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Adding a Sub-woofer non-ML

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Old Aug 26, 2013 | 10:03 PM
  #16  
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wow 450 is ridiculous and they don't have 10 inch enclosures??
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Old Aug 27, 2013 | 06:55 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by myfirstgs
Hello all, this is my first post. Yamomma, did you have to do any modifications tor the kicker sub and is it being powered by your factory system? I sent AE an email to get pricing information. Is the AE that much better than kicker?
Sorry for the long delay its been a busy week, you don't have to make any modification but i take back what i said in regards to the kicker sub. Don't get me wrong it sounded good for about a month but I was putting to much power to the sub and blew the voice coil today. I took a picture before taking it out.



In kickers defense, I was using a Kenwood KAC-9105D amp and wired the sub to a 4omh load which limited the power to 500 RMS. But since that sub is only designed to handle 300 RMS I guess it was a matter of time before I blew the voice coil.

With the exception of the rattling it sounded good while it lasted but anything would probably sound decent with the amount of power I was putting through the sub.
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Old Aug 27, 2013 | 07:49 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by Lex Luga
wow 450 is ridiculous and they don't have 10 inch enclosures??
No they don't Lex, and you kinda called it on this too, the special dimensions are actually more IDEAL for 10in subwoofers. It would probably perform TONS better on a 10in performance sub.

Originally Posted by YaMomma
Sorry for the long delay its been a busy week, you don't have to make any modification but i take back what i said in regards to the kicker sub. Don't get me wrong it sounded good for about a month but I was putting to much power to the sub and blew the voice coil today. I took a picture before taking it out.

http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/...psbe51a045.jpg

In kickers defense, I was using a Kenwood KAC-9105D amp and wired the sub to a 4omh load which limited the power to 500 RMS. But since that sub is only designed to handle 300 RMS I guess it was a matter of time before I blew the voice coil.

With the exception of the rattling it sounded good while it lasted but anything would probably sound decent with the amount of power I was putting through the sub.
Yikes! You more than overpowered it LOL!! The thing's built for 300w RMS for a sealed enclosure I'm sure, in a ported box, it should be a little less, and in a Free-Air setup, it should be waaay less. Either way, i'm sure it was a great performer

On another side note, do you have the ML system? Because I see a tweeters in the rear back there. My tweeters are on my rear doors and the front stage is on the front window corner.
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Old Aug 28, 2013 | 09:25 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by XxGoKoUxX
On another side note, do you have the ML system? Because I see a tweeters in the rear back there. My tweeters are on my rear doors and the front stage is on the front window corner.
It's a ML, i have tweeters on the back deck, rear doors and the front stage is in the front window corner as well.
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Old Aug 28, 2013 | 02:13 PM
  #20  
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Looks like adding an amp is a must. I was trying to avoid having to mutilate my new car. Has any one tried, http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewi...908&cmd=VIDESC I found them on ebay. They're based in Bradenton, Florida, about an hour from Tampa. 129 isn't bad especially if I can pick it up and avoid the $40 shipping fee. For those running 12's or 10's are the subs over powering the ML components?
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Old Aug 28, 2013 | 09:48 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by YaMomma
It's a ML, i have tweeters on the back deck, rear doors and the front stage is in the front window corner as well.
Gotcha! Was looking forward to doing my audio system again soon.... With some morels that included a 3-way system in it, and was hoping to somehow still utilize O.E. positions lol..... I will probably do 3-way in front stage (I am non-ML, but the cutout for the midrange is there), and do 2-way for the rear.

Originally Posted by myfirstgs
Looks like adding an amp is a must. I was trying to avoid having to mutilate my new car. Has any one tried, http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewi...908&cmd=VIDESC I found them on ebay. They're based in Bradenton, Florida, about an hour from Tampa. 129 isn't bad especially if I can pick it up and avoid the $40 shipping fee. For those running 12's or 10's are the subs over powering the ML components?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lexus-GS350-GS-350-2-10-Subwoofer-Box-Sub-Speaker-Enclosure-by-ZEnclosures-/300914268659?pt=US_Speaker_Sub_Enclosures&hash=item460fe359f3
I would purchase one for 2 10s..... That is 1.08cu. ft BEFORE displacement of a subwoofer, that gives almost no room, unless you're putting in some cheap woofers w/ a small displacement of .08cu ft.

With this box you could probably do 2 10in JLs (if that's your flavor), or be like me and go Sundown, as I DO indeed loved my 12s

FYI: A friend of mine's did 2 8in Sundown SA-8s in an s2000 trunk, and it literally sounds like a pair of 15s, Youtube it! They used some REALLY small enclosures too!

