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My search skills appear to be terrible as I can't imagine I'm the only one with this issue but search is failing me. I've had the Grom VL2 installed since mid-late 2019 and I've had nothing but constant screen flickering when switching to the factory menu. Literally had to unplug the entire Vline system today just to connect my phone to bluetooth on the factory menu. Back-up camera since day one has been random flickering as well. I've just 'dealt' with it this whole time as I didn't want to pull everything back out, hoped an update of some sort would fix it (it won't/didn't), etc...... Anyone else have screen flickering issues when switching to the stock/factory screen, or with the back-up camera? As of today, the backup camera won't even work, I go in to reverse, vline 'acts' like it is going to the backup camera but immediately just goes back to the vline home screen. Factory menu is literally unusable, can't see a thing as it does nothing but flicker/stutter. Thought I would finally post about it as today was just super annoying having to unplug everything just to sync bluetooth on my phone. Thanks in advance.
This sounds like a combination of a bad video cable and a software update fix that Grom will need to supply you. I would contact their support team using this email support.vl1@gromaudio.com, I had the same issue and I contacted their support team and they gave me an app update with logging turned on and instructions on how to capture verbose logs. I sent all of that back to them and within about 2 weeks I they gave me both a new firmware and app update and the backup camera issue was resolved. I did not have any flickering, however, as I mentioned this sounds like a video cable issue, support should be able to help with that too.
This sounds like a combination of a bad video cable and a software update fix that Grom will need to supply you. I would contact their support team using this email support.vl1@gromaudio.com, I had the same issue and I contacted their support team and they gave me an app update with logging turned on and instructions on how to capture verbose logs. I sent all of that back to them and within about 2 weeks I they gave me both a new firmware and app update and the backup camera issue was resolved. I did not have any flickering, however, as I mentioned this sounds like a video cable issue, support should be able to help with that too.
I completely missed the "Back-up camera since day one has been random flickering as well."
I'll email them in the morning. Their email support has been less than stellar in the past and frankly just rude. But that's my only avenue at this point really. Thanks folks.
Not to give them an out, but if they don't replace the video cable in my posts somewhere i detail how to repair their cable to get rid of flickering. I had the same problem got a replacement cable and it still flickered then cracked it open and fixed it myself.
Not to give them an out, but if they don't replace the video cable in my posts somewhere i detail how to repair their cable to get rid of flickering. I had the same problem got a replacement cable and it still flickered then cracked it open and fixed it myself.
There you are, lol. I believe your post is exactly what I was looking for yesterday in this forever long thread. Now I have a username to search with as well. Thanks! As of now they have had me cut a wire from the original harness that they claim 95% of the time they have to tell installers to do as well and it 95% of the time (uh huh) fixes the flickering. Easy enough to splice back buuuut, the flickering is still there just lessened a bit. Back-up is still completely inoperable on the latest firmware. I've sent them some vids showing this and next step is to probably have me start doing some logging. Edit for clarification: Email from them regarding the wire: ***For the flickering screen in most cases, I have found to be the VMTI wire on the back of the display, usually we have dealers and installers cut this wire when they are seeing this flicker and it goes away, not every time but for me 95% of the time at least. If you want to give it a try I can send you the Plug, pinout, color and location. ***
😂 no problem, just giving back to the CL community 😂
I hope they fix your issues . My issue was the video cable on the DisplayPort side wasn't soldered well. I tore it down, cleaned it up and resoldered and that fixed that issue .
To be honest the VL2 has only gotten really reliable in the past couple of firmware updates and I have had it for like 3 years :/
I think they need to start a beta testing program where they give the device for free to people who will them agree to test and file bugs . It seems like they test on one type of Lexus and not all of them, for each release
😂 no problem, just giving back to the CL community 😂
I hope they fix your issues . My issue was the video cable on the DisplayPort side wasn't soldered well. I tore it down, cleaned it up and resoldered and that fixed that issue .
To be honest the VL2 has only gotten really reliable in the past couple of firmware updates and I have had it for like 3 years :/
I think they need to start a beta testing program where they give the device for free to people who will them agree to test and file bugs . It seems like they test on one type of Lexus and not all of them, for each release
yeah I saw the wonderful soldering job from them you posted started with post #212 or so. I didn't see a write-up though of what you actually did? lol Was it simply fixing the soldering issues? I'm quite capable with an iron (<---stares at 3 Voron 3d printers next to me). When you have time and if you'd rather take it to PM's I'd love to get some more detail on what you did exactly wire wise. I'm in no rush, been 'dealing' with it for about 3 years now. Thanks again for popping your head in here as I just knew I remembered someone fixing it and that it was a cable issue but I guess I scrolled to quickly through the thread yesterday.
Aaaaand I kinda saw this one coming lol. Edit: To be expected, especially having the unit this long and me just dealing with it. On me. From Grom:
I just received the video, that looks like it can be a display cable or a video board possibly.
You can purchase the display cable and see if this fixes the issue and if that does not do the trick we can then sell a video board. Video board is easy to replace but would be the more expensive of the 2. Still less then $100
Aaaaand I kinda saw this one coming lol. From Grom:
I just received the video, that looks like it can be a display cable or a video board possibly.
You can purchase the display cable and see if this fixes the issue and if that does not do the trick we can then sell a video board. Video board is easy to replace but would be the more expensive of the 2. Still less then $100
I recently purchased a 2017 GS F and the previous owner installed this GROM unit. What a great mod! Sure, it's kinda quirky, but for a non-OEM navi/car play device, I think it's amazing!! I wish I had installed this in my IS350!
