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2016 IS 200t. I made a mistake while replacing the battery. Connected the wires in opposite terminal and shot some sparks and blew the fusible link. PAY ATTENTION TO TERMINAL + AND - SIDES LOL
I am writing this tip here in Lexus club because I wanted to give back the tremendous help I received from this website. Without these instructions from V8Toyota (https://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-...removal-2.html) I probably wasted few hundred dollars at the dealership. Here are some tips. and what you need. Even though his post was regarding to 2IS, It is very similar except for how the fuse box laid out. This makes it even easier because there is only 1 whole part to pull out from the fuse box. FYI, 2IS has 3 separate parts to pull from the fuse box.
(needle nose pliers or vise grips, 10mm & 8mm sockets, long thin flat head screw driver, fine tip sharpie, fusible link Part Number: 8262053010)
1. Remove the battery. Please use rubber gloves. SAFETY FIRST!
2. Remove the battery tray under the battery.
3. Remove the steering ecu. First the bolts. Then you have 3 connectors to remove, which 2 of them has a safety cap/switch use flat head to release the black inner piece then fling that cap/switch.
4. Remove the battery base. 3 or 4 screws
At this point you should see a hidden bolt that holds the fuse box to the fender. Don’t remove that bolt yet.
5. Come back to the fuse box and remove the cover and remove the bolt inside the black cover, this holds the fusable link to a main cable (probably the alternator cable).
After that bolt is removed use some muscle and pull that cable out. Everything slides UP on this damned box lol. Two tabs you need to fling with flat head. Push up.
Once that is done you will still see a smaller wire running into the left side of the box on the underside and a fat group of cables on the right. at this time undo the bolts that hold the box to the fender but keep them near by.
After both bolts are out pull up on the box and flip it so you can CUT the black ZIP TIE on the both bottom side of the box, be vary careful not to cut that cable. this will allow you some more freedom when it comes to moving things and basically flexing with all of your muscle to get this thing apart. CUT both zip ties on each bottom as it give you much more room.
now that the wire is disconnected reattach the box to the fender with the two bolts. you'll understand why shorty.
now you will need needle nose pliers or something to pull up pieces of the fuse box.
there is 1 piece (1 long black piece)
Use nose plier to pull up while you release 4 tabs in each corner. Nose plier should provide constant upward push while flat head release those tabs. This was the most difficult part. Try wiggling the thick grouped wire underneath to give some room to come up.
now undo those two fender bolts again and get the box out of your way. undo the bolt that holds the smaller black fuses to the fusable link and pull it up and away.
6. now you should have this rats nest of a fusable link and cables staring at you. I took pictures of both sides of the box incase i ever got mixed up or confused. I also used a fine tip sharpie to number each connection on BOTH fusable links and number each CABLE on the metal connection that corresponds. So you should be numbering or labeling 1. blown fusable link 2. cables attached with their corresponding label or number 3. the new fusable link
the back side facing the windshield is all 10mm, and the front is 8mm, undo them and then pull the connectors out last. the connectors were really hard to pull out. I had the screw driver pushing the tab in and pulling the cables (but be CAREFUL) you don't want to unpin anything .
reattach the connectors then the cables this helps keep the cables in place. also try to lay the fusable link flat YOU DONT WANT TO LOSE THESE BOLTS. so just take your time reattaching everything. Lost my airpod in the engine bay while doing this.... had to recover after finishing all this
then reattach the small black connector to the new fusable link by sliding it onto it and then bolting it in place. then attach the black long piece and the white case the holds the stray cables in place. I put it all together and then as a unit slid it back into the box. it is tricky as you have to make sure all the slides line up and everything locks/clicks in place. then reattach the alternator cable by pulling really hard and bolting it back into the box, bolt the fusable link down, and bolt the box back in place, close the cover.
HELP! Hey so I’m in the middle of this and need some help. I can’t, for the life of me figure out how to disconnect the cables on the sides, (step 5). Can you be a bit more descriptive than “fling those two things with a flathead” 😂 I need my car back in my life and it’s like no one has done this to a 3IS other than you when I search, just a bunch on the 2IS and the GS and the fuse box looks different.
3IS Fusible Link Replacement
