AWD driveline damages?
#16
So likely torque converter shudder. I used to work for Ford, same problem, you would exchange the fluid and it would go away. Shops like to replace torque converters for this problem, but it is friction modifier breakdown.
#17
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Sounds like the nail on the head to me. Appreciate your input. Based on your description along with knowing how quickly I addressed it, it sounds like it is unlikely to have much (if any) long term damage then. I hope that’s the case. I’ve taken very good care of this car and would hate to know I caused any major issues by cutting one corner (one time).
I’m no expert but been turning wrenches since I was 5 - 6 years old on a 3-wheeler (somewhat dating myself here... lol) and that “torque” problem sensation along with that description seems right on to me.
I’m no expert but been turning wrenches since I was 5 - 6 years old on a 3-wheeler (somewhat dating myself here... lol) and that “torque” problem sensation along with that description seems right on to me.
#19
There is a video by a Ford tech, Ford uses a version of the ZF sealed transmissions now which are quite similar to ours. He says pretty much the fluid gets dirty, gets full of metallic flakes, and all the electronics bathe in that fluid. It can change conductivity of the solenoids, clog solenoids, cause shudder, etc. Lifetime to a carmaker is the length of their longest extended warranty, so 120-150K. By that point replacing anything is fair game. They have to make money too.
He uses a Ford unit as an example but everything said pertains to us.
He uses a Ford unit as an example but everything said pertains to us.
#21
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Thanks for sharing! Very interesting~
Not sure if I'll be draining the fluid again. If I keep the car, I'll likely do it one more time and if that is the case, I'll drop the pan and do the whole thing more thoroughly as you suggested (ibidu1). Now the shudder is nearly gone and certainly tolerable (when I do still notice it) but there is still a light vibration in the steering wheel when coasting (even in N). Plus, the pull is still there but not drastic. I'm starting to think I had two problems simultaneously and now I probably need to look at the suspension bushings as ibidu1 originally suggested. That would explain the light wobble/vibration, uneven tire wear, and probably why it made diagnosing any single problem so difficult to everyone who has looked at it. To me, it is easier to isolate now that the shudder has drastically improved.
I'm not trying to turn this into a gripe thread but I have been pretty disappointed with the probs (both read about and experienced first hand) that come along with these Lexus AWD systems and some of the probs only specific to the GS's. If it was a solid car WITH these few mods I have done, I'd be game for investing the time/money into it. However, this car doesn't seem to play nice with modifications and Lexus doesn't offer anything stock that excites me enough to stick around. So, if I do end up deciding to part company, it will likely be to switch to a different manufacturer.
I have really enjoyed my Lexus vehicles but Lexus has got to do a better job keeping up with the competition. They had many years to get the 3rd gen GS right by 2010. I've been chasing cabin noises/creaks/rattles in this car nearly since I bought it 5 years ago. Maybe I just expected too much from Lexus after the great experience I had with my 99 GS 400 but the GS350 awd always left something to be desired (in my experience of course). Plus, I miss a v8 with an exhaust!! Not looking good for holding on to this one at this point.
Not sure if I'll be draining the fluid again. If I keep the car, I'll likely do it one more time and if that is the case, I'll drop the pan and do the whole thing more thoroughly as you suggested (ibidu1). Now the shudder is nearly gone and certainly tolerable (when I do still notice it) but there is still a light vibration in the steering wheel when coasting (even in N). Plus, the pull is still there but not drastic. I'm starting to think I had two problems simultaneously and now I probably need to look at the suspension bushings as ibidu1 originally suggested. That would explain the light wobble/vibration, uneven tire wear, and probably why it made diagnosing any single problem so difficult to everyone who has looked at it. To me, it is easier to isolate now that the shudder has drastically improved.
I'm not trying to turn this into a gripe thread but I have been pretty disappointed with the probs (both read about and experienced first hand) that come along with these Lexus AWD systems and some of the probs only specific to the GS's. If it was a solid car WITH these few mods I have done, I'd be game for investing the time/money into it. However, this car doesn't seem to play nice with modifications and Lexus doesn't offer anything stock that excites me enough to stick around. So, if I do end up deciding to part company, it will likely be to switch to a different manufacturer.
I have really enjoyed my Lexus vehicles but Lexus has got to do a better job keeping up with the competition. They had many years to get the 3rd gen GS right by 2010. I've been chasing cabin noises/creaks/rattles in this car nearly since I bought it 5 years ago. Maybe I just expected too much from Lexus after the great experience I had with my 99 GS 400 but the GS350 awd always left something to be desired (in my experience of course). Plus, I miss a v8 with an exhaust!! Not looking good for holding on to this one at this point.
