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I recently had my fusible link go bad because my alternator went bad which caused my link to blow. (sigh.) Instead of taking your car to the Lexus Dealership hear me out for a few minutes and I'll try my best to save you some cash.
Before we start, here is a full in-depth video on how to follow this procedure.
Symptoms of a bad fusible link:
The car is not responsive
The car will not go into ACC mode
The car will only honk or flash lights
*PLEASE MAKE SURE YOU DIAGNOSE WHAT IS CAUSING THE FUSE TO BLOW BEFORE REPLACING IT! In my case, it was my alternator -- I troubleshot this by unplugging the alternator and soldering the gap on the link and it then started on battery power. Your problem will most likely be different.
The Fusebox will have a black cover on it, go ahead and remove it.
This is where my fuse blew, you can see it is soldered back together.
Tools Required:
--10 MM Socket + Wrench
--8 MM Socket + Wrench
--Flash Light / Head Lamp / Some Sort of Light Source
--Needle Nose Vise Grips
--Small Flat Head Screw Driver To Unclip Tabs
--About 1 hour of your precious time
--Drill (encouraged, but optional)
1. First, get your car onto a flat surface or in a garage and give yourself some room to work.
2. Go ahead and pop your hood and locate your battery, top passenger side. Use a 10 MM wrench or socket to remove negative, then positive cables.
3. Remove plastic engine covers if you have not already.
4. Remove battery and battery tray.
5. Using a drill, make a hole in the bottom plastic at the location in the photo to find the remaining bolt. Remove this 10 MM nut as well as the nuts holding the fuse box in place.
There is a nut on the actual fuse that needs to be removed.
6. Use a small flathead driver to push clips outward on the connector closer to the driverside of the fuse box.
7. Snip zip tie on driver side harness
8. Insert your screwdriver into the little tabs on the connector on the passenger side to disconnect that harness as well.
9. Release tabs on fuse block, and pull up with needle nose vise grips. Patience and your screwdriver will be your friend here.
Remove all the tabs that you can find, and with a little bit of luck and patience, you should start to see progress.
DO NOT MISTAKE THIS AS A TAB. THIS IS A GUIDE TO HOLD THE BOX DOWN. (ON REAR SIDE OF FUSE BOX)
10. Remove the black holder and turn your attention to the back of the block. TAKE A PICTURE OF YOUR WIRE SETUP BEFORE DISCONNECTING! Unbolt the heavy gage wire.
PRO TIP: Mark the new one with a Sharpie to indicate where the wires connect up at, just make sure you have everything facing the correct direction prior to doing so.
11. Keep working at the clips to separate the black fuse boxes from the white fusible link. You may need to unclip a large white zip tie, we did not. Once disconnected, remove the protective shield from the link and use an 8 MM socket to remove the next set of heavy gage wires. (again, take pictures.)
This is the front side of the fusible link without the cover.
12. Finally, push down on the 3 connector tabs in the middle and slide them out. The fusible link should now be free.
Congrats! You removed your old fusible link. Follow these steps in reverse order to install the new one. It's a lot easier than it seems, put everything back together just the way it was, and make sure you have every wire replaced correctly. Next, reconnect your battery and test everything out. You will need to retrain your windows, and here's how to do that:
1. Roll window down halfway (pass, rear driver, rear pass) (USING SWITCH ON THAT DOOR!)
2. Roll the window up and HOLD the switch for 3 secs.
3. The window should now be paired to the master driver window control
I hope this was helpful and maybe saved you some money. Please let me know if you have any questions, and please also check out the video guide.