Here's a pic of me "listening" to CNBC on my way home from work this afternoon.
(the DirecTV app doesn't have all the functionality that I would like, but I can at least watch live TV)
Last edited by waterdd; Oct 3, 2022 at 01:20 PM.
Reason: typo
They send me the new cable/vid board, 100% will be taking apart the original cable to check soldering and will be raising quite a stink if mine is as bad as Bob's was in those pics. That's some the worst soldering I've ever seen....It has been 3 years and some change so I don't feel I'm in a position (yet) to ask for a new cable for free. But.....if it turns out the original is what I think it is workmanship wise, you betcha I'll be requesting a refund for the new one I'm about to purchase. I'm only asking them to invoice me for a video board as well so if the cable doesn't work, I'm already in there to try the video board, won't pay double shipping, time in between, all that fun stuff. Edit: Whomever got my ticket this morning though I will give them credit as they have been very responsive, especially considering I've had the unit for so long now. I really should have reached out to them sooner, regarding the flickering and back-up cam, that's 100% on me, I just kinda dealt with it. 99% of the time I'm only using Waze and Spotify. But after having to take it all apart yesterday just to sync my phone, that was it, I'd had enough lol.
Last edited by maclem8223; Oct 3, 2022 at 01:46 PM.
yeah I saw the wonderful soldering job from them you posted started with post #212 or so. I didn't see a write-up though of what you actually did? lol Was it simply fixing the soldering issues? I'm quite capable with an iron (<---stares at 3 Voron 3d printers next to me). When you have time and if you'd rather take it to PM's I'd love to get some more detail on what you did exactly wire wise. I'm in no rush, been 'dealing' with it for about 3 years now. Thanks again for popping your head in here as I just knew I remembered someone fixing it and that it was a cable issue but I guess I scrolled to quickly through the thread yesterday.
Yep. all I did was redo their shoddy workmanship. The issue is likely at the DisplayPort connected, I think GROM buys a GVIF Male to Male cable and then cuts it in half, and hand solders it to the a DisplayPort connector with an internal card edge solder pad strip. I took pictures of the cable layout, then I just desoldered the cables, re-stripped the wiring , added heatshrink to serve as a cable strain preventer, and soldered the wires back on . There was a few cold solder joints on the ground and signal wires. If you are good with an iron you should be able to easily fix it. put everything back together and voila, it worked find. The easiest way to see if it is the cable is wiggle the cable at etc Displayport end while supporting the connector. If it flashes then, it is likely the cable , or connector being loose.
I have a quick follow up tip to share and a also question...
I found that reducing CarPlay Audio Volumes down to 50ish greatly improved my sound performance at higher volumes. As noted earlier (by GROM and others), the line output runs hot (i.e. high). So by lowering the "audio volume" it eliminated the distortion at higher volumes.
(Note: I'm connected via Wireless CarPlay/ Bluetooth)
Question: How do I make equalizer adjustments for the Aux Input? Since the GROM unit takes over the display when ever I select the Aux Input (as intended), how can I adjust my car's audio settings for this specific input? For example, I can cycle through the OEM inputs and select FM radio, and from there I can make Fade or Balance adjustments, as well as the bass, mid, treble adjustments too. But how do I make these Eq adjustments for the Aux input when the Grom unit takes over the display from the OEM unit? ...is there there way to prevent the GROM from taking over the display, at least temporarily so that I have a couple of minutes to tweak the OEM bass and treble?
Yep. all I did was redo their shoddy workmanship. The issue is likely at the DisplayPort connected, I think GROM buys a GVIF Male to Male cable and then cuts it in half, and hand solders it to the a DisplayPort connector with an internal card edge solder pad strip. I took pictures of the cable layout, then I just desoldered the cables, re-stripped the wiring , added heatshrink to serve as a cable strain preventer, and soldered the wires back on . There was a few cold solder joints on the ground and signal wires. If you are good with an iron you should be able to easily fix it. put everything back together and voila, it worked find. The easiest way to see if it is the cable is wiggle the cable at etc Displayport end while supporting the connector. If it flashes then, it is likely the cable , or connector being loose.
Iron I'm good with, what I haven't done before is actually take a DP cable apart connector wise.
I have a quick follow up tip to share and a also question...
I found that reducing CarPlay Audio Volumes down to 50ish greatly improved my sound performance at higher volumes. As noted earlier (by GROM and others), the line output runs hot (i.e. high). So by lowering the "audio volume" it eliminated the distortion at higher volumes.
(Note: I'm connected via Wireless CarPlay/ Bluetooth)
Question: How do I make equalizer adjustments for the Aux Input? Since the GROM unit takes over the display when ever I select the Aux Input (as intended), how can I adjust my car's audio settings for this specific input? For example, I can cycle through the OEM inputs and select FM radio, and from there I can make Fade or Balance adjustments, as well as the bass, mid, treble adjustments too. But how do I make these Eq adjustments for the Aux input when the Grom unit takes over the display from the OEM unit? ...is there there way to prevent the GROM from taking over the display, at least temporarily so that I have a couple of minutes to tweak the OEM bass and treble?
To adjust the equalizer for the AUX input (VLine mode), you need to use the Factory UI button on the VLine user interface. Once in Factory UI you can adjust the audio settings for the factory mode that VLine took over in your vehicle Here is how-to video:
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