#22
I talked to a transmission guy today about these cars. He is a big rebuilder in the area. Of course we know these trans are the same as the Tundra. I'm just quoting him:
He said the transmissions are wear item, run VERY hot and they are constantly shedding
The torque converter linings are thin and delicate
It is not pretty when they fail, eventually clog the valve body and that deprives pressure causing lots of other thing to fail.
He suggests a yearly service. His opinion - WS fluid isn't enough for these transmissions, MAYBE if renewed yearly.
He said the transmissions are wear item, run VERY hot and they are constantly shedding
The torque converter linings are thin and delicate
It is not pretty when they fail, eventually clog the valve body and that deprives pressure causing lots of other thing to fail.
He suggests a yearly service. His opinion - WS fluid isn't enough for these transmissions, MAYBE if renewed yearly.
#23
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Well that sure doesn't sound good. Hopefully this info will encourage more people who want to keep their GS's for a while to pay heed to this suggestion because when I asked my service "adviser" about a transmission service, I too, was told it was unnecessary until over 100k and skipped it (not even thinking to cross reference that with the forum). Doesn't seem as though that is sound advice.... esp given my research as of late.
#24
What is "Lifetime"? Life of a Dog? Cat? Car?
Lifetime to an automaker is the length of their max extended warranty. After that (like 120K or so) they want you to spend money again. Maybe the fluid could last longer, under very ideal conditions. Drive on hills? Live in Arizona? Have a heavy foot? you get the idea. It isn't lifetime anymore. Also, longer fluid service intervals reduce oil consumption, which is good for the environment and they may even get some credits to that end. I know Ford publishes "Severe Service" schedules, and no fluid is lifetime under those conditions.
If they did publish an interval, people would complain about the cost.
I am probably going to install a trans cooler. No reason not to.
Lifetime to an automaker is the length of their max extended warranty. After that (like 120K or so) they want you to spend money again. Maybe the fluid could last longer, under very ideal conditions. Drive on hills? Live in Arizona? Have a heavy foot? you get the idea. It isn't lifetime anymore. Also, longer fluid service intervals reduce oil consumption, which is good for the environment and they may even get some credits to that end. I know Ford publishes "Severe Service" schedules, and no fluid is lifetime under those conditions.
If they did publish an interval, people would complain about the cost.
I am probably going to install a trans cooler. No reason not to.
#26
Lexus Test Driver
iTrader: (1)
I talked to a transmission guy today about these cars. He is a big rebuilder in the area. Of course we know these trans are the same as the Tundra. I'm just quoting him:
He said the transmissions are wear item, run VERY hot and they are constantly shedding
The torque converter linings are thin and delicate
It is not pretty when they fail, eventually clog the valve body and that deprives pressure causing lots of other thing to fail.
He suggests a yearly service. His opinion - WS fluid isn't enough for these transmissions, MAYBE if renewed yearly.
He said the transmissions are wear item, run VERY hot and they are constantly shedding
The torque converter linings are thin and delicate
It is not pretty when they fail, eventually clog the valve body and that deprives pressure causing lots of other thing to fail.
He suggests a yearly service. His opinion - WS fluid isn't enough for these transmissions, MAYBE if renewed yearly.
Personally I never liked running an aftermarket transmission coolers, the benefit doesnt justify the reward. Aftermarket coolers are not as reliable as OEM setup, and if you get a leak from a hose or a loose hose clamp, then your risk for destroying the transmission is greater. Our oil cooler fins do get dirty and clogged if you simply pressure wash them I think it will help cooling. If you do replace the trans cooler with aftermarket, I think mishimoto kits are pretty stout, of course you can build your own kit with AN fittings and stainless steel hosing.
#27
Intermediate
Im late to the party but have you thought about the U-joints. I just replaced my driveshaft on my IS300 after the front U-joint seized and caused a shake at lower speeds. Lexus wanted $1,100 for a new shaft. I found a use one for $40 and installed it. Runs smooth again.
#28
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Im late to the party but have you thought about the U-joints. I just replaced my driveshaft on my IS300 after the front U-joint seized and caused a shake at lower speeds. Lexus wanted $1,100 for a new shaft. I found a use one for $40 and installed it. Runs smooth again.
have since been modifying an all wheel drive BMW without any problems at all whatsoever.
I had an older version of a GS that I really loveed which was the reason I went back to Lexus. After owning what I believe to be a rushed version of an all-wheel-drive system with cheaper materials overall than before and quite possibly combined with limited R&D and the refusal by Lexus to address well-known/documented problems in one of their flagship sedans leaves me in a position where I kind of doubt I’ll ever own another Lexus vehicle.
2 completely different experience in coming from a 1999 Lexus GS 400 and going to a 2010 Lexus GS 350 all-wheel-drive. I was very disappointed with the engineering of the second vehicle for the majority of the time I owned it (5 years)
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