lobuxracer

iTrader: (2)

The light for the brakes came on a day or so ago, so I ordered new pads. From Lexus. It's the wife's car. If it were mine, I'd be ordering something from Speedfreaks, but she's happy with the OEM performance, so I won't change it. Because the light is so annoying, I did a quick inspection to determine what I needed to do to suppress the light while I wait for the new pads to arrive. It also afforded the opportunity to check up and see the condition of the entire system.

First - the wear indicator is ridiculously conservative. Lexus service manual specs for pad wear are 9.43mm new, 1mm replace. The light comes on at 2mm, not 1mm. So, if you replace the pads when the indicator lights, you're throwing15% of the factory allowed wear in the trash. Not my idea of frugal at all, but I am sure the lawyers did that, not the engineers. In all likelihood the engineers spec'd 1mm and the lawyers said turn on the light at 2mm so the operator will have to stare at a warning light for a very long time before we go metal to metal. Like 6 months or more...

Second - removing the sensors and shorting the wires with any available technology will turn off the light. Yeah!!! No light while I wait a few days for pads to show up. Truth be told, with 2mm of pad left, I could probably go to 30k miles on these pads.

Third - the rear pads are not nearly as robust as other cars I have owned. Most of them went at least 2 fronts to 1 rear, but from what I can tell, the rears won't last the full way through another set of fronts. Interesting. My IS F has never worn out a set of rear pads in 150k miles. I changed them at 120k because I wanted to match the grip of the fronts, but for no other reason. I could never expect that from the GS F.

Last - if there is interest, I'll take pics when I do the brakes and post a thread. If not, I'll just get the job done. Post up if you think there is value in a brake DIY thread.

hvdcman

I for one would be interested in seeing the pics of involved work. Seems brakes on every car ends up being just enough different when changing pads.

Teutonic

iTrader: (1)

I'd be interested as well. I've done brakes on dozens of cars, but would be interested in some focus on pressing the 6 pistons in (tools, etc) without chipping up the calipers.

lobuxracer

iTrader: (2)

I already did this on mine with a 1" x 1" piece of oak against the caliper and some large adjustable jaw pliers. Piece of cake, no scratches on anything. You can do the same thing with a C clamp if you want to go slow. I just squeezed on the ears of the pad backing plate with the block protecting the caliper.

TrevorR

iTrader: (2)

Any updates to this? As summer fast approaches with track time coming up, would like to replace brakes with something more performance oriented. Really would like to see a write up and am very interested in how you compressed the brake calipers

Also, you mentioned that if it were your car, you would get brakes from speedfreaks, what brake pads would you recommend? If you could link to them that would be much appreciated as I trust your word since it looks like you track your ISF.

mr2dave

Good info Lance. Thanks

lobuxracer

iTrader: (2)

Pads are due to arrive on Wednesday. I'll do a full write up then.

frugaldiva

Are you just changing the pads or the pads and rotors too? My dealership advised that my pads are at 5mm, so they recommended that I changed the front brake pads and rotors. Do I need to change the rotors too? I have about 24,500 miles.

lobuxracer

iTrader: (2)

I would abandon that dealership and tell them I don't like being ripped off. The pads are 9.34mm thick brand new. They are good to 1mm according to the factory manual. The brake pad wear indicator light comes on with 2mm of pad left. If you have 5mm left, you're at barely 50% of the standard service life.

Change the rotors? Not even a SMALL chance. They're far less than 50% worn, and there's no way yours are significantly worn either. You're being scammed by the oldest dealer scam in the book - unnecessary brake maintenance. Seriously, I would run from that dealership, they are not your friends.

frugaldiva

THANK YOU so much for your advise. Being a girl, my service advisor assumed that I don't know any better. I also asked my dad over the phone earlier today, and he told me I definitely won't need new rotors, it doesn't make sense...Yes, I don't know much about cars, but that's why I joined this forum and ask.

TrevorR

iTrader: (2)

Like lobux said, you have tons of life in your brake pads left. Also like lobux said, when the brake lights do come on, they come on prematurely and you probably have a little bit to go at that point. But me personally, I would just replace them shortly after the light comes on.

Brake rotors shouldn't need to be replaced with pads unless the rotors are warped and have significant wear. I've never heard of with maintenance that rotors have to be replaced at the same time. Rotors should outlive pads 2-3 times or 80k miles (Under normal conditions) but it is a good measure to measure them everytime you replace the pads. This is depending on how you drive the car of course, stop and go traffic, etc.

Essentially, you don't need brake maintenance, I hate how they take advantage of women at the dealership. I always go with my fiance so that they're not gonna rip her off.

Coveted

I actually just had my light come on.. Dealer parts department quoted me at $536.00 for front pads with sensors and $620.00 rear pads with sensors..

I'm wondering weather i even need to replace sensors.. lol

lobuxracer

iTrader: (2)

I paid $298 for the front OEM pads with new sensors included. Pretty hard to beat. I spent a while on the job, but it could be done quickly if need be. I spent about 4 hours on it, but cleaned up the calipers and did some other checks while the car was off the ground. I didn't have help, so I only took a couple of pictures. It really is a simple job. Messy as all get out, but simple. Note the open bleeder - this makes compressing the pistons a cake walk, and the fluid in the calipers is the most degraded if you've got the brakes hot at all. Earl's Solobleeders are next!

frugaldiva

Update: I just went in for my service (currently, at 27k now), and my front brake pads are at 3mm. Lexus quoted me $900 for new front brake pads resurface brake rotor. I am contacting the service manager since in Dec, I was quoted $500 for new pads and rotors (I even have the print out for that quote) and now they want $900. I save all of my diagnostic reports. Because I am a women, they "think" they can get more money from me, but I do try to do my homework first. Where did you purchase the OEM pads for $298? I would like to purchase it and take it to an outside shop to get it done. Thank you for all of your advise!

flowrider

iTrader: (9)

^^^^You do not need to and should not resurface the rotors

From another thread:

Lou