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I decided to do a mix. Takeda cone filter complete, with RR-Racing heat shield... To Lance point, no "oil gauze filter", I use their "dry version" for all the reasons he mentioned. Even though subjective, the sound improvement was very noticeable. At this point I do believe RR-Racing claims for the heat shield.
If you or anyone is interested to know the "why this battery upgrade" for the GS-F, let me know and I'll explain. Otherwise, its an excellent American made high quality battery upgrade with a real warranty.
If you or anyone is interested to know the "why this battery upgrade" for the GS-F, let me know and I'll explain. Otherwise, its an excellent American made high quality battery upgrade with a real warranty.
thank you bro for your time! and yea can you please enlighten me with this battery compare to the oem? appreciate it bro
Theses things tend to be rabbit holes and most people are usually not interested or curious enough to see how deep they go... I'll try to be succinct in the interest of time as this subject has more to it than what we have time and space through this medium. DISCLAIMER: Don't keep reading if you are not interested in geeky "car batteries" information and please try not to bother reminding me that this was an "intake" thread
Typical OEM & "normal replacement car batteries" (lead acid chemistries) are designed to provide very high current (amps) for short periods of time. The job of "starting" an engine is one that requires a lot of "strength" (amps) for a short period of time. Therefore, typical car batteries are built using many thinner "plates" inside of them as to allow for this characteristic to be present (a lot of strength, for a short period of time). Lets not get crazy and discuss those "plates". Instead, lets say that there is a way (a value) to rate the characteristic above: CCA. It stands for "Cold Crank Amps" and its defined as the amount of amps that a fully charged battery can produce uninterruptedly for 30 seconds, at 32 degrees of temperature, before dropping below 7.2V. The lower the temperature, the "harder" is for the battery to produce these amps. Compression ignition engines (like diesel engines) require even more strength for them to "turn" and start. That's one of the reasons why batteries in those applications (big trucks, heavy equipment, etc.) tend to be so massive.
Another popular battery design (not for cars) is "deep cycle batteries". Found in RV's, Solar Power Systems, etc. In that case (and if using the same lead acid chemistry as above) the battery is generally built using a lesser amount of total "plates" that are in turn much thicker than the ones found in normal car batteries. This design allows deep cycle batteries to have typically 2 or 3 times more "RC" (reserve capacity) than a standard car battery. Reserve capacity is another way to measure battery performance. In this case it means roughly the amount of minutes that a fully charged battery can generate at least 25 amps before the voltage drops bellow 10.5V. The point to understand here is that a deep cycle battery has usually considerably less CCA, but much more RC than a car battery... In other words, it might not be as "strong", but it can "go" for much longer... No pun intended, lol.
All batteries unavoidably discharge themselves internally, regardless of use. One of the biggest problems of normal car batteries is that they really don't like to get discharged too much, or too often (both are different things). Its like if you had a car that you could only drive with a tank full of gas and couldn't go any lower than 3/4 of a tank before refilling so it doesn't break. Car batteries roughly operate between 100% charge to 80% charge. The strength of the battery below 80% charge is also dramatically reduced. If you go any lower, you will also degrade the battery life exceedingly fast. The more times you discharge the battery below 100% (way worse below 80%) the less time the battery will last and the weaker it will become. That is part of the reason why if you don't drive your car often, the battery might be dead in as little as month or so or it will be too "weak".
OK, enough babble, lets go to the blue battery! I basically bought a dual purpose deep cycle battery with a very high RC that is also designed to have a strong CCA value (for being deep cycle) that allows it to be effectively used in any piston engine applications and in almost any condition. That's why, if I don't drive my car for months at a time (which I do) the battery will not go dead and I will not need a tender to keep it topped off. Also, just as important will be the ability of this specific battery to withstand heat and vibrations. Track use exposes the battery to much higher temperatures than normal driving does, this is very detrimental for standard car batteries. Anyone here that has a heavy duty diesel truck like a RAM 2500 could attest that the dual battery set up inside the engine bay is "insulated" as to shield the standard OEM batteries from the intense heat of that Cummins engine. Even with the insulation, the OEM batteries from that application will barely last two years. Once I found them, I have use these "X2 Power" batteries in many heavy duty applications that are regularly exposed to extreme temperature fluctuations and vibrations in the field. I have yet to see one fail and the warranty is a standard 5 year "full replacement" no shenanigans warranty.
Probably the best use so far has been in the wife's car. The thought alone of a standard battery prematurely failing in her car and me having to endure an interrogation on why "batteries don't last 1,000 years" and how is it possible that I did not "see" this coming, was enough to convince me to buy one more X2 Power Battery and quietly replace her car battery as well.
I hope at least someone can benefit from this post.
...Probably the best use so far has been in the wife's car. The thought alone of a standard battery prematurely failing in her car and me having to endure an interrogation on why "batteries don't last 1,000 years" and how is it possible that I did not "see" this coming, was enough to convince me to buy one more X2 Power Battery and quietly replace her car battery as well.
I hope at least someone can benefit from this post.
This sounds exactly like my wife. She had a battery die on her in her Scion tC, and I made the mistake of saying, yeah, it was looking a little sketchy the last time I checked it. What a crap storm that caused! Never again...
This sounds exactly like my wife. She had a battery die on her in her Scion tC, and I made the mistake of saying, yeah, it was looking a little sketchy the last time I checked it. What a crap storm that caused! Never again...
Funny. Have a feeling this can apply in one way or another to majority of us here... To manage my guilt, i wash/wax her ride more than i do mine. Apologies for straying off topic.
Went with RR Racing for the look and so I can pair it with the RR Racing heatshield.
No noticeable difference in sound but that’s ok because I’m doing headers and full exhaust so the sound is going to be changing in a big way soon anyways.
what headers you are going to put? I want to put equal length, but I read that they do not suggest to bet. I can't decide
Thanks designo, happy to hear about others having a similar solutions for the intake. I finally arrived to where I wanted to be in that regard, since there are a few options out there.
The Plenum: Its removed mainly for improving heat dissipation, mainly because of my somewhat frequent track use. Especially after any session when you go back to the paddock and open your hood to let the engine cool off. I use a battery operated fan to help with this, so not having the plenum makes a significant improvement by allowing the engine heat to "move out" much faster. For those reading that might not know, when you turn off the engine temperatures will tend to rise sharply, initially... This is because there is no more coolant and/or air moving through the few "water to air heat exchangers" (radiators) that the GS-F has. With track use, these situations are just amplified, so as owners that care one should observe these little good practices especially if you track it, which I believe, is almost no one here but me. Back to the plenum, when the strut bracing from Tom's is installed, you can not remove the plenum without uninstalling the strut brace itself, which is just a pain. So cleaning the engine and inspecting the engine cannot be done properly when that thing on. And lastly, the RR-Racing oil-catch system will require the plenum to be trimmed or modified so it can be installed. Servicing the oil-catch system might still require removing the plenum anyways, depending on the kind of trimming that you might have done to it.
Most people probably like the "look" of the plenum as its installed, and that's perfectly fine. For me however, its currently sitting on a top shelve in my garage LOL.
Also looks better without it IMO. I know this is old. lmao
Yes it connects to the intake with one bolt only however that can be misleading as you have to reroute the solenoid and as a result you will need new longer hosing for it to connect to the solenoid once you reposition to the strut tower further back.
