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Hi Guys, Looking to see if anyone has suggestions, will call the mechanic who worked on my headers tomorrow morning but figured I would post here as well.
Story is I've had my PPE headers removed and ceramic coated (long story). Car was off the road for about 2 weeks while the headers were coated and cured. Battery was disconnected for those 2 weeks.
I got the car back on Tuesday and it's been fine driving until tonight when my car threw a few CELs about 1 minute after i put it into sport+ mode for the first time since the header reinstall. (wasn't pushing the car very hard either, only cruising about 55mph). I've gotten 0 CELs since I got headers installed earlier this year.
I have PPE EL Headers
RR Racing Tune
Full RR Racing Bazooka Exhaust
P0057 H02S Heater Control Circuit Low Bank 2 Sensor 2
P1362 "B" Camshaft Position Actuator Circuit Open, Low, High Bank 1
P1363 "B" Camshaft Position Actuator Circuit Open, Low, High Bank 2
P0031 H02S Heater Control Circuit Low Bank 1 Sensor 1
P0051 H02S Heater Control Circuit Low Bank 2 Sensor 1
P0051 H02S Heater Control Circuit Low Bank 1 Sensor 2
I could understand that there would be a slight chance that maybe 1 of the O2 sensors was damaged during reinstall but this many CELs is a little concerning. Battery was disconnected for 2 weeks, I know that won't erase the RR Tune but my car would need to re-learn some things. I could reset the CELs and drive it more and see if it happens again. Thoughts?
I have an ODB Scanner so I can reset some of them, however a few of them are permanent codes which will not clear until the issue was resolved. The only way to clear them all is to pull the battery terminal, which I have done. I’m going to drive it again and see if they come back up again.
So far suggestions I’ve received from people are:
- Shorted sensor wire ( however not sure one sensor wire would cause them all to go off )
- Dirty/clogged O2 sensors
- RR Racing tune lost by power
I talked with the mechanic, the only thing he touched were the pre-cat sensors and he was careful to make sure that the wire did not touch anything. He’s done the same header swap on another GSF so he’s familiar with it.
Since there are codes for all four o2 sensors, I would check fuses in the fuse box under the hood. If I remember correctly the EFI or EFI2 fuse powers the o2 heater circuits.
Since there are codes for all four o2 sensors, I would check fuses in the fuse box under the hood. If I remember correctly the EFI or EFI2 fuse powers the o2 heater circuits.
THANK YOU!!!!!!!!
Any idea why the fuse blew? Should I be concerned about it happening again? I'm going to get the wires/sensors checked out tomorrow just in case.
IF the fuse is blown, it would be a short somewhere in that circuit. It could have been a momentary thing or something may need to be repaired.
I would replace the blown fuse and if it blows again, then you would have to trace down the short.
(Also, with a multi-meter you can check the heater circuits on the O2 sensors by unplugging them and checking the resistance between the 2 black wires in the sensor. Should be between 15-25 ohms)
IF the fuse is blown, it would be a short somewhere in that circuit. It could have been a momentary thing or something may need to be repaired.
I would replace the blown fuse and if it blows again, then you would have to trace down the short.
(Also, with a multi-meter you can check the heater circuits on the O2 sensors by unplugging them and checking the resistance between the 2 black wires in the sensor. Should be between 15-25 ohms)
Great! Thank you so much, I will be checking the cabling tomorrow.
Although I may be wrong I have a gut feeling that this may be a faulty heated sensor. The reason I say that is because the car was driving fine for a couple days and I had never used the sport+ mode. Yesterday was the first day I tried using sport+ and it blew the fuse after a minute or two. Today I drove on the highway 30 minutes without a problem in normal mode, on the way back I put it in sport+ and the fuse blew after about two minutes. I got home, replaced the fuse, and then immediately left again and drove another 30 minutes in normal mode without a problem and then drove another 30 minutes home later without a problem in normal mode. It seems as though every time I put it in the sport plus the fuse is blown, is it possible one of the heated sensors is malfunctioning and drawing way too much current In sport+ ?
Great! Thank you so much, I will be checking the cabling tomorrow.
Although I may be wrong I have a gut feeling that this may be a faulty heated sensor. The reason I say that is because the car was driving fine for a couple days and I had never used the sport+ mode. Yesterday was the first day I tried using sport+ and it blew the fuse after a minute or two. Today I drove on the highway 30 minutes without a problem in normal mode, on the way back I put it in sport+ and the fuse blew after about two minutes. I got home, replaced the fuse, and then immediately left again and drove another 30 minutes in normal mode without a problem and then drove another 30 minutes home later without a problem in normal mode. It seems as though every time I put it in the sport plus the fuse is blown, is it possible one of the heated sensors is malfunctioning and drawing way too much current In sport+ ?
The heaters on the sensors are used to heat the sensors up during start up/ warm up. So I would assume if they were the issue the fuse would blow fast after start up.
However when you go into sport plus mode, the cam timing changes and one of the codes was for Camshaft Position Actuator. I would look there first.
The heaters on the sensors are used to heat the sensors up during start up/ warm up. So I would assume if they were the issue the fuse would blow fast after start up.
However when you go into sport plus mode, the cam timing changes and one of the codes was for Camshaft Position Actuator. I would look there first.
Thank you for the insight on that, I will check that out first, thanks again for the help much appreciated.
Well it turned out to be the 02 sensor wire was rubbing against the heat shield. The reason why it only shorted when in sport+ mode or under hard acceleration and not when cruising on the highway must’ve been the vibration of the exhaust. The wire has been repaired and untangled and the heat shield slightly bent back to prevent contact with the wire.