Last edited by XxGoKoUxX; Aug 28, 2013 at 09:53 PM.
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Old Aug 28, 2013 | 10:08 PM
  #22  
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I've looked at that box before on ebay, its a little small for two 12's but that may not be a bad thing if you want to keep the base down. The good thing is that it doesn't appear to take up much space in the trunk. Personally I like ported boxes but you normally need almost twice the space.

As far as overpowering the ML system, that will only happen if you put two much power to the sub's. If you stay around the 300 RMS rage you should be fine. Regardless of your setup you can always get something to control the output.

Amazon.com: PAC LC1 Remote Amplifier Level Controller: Automotive Amazon.com: PAC LC1 Remote Amplifier Level Controller: Automotive

If you don't already have an amp lying around buy one that comes with a level control and high level inputs. When I blew the 10 in the back I put some 12's in that were sitting in my garage for almost 2 years. I'm putting 1800 MAX / 900 RMS through the 12's now and with the amp turned all the way down it doesn't overpower the rest of the system or rattle the trunk but you feel the base. When I turn the amp up a 1/4 of the way the base starts to overpower the ML system and the trunk starts to rattle. Whats in there now is a bit excessive but that's what I had to use.



Forgive the wires, I moved the amp so that I could get the sound dialed in. I haven't decided if I'm going to keep the 12's in the back, it sounds great but I really need my trunk space.
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Old Aug 29, 2013 | 07:57 PM
  #23  
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You should craigslist those 12s and get that box and insert 10s lol, or even 8s, 8s would totally surprise your buddies (if they're into audio) for the output you get, HA!
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Old Aug 30, 2013 | 10:15 AM
  #24  
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I've been out of car audio for a while. I've used the sundown amps briefly. I wasn't aware they were making subs now. At this point I'm looking for sq. I have an old polk sr10 that is not working, if it can be fixed I will run a single 10 in a sealed box. If not then I will will run a dual 10 or replace the stock 10. I have 3 old amps that can be used. Probably get an epicenter plus (have never used one). Is anyone familiar with a similar sub to the old school soundstream exact subs? Best 10's I've ever heard very tight and accurate. Currently running oz audio matrix elite 12's and components in my dieing civic.
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Old Aug 30, 2013 | 09:28 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by myfirstgs
I've been out of car audio for a while. I've used the sundown amps briefly. I wasn't aware they were making subs now. At this point I'm looking for sq. I have an old polk sr10 that is not working, if it can be fixed I will run a single 10 in a sealed box. If not then I will will run a dual 10 or replace the stock 10. I have 3 old amps that can be used. Probably get an epicenter plus (have never used one). Is anyone familiar with a similar sub to the old school soundstream exact subs? Best 10's I've ever heard very tight and accurate. Currently running oz audio matrix elite 12's and components in my dieing civic.
Hrmm...... Sundown's have been producing their subs for quite a few years now. The sundown amps are solid from what I heard, and use a very general, but VERY efficient design that worked out well. Their products have gone under many revisions, and as time goes by, they DO indeed get better and better with output.

For tight and accurate bass, I would definitely recommend the sa-8 from Sundown, I had a friend install two in his s2000, and maaaaan, they were musically accurate. Not only that but his two 8's FELT more like a single 15in woofer.

I've also been told by a member on here that JL Audio has finally pulled their pants up and strapped down for new revisions in their car audio line, and they've made some decent progress with their NEWER woofers too. So if price is no object, you should check them out too! I've always wanted a 8w7 (had the 12w7 and it had some nice output, but the price did not justify).
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Old Sep 3, 2013 | 09:02 AM
  #26  
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One last question. What guage power wire is everyone running? I know 4 gauge would be ideal but I'm afraid it will affect the carpeting
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Old Sep 3, 2013 | 09:07 AM
  #27  
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I use 0 gauge and it runs with all the wires just fine, just a tiny bit more difficult to thread through.

It doesn't affect the carpeting and there isn't any bulge.
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Old Sep 4, 2013 | 05:06 AM
  #28  
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You people and your large trunks.. :/

/hybrid owner.
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Old Sep 4, 2013 | 09:01 PM
  #29  
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LOL Stoodo, I've been DYING, I mean DYING, to do a custom FB box in a 450h..... With a single 8in (maybe double, I'd have to check for special issues), it'd probably POUND nicely.
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Old Sep 5, 2013 | 05:38 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by XxGoKoUxX
LOL Stoodo, I've been DYING, I mean DYING, to do a custom FB box in a 450h..... With a single 8in (maybe double, I'd have to check for special issues), it'd probably POUND nicely.

Let me know if you do. Where in Florida are you?
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