When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Picked up my vehicle today, here's what got done. "Found left front door courtesy light switch sticking at times and not seeing drivers door opening, causing light to not turn off at times. Rec new courtesy light switch left front door". So that's what got replaced my courtesy light switch, from what I can read the vehicle was never picking up that I had exited it, therefore maintaining the lights on. I' haven't driven the vehicle at night yet but once I do I'll see if the issue has been resolved. All work was under warranty, however the WO states this job (labor and parts) came out to $43.68 that's good news if you have no warranty.
would you happen to have the part number in case I couldn't fix the problem myself? thank you
Any chance you can post the part number for the light switch? I just moved the rear door switch to my drivers door since the driver door switch has gone bad which is a temporary move until I can get the switch replaced. I, too, just replaced my battery due to the automatic lights being left on. Seems that this is a recurring problem.
Any chance you can post the part number for the light switch? I just moved the rear door switch to my drivers door since the driver door switch has gone bad which is a temporary move until I can get the switch replaced. I, too, just replaced my battery due to the automatic lights being left on. Seems that this is a recurring problem.
Courtesy Light Switch
PN# 84231-53010
Sorry forgot to post.
I've had this issue for a couple of years, my fix of taking the old switch off and remounting it seemed to fix it for a while but it's back again so I just went ahead and ordered the switch which was $28 at the dealership (rip off, US sites sell it for $15 but then charge like some retarded amount of shipping so it's still more expensive). It will take about 3 minutes to replace.
Moving a rear switch to the drivers door is actually a pretty smart workaround for that though, I don't know why I didn't think of it... probably would have done that if the switch was more expensive than it is.
I also need to use electrical contact cleaner on the fuses for my HID fogs harness as they are acting up again (not turning on sometimes) the problem was rust proofing treatment which is dielectric getting into the fuse container which is open on one side. I guess even though I haven't done any rust proofing since last year enough of it has seeped back in there again as I didn't do a proper cleaning last time. Pain.
I think I'm done getting the rust proofing, at this point by the car the rusts out it's not going to be worth anything anyway.
Fascinating, this is my first major issue with lexus that resulted in not able to operate the car. Sure I had the valve spring replaced, the cam gear replaced but been a lot more reliable than the last BMW.
I got home at night, headlamp might have been left at ON position (not AUTO), went inside the house and threw a dvd in the player. An hour or two later heard puslating noise and thought it was part of movie soundtrack but finally found my lexus in the garage throwing a fit.
I know I didn't lock the door but the door was locked. (Had to manually pop the door open) So the car must have detected I left the car and self locked. If so I am curious why the head lamp stayed on, (housing was still warm to the touch)
I've been having the same problem with the door switch sticking on my 94 LS400. I didn't realize it didn't register the door had opened, leaving the headlights on & I ended up with a dead battery.
Would this switch also cause the problems I've been having with unlocking the driver door? When I try to unlock the driver's door with the key and turn it to the right one time, I hear the rear door unlock, but not the driver door - and most times it sets off the alarm! If I use the remote, it unlocks all doors.
Thanks for any help!
I've been having the same problem with the door switch sticking on my 94 LS400. I didn't realize it didn't register the door had opened, leaving the headlights on & I ended up with a dead battery.
Would this switch also cause the problems I've been having with unlocking the driver door? When I try to unlock the driver's door with the key and turn it to the right one time, I hear the rear door unlock, but not the driver door - and most times it sets off the alarm! If I use the remote, it unlocks all doors.
Thanks for any help!
Anything that happens as a result of doors opening and closing, that starts acting weird, I would seriously consider one of the door switches malfunctioning. Sometimes you can just reseat it (the bolt appears to be the ground for the circuit, if it's corroded or loose it can cause issues) and sometimes the boot is deformed making it stay stuck "closed" or not be able to completely close.
At least the part is relatively cheap (though still a rip off when you consider it's just a rubber boot, a piece of plastic and a spring).
Before I fixed it I found it helped to have them program the car so the lights turn off as soon as the drivers door is opened instead of having it on a timer then I could stop waiting around staring at the front of the car until the lights went out and at least I knew right away if I needed to jiggle the switch.
His issue isn't related to when the car is on, it is when the car is turned off, locked, and walked away from. The lights remain on and don't auto shut off after the specified period of time.
Hmmm . . . . my 2006 GS 300, the headlights and the dash lights don't come on at the same time my dash light dim. Usually, my dash light stay bright for a while even after the headlights come on. There must be a separate sensor for headlights and dash dim?