars beside the GX, get the 2-ton. I have the 3 ton stands and they are too high to use on my mini van or camry. I may have to get an even smaller one for the camry.
if you don't have an impact tool already (electric or air) to help remove the lug nuts, get one of those 4 sizes cross bar one instead of using the OEM tools. Maybe also a torque bar?
Some brake cleaners would be useful too.
if you don't have an impact tool already (electric or air) to help remove the lug nuts, get one of those 4 sizes cross bar one instead of using the OEM tools. Maybe also a torque bar?
Some brake cleaners would be useful too.
Thanks, will do 2 ton jack still lift up the GX? I would be working on other cars potentially so thanks for the insight on the stands.
Thread Starter
Driver School Candidate
Joined: Mar 2018
Posts: 26
Likes: 2
From: BC
Since you said you were going from scratch, I'll see if I can make a list of the standard tools I need during a typical job:
That's typically what I use when I do rotors and brakes. I've done 4runner rotors/brakes a few times, it's not too bad.
- Mechanics rubber gloves (7mil works well)
- Socket set (you'll have several sizes here)
- Breaker bar (I usually use one and/or a pipe crimped to fit the end of the bar in snugly. Don't use a socket with an extension if you can help it - stresses the socket mechanism)
- Coat hanger (to hang the caliper up and out of the way)
- Light to see what you're doing back there (get one you can hang on something)
- Hand sledge hammer (might need to bang off the old rotor - sometimes they rust on pretty well and are TOUGH to get off of there)
- Anti-seize to put on the hub when you put the new rotor on
- Needle nose (sometimes the brake pad clips need a little convincing)
- Wire brush (rotary wire wheel if you can - to clean up any parts that may look corroded)
- Torque wrench to put the nuts back on - going from memory, but I think it's 83ft/lbs? Don't overdo it, just a click and it's good.
- Rags to clean up
- Gojo to clean up anything you may get messy with and 100% needed if you don't wear gloves.
That's typically what I use when I do rotors and brakes. I've done 4runner rotors/brakes a few times, it's not too bad.
Advanced
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 515
Likes: 79
From: Louisiana
Torque spec I use for GX460 wheels is 83 ft-lb and for caliper slider bolts 65 ft-lb. I have not done rotors.
If you don't have a torque wrench I'd recommend the tekton unit for under $40.
I use the factory bottle jack. Slow to deploy but it works. I think my jack stands are 2-ton.
If you don't have a torque wrench I'd recommend the tekton unit for under $40.
I use the factory bottle jack. Slow to deploy but it works. I think my jack stands are 2-ton.
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Racer
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From: San Jose, CA
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Driver School Candidate
Joined: Jul 2018
Posts: 33
Likes: 4
From: California
I'd go for the 3 ton, she's heavy. FWIW I have 3 ton and 6 ton stands, a little overkill in the right place isn't a bad idea. Harbor Freight has them on sale all the time.
going with what @Clay already stated:
Bolt size and torque should be identical to my 5th gen, but I haven't gotten into the GX yet.
Front:
Brake caliper mounting bolts - 137 lb-ft (19mm)
Rear:
Brake caliper mounting bolts: 74 lb-ft (17mm)
Brake caliper slide pins: 65 lb-ft (17mm)
going with what @Clay already stated:
- Mechanics rubber gloves (7mil works well)
- Socket set (you'll have several sizes here)
- Breaker bar (I usually use one and/or a pipe crimped to fit the end of the bar in snugly. Don't use a socket with an extension if you can help it - stresses the socket mechanism)
- Coat hanger (to hang the caliper up and out of the way)
- Light to see what you're doing back there (get one you can hang on something)
- Hand sledge hammer (might need to bang off the old rotor - sometimes they rust on pretty well and are TOUGH to get off of there)
- Anti-seize to put on the hub when you put the new rotor on
- Needle nose (sometimes the brake pad clips need a little convincing)
- Wire brush (rotary wire wheel if you can - to clean up any parts that may look corroded)
- Torque wrench to put the nuts back on - going from memory, but I think it's 83ft/lbs? Don't overdo it, just a click and it's good.
- Rags to clean up
- Gojo to clean up anything you may get messy with and 100% needed if you don't wear gloves.
- PB Blaster for the caliper bolts. My 5th gen bolts were pretty seized and I live in a pretty mild climate.
- M8-1.25 bolts in case rotor is stuck on hub (there are bolt holes on rotor to help pry it off)
- Brake lubricant -
- Extra retainer pins
- Shim kit if using OEM replacement
Bolt size and torque should be identical to my 5th gen, but I haven't gotten into the GX yet.
Front:
Brake caliper mounting bolts - 137 lb-ft (19mm)
Rear:
Brake caliper mounting bolts: 74 lb-ft (17mm)
Brake caliper slide pins: 65 lb-ft (17mm)
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