So my ongoing issue with my low brake pedal feel continues to get worst. I took it into the dealership and they quoted $5600 to replace the master cylinder with the OEM Advics parts and they also said I need to replace the brake booster.

How often does the brake booster fail, especially at 130k? I haven't had to replace them on the previous Toyotas that I have owned. Has anyone here replaced the brake booster on their GS or IS?

 

Before swapping out the MC and the brake booster, have you flushed out the old brake fluids? Have you had someone press on the brake pedal and made sure the brake hoses are not expanding? How are the pads? If you havent replaced and properly bled the brakes that would be the first thing I would do. While your at it inspect the pads, and also make sure the rear calipers pins float smoothly. Removing the brake caliper pins and lubing them aswell as the backs of the pads will help make your car stop better and reduce noises.

If you havent checked all the above then I would can replace the brake master cylinder and also have performance steel belted brake lines installed.

SS brake lines are pretty cheap https://www.ebay.com/itm/STOPTECH-SS...sid=m570.l1313

 

Yep. I've had the brakes flush but with the vacuum method that was posted on here last year. I re-did the rear brakes and lube the pins. New pads installed all around. I'm going to pick it up today or in the morning. I'm going to get a second option on this. I had the master cylinder replaced early this year.

 

If your brake booster was bad, you would know it. When a booster goes bad most likely you will hear hissing vacuum sound and the pedal will get hard. You can inspect the vacuum going to the brake booster, you might have a tiny vacuum leak or the check valve could be messed up. You can remove the huge vacuum line and with the engine running with your hand block off the line if there isnt hard vacuum then you might have a leak in the hose.

 

That's what I thought. My pedal does not get hard and I don't hear a hissing noise. I was thinking about the check valve this afternoon. I'll check it out when I get the car back.

 

To test the check valve what you do is remove it and blow into it, one way allows air to flow the other no air should come out at all.

 

Take it to a reputable independent shop for your second opinion. The dealers aren't interested in properly diagnosing the problem. They just see the profit potential in replacing all the parts.

 

wow. Let's hope there is a cheaper solution. That is nuts.

 

Worst case if there is damage to the booster, you can pick them up used for $100-150 and labour isnt much to replace. Stealer is trying to stiff him!

 

I'm going to have my mechanic friend take a look at it this weekend or when it really starts to cool down in Dallas. I still have a butt load of mileage to put on my IS lease before the end of the year. I'll keep you guys updated.