Lou,
Thanks, I spend some time watching youtube videos about brake rotors earlier this morning. I'm not going to get new rotors or resurface them.

I went to the mylparts site, but the price listed is $328. Maybe the deal is no longer available. I think I'm going to find an outside shop to put them in after I purchase the pads when my brake pad light comes on.

 

You need the Club Lexus discount code, CL5, to get the $298 price.

Keep in mind, the factory service manual says the pads are worn out at 1mm. 3mm still has quite a bit of life left in it if you're willing to ignore the brake service warning. I have run pad at the track down to much less than a millimeter without any loss of braking performance, and truth be told, even if you wear your pads down to the metal backing plate, you'll still be able to stop the car (albeit with a lot of squeaking), and you will have no choice about replacing the rotors, but the real story is, your brakes are going to stop the car even if you do very foolish things.

 

Oh trust me, I'm going to take your advise and won't change out the brake pads until that service light comes on! The dealer just emailed me back this morning telling the reason for the increase in price is because there's an updated brake pads.

Thank you for the discount code. I'm going to purchase the pads online, then get an independent shop to install it when it's time.

I really appreciate your help!

 

Question, is there any difference in these 2? The more expensive one is the updated one.

https://www.mylparts.com/oem-parts/l...ads-044650w190

https://www.mylparts.com/oem-parts/l...ake-044650w200

 

I just had my front brakes done..

Was told i had to change the rotors or deal with vibration.. Not risking or dealing with that on this car.

Front Pads are costly.. $520 ($370) and they come with the sensor. These were OEM from dealership. (Rear pads were quoted at over $600, i guess due to TVD)
Front Rotors were $240 ($170) each..
I got an oil change along with it for $110.00 ($60)

with labor and tax the total was close to $1600

with my company discount it was $990 total..

I don't have the print out in front of me now i keep them all in the car.. Fender bender put her back in the shop for two weeks.. So rental car pimping right now..

Once i have my car back I'll update with actual's.

 

Per the seller: 04465-0W190 which is now 04465-0W191 is the original part number

Can they make this any more confusing?

 

Actually, not confusing at all. The original OEM pads were more of a performance pad, and have more feel and initial bite. They also dust a bit. The newer PN is a replacement pad that was issued due to complaints from SOME owners that said the pads squeak and dust too much. Use the search function in the RCF, GSF and LC forums and you'll see pros and cons from owners. Me, I'm more into performance and have third party pads on my iSF.

Lou

 

My dash board is reading to reset and dealer won’t do it cause they noticed someone changed my Ecu from a 17’ to a 16’ I’m guessing so that it could be tuned. Because of that they won’t reset the code. How can I do this myself?

 

The warning light is a function of a broken wire. There is a "sensor" on the brake pad which is actually just a straight piece of wire, and once it burns through, it has to be replaced. No way around this. There is NO WAY to "reset" anything to make the warning go away, you absolutely MUST replace the wear sensor for the alert to stop. Of course it wearing through means you'll need pads too. What your dealer is telling you is idiocy.

 

My exclusive and official Lexus dealer here re-surfaced my rotors. It is a very common practice here.
And I will take their word for it because for the past 60 years, they have not been in the business of ripping customers off.

I also will not doubt their choices because Toyota chose them as their regional training centre for middle east and north Africa.

 

Turning rotors is common lots of places, but it serves no value for the customer, and it's not what anyone who races does. It only shortens the disc's service life, and depending on how it's done can actually cause more problems than it solves.

 

It's a common practice because the unknowledgeable expect it. Dealers service advisors, service centers and brake shops know this. It's an easy way to make a buck

Why so many "experts" on the web still recommend this procedure is beyond me

Lou

 

What are the torque specs for the caliper bolts in front of the brake pads?

 

what pads/rotors setup are you running? - ty

 

The only time you should "turn" a rotor is when you have pad imprinting. Pad imprinting causes a high spot on the rotor that can be felt when braking as a vibration. Pad imprinting is caused when pad material is left on the rotor due to the rotor being heated up during a track event or very spirited driving and not allowed to cool before the brake pad is depressed for a long period of time (stop light, etc). The pad material is actually impregnated into the rotor.

You can try to remove the area where the imprint is. If that is unsuccessful the only option is to replace that rotor.

Steve