Need some quick buying advice
#16
Pole Position
There are tons of posts and very long ones on the famous THUMP! It requires a new driveshaft, rear control arms and bushings, a couple other things I beleive. What happens is when coming to a stop it feels like you get rear ended. There is a TSB, and by now a pricey fix to correct!
#17
Racer
iTrader: (7)
Wow those are some low miles! I'd say if it doesn't go any higher than $9000, I'd got for it. The dash is gone and theres definitely some scuffs on the outside but, it seems to be a clean ride otherwise. Not to mention the GX drive train will go well past 300k if maintained. I'm looking at a 04 right now with 185k in near mint condition for $8k myself, low miles are nearly impossible to find under $13-14k. Good luck man.
#18
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Wow those are some low miles! I'd say if it doesn't go any higher than $9000, I'd got for it. The dash is gone and theres definitely some scuffs on the outside but, it seems to be a clean ride otherwise. Not to mention the GX drive train will go well past 300k if maintained. I'm looking at a 04 right now with 185k in near mint condition for $8k myself, low miles are nearly impossible to find under $13-14k. Good luck man.
Thanks! on the plus, it was well maintained and I can get the records, maybe I was expecting too much of a discount for not being able to drive it and that it sat for 3 years. Hopefully the windows will reinitialize as they don't work at the individual window control or master panel except for drivers of course. Don't remember seeing blinking lights.
I don't think the auction house did any more for a cautious restart after sitting other than put in a new battery. Doubt they drained and refilled the tank, conditioned the fuel etc. Many unknowns.
So even w/ that in mind, under 9k seems like a good deal ? ( playing devils advocate )
#19
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
hi everybody!!
Thanks for all the help, but the final bid was 9200.00 adding in the auctioneer's 15% buyers premium means that the winning bidder is at 10,580 out the door for the vehicle.
Good price yes, but maybe not when you consider that it sat for three years, needs front CV boots, and has not had the THUNK! update. on the plus side , it has low miles good paint history, new timing belt !
that said, I think 10k is too much for a car like this you cannot drive.
thanks again!
Matt
Thanks for all the help, but the final bid was 9200.00 adding in the auctioneer's 15% buyers premium means that the winning bidder is at 10,580 out the door for the vehicle.
Good price yes, but maybe not when you consider that it sat for three years, needs front CV boots, and has not had the THUNK! update. on the plus side , it has low miles good paint history, new timing belt !
that said, I think 10k is too much for a car like this you cannot drive.
thanks again!
Matt
#20
Hi everybody, just a quick update !
I think this one is going a little higher than I want to pay w/o being able to drive it and that it sat for 3 years. It is the 15% buyers premium that is starting to much it out of range now as if it sells at the next big of 6000, you are really paying 6900. I think it will go higher, maybe to 7 or 7500. So really minimum you are looking at is 8600. The vehicle needs front CV boots as well I learned from discussions w/ the shop.
Just for kicks, take a look:
http://farmer.rasmuscatalog.com/cgi-...gi?farmer35/11
I think this one is going a little higher than I want to pay w/o being able to drive it and that it sat for 3 years. It is the 15% buyers premium that is starting to much it out of range now as if it sells at the next big of 6000, you are really paying 6900. I think it will go higher, maybe to 7 or 7500. So really minimum you are looking at is 8600. The vehicle needs front CV boots as well I learned from discussions w/ the shop.
Just for kicks, take a look:
http://farmer.rasmuscatalog.com/cgi-...gi?farmer35/11
You guys really need to look deeper into the red flags before you go jumping into this car. Cheaping out is not a good option. Spend the extra money and buy one that is newer and less miles. What you cheap out on can cost you thousands in repair work. I suggest that if you are not a pro that can find problems with the car, that you buy from a private seller and someone who has a history record on the car. Stay away from auctions and Stealerships.
hi everybody!!
Thanks for all the help, but the final bid was 9200.00 adding in the auctioneer's 15% buyers premium means that the winning bidder is at 10,580 out the door for the vehicle.
Good price yes, but maybe not when you consider that it sat for three years, needs front CV boots, and has not had the THUNK! update. on the plus side , it has low miles good paint history, new timing belt !
that said, I think 10k is too much for a car like this you cannot drive.
thanks again!
Matt
Thanks for all the help, but the final bid was 9200.00 adding in the auctioneer's 15% buyers premium means that the winning bidder is at 10,580 out the door for the vehicle.
Good price yes, but maybe not when you consider that it sat for three years, needs front CV boots, and has not had the THUNK! update. on the plus side , it has low miles good paint history, new timing belt !
that said, I think 10k is too much for a car like this you cannot drive.
thanks again!
Matt
#21
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
good points
I would run far away from that car. No way on earth I'm buying a car that sat around for 3 years. That is the worst thing you can do to an automobile. Second, this is an auction? The seat is shot, the dash is cracked and it needs new CV boots?
You guys really need to look deeper into the red flags before you go jumping into this car. Cheaping out is not a good option. Spend the extra money and buy one that is newer and less miles. What you cheap out on can cost you thousands in repair work. I suggest that if you are not a pro that can find problems with the car, that you buy from a private seller and someone who has a history record on the car. Stay away from auctions and Stealerships.
That is not a good price for this car.
You guys really need to look deeper into the red flags before you go jumping into this car. Cheaping out is not a good option. Spend the extra money and buy one that is newer and less miles. What you cheap out on can cost you thousands in repair work. I suggest that if you are not a pro that can find problems with the car, that you buy from a private seller and someone who has a history record on the car. Stay away from auctions and Stealerships.
That is not a good price for this car.
Learned a lot about a model I knew little about and now really like and am now looking.
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