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Hello every1 2011 gx , so this week i realised the car takes long to start sometimes here is my explanation.. Normally i hit the start button then click and starts . Now sometimes it does like 6–7 clicking noises then starts. Like notmally it takes 3 secondes and boom now more like 7 sec . Could it be starter or battery. Sorry for the wisrd explanation. If starter what brand do u suggest as new one here at dealer is 1k … makes no sense
sad to say i know next to nothing about mechanicals, but what you describe sounds like action I was beginning to experience - knowing my battery had 6 years on it but wanting to get every last start out of it. when I finally replaced the battery, starting returned to normal instant action.
how old is the battery? have you tried charging it?
if you replace the battery, personally, I highly recommend the Lexus OEM that is distributed by Interstate. As big a ripoff as Lexus is on the price of parts in general, for whatever weird reason, the battery is a lot cheaper than you even can buy it direct from Interstate, and has a better warranty. or, at least that was my experience a couple months ago.
Hard on the starter motor ... undervoltage increases the current draw ... that stresses components ... leading to premature failure if continued for any meaningful period of time. I always replace my battery when approaching the 5-year timeframe ... guaranteed degradation ... all about the chemistry.
Hard on the starter motor ... undervoltage increases the current draw ... that stresses components ... leading to premature failure if continued for any meaningful period of time. I always replace my battery when approaching the 5-year timeframe ... guaranteed degradation ... all about the chemistry.
How does a lower voltage on a DC starter motor increase the current draw? The inrush exists whether going from 0 to 14 or from 0 to 10 but I don't think inrush is even in scope of the comment.
P (Watts) = I (Amps) * V (Volts). All devices will pull their required power ... so if the Volts are low(er) the Current (Amps) will be high(er) to meet the Power requirement.
This higher current stresses components ... which is why I have (changing the subject) an APC power conditioner on all of my expensive home electronics .... "Brown Power" kills electronics.
When doing custom wiring on a vehicle, I always assume 10-volts ... to upsize the wire gauge in the event of under-voltage.
P (Watts) = I (Amps) * V (Volts). All devices will pull their required power ... so if the Volts are low(er) the Current (Amps) will be high(er) to meet the Power requirement.
This higher current stresses components ... which is why I have (changing the subject) an APC power conditioner on all of my expensive home electronics .... "Brown Power" kills electronics.
When doing custom wiring on a vehicle, I always assume 10-volts ... to upsize the wire gauge in the event of under-voltage.
Ah I see the issue. The starter motor does not pull any required power and it is not a constant power device. The voltage will cause the current. Because it is not constant power you cant use that equation in that way. You should use E=I*R. Ignoring dynamic states, this then becomes equal to a resistive load, meaning the constant R can be eliminated for trend identification, and you have E is directly proportional to I. This shows that a lower voltage draws a lower current.