Dr. Color Chip?
05-01-11, 02:47 PM
#1
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05-01-11, 07:55 PM
#3
Lexus Fanatic
i think a paint pen would work better. order one for $10 or less from your toyota dealer.
you can even use the same dab/smear technique.
I wonder if their "sealact" is just weak acetone. Even if you let it blob, you could wet sand it flat with 2500grit paper.
you can even use the same dab/smear technique.
I wonder if their "sealact" is just weak acetone. Even if you let it blob, you could wet sand it flat with 2500grit paper.
Last edited by dunnojack; 05-01-11 at 08:16 PM.
05-02-11, 12:50 AM
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u will find a handful of reviews upon search.. including this one.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/aut...view-pics.html
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/aut...view-pics.html
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05-02-11, 02:53 PM
#9
Lead Lap
I have used Dr. Colorchip before and as posted in the review, it's ok as a very quick fix for 'recoloring' chips. By no means does it hide them or permanently repair. They warn you to only use it after you've polished and I've found after a short time it's gone.
Instead, though it doesn't include paint needed, I've found the Langka system/kit (http://www.langka.com/) much more effective. Lasts much longer as you wait for the paint to cure then remove excess bringing it down level to other painted surface. The real tip/key here is to use a toothpick or very fine artists brushes (from a craft store like JoAnns/Michaels) and slowly build up layers of paint until you're above the surrounding area. It's way too hard to be accurate w/ the typical fat brush include in lid for filling in.
The best solution overall, other than clear bra as preventative, is to do the old fashion method (again use special brushes or toothpick) :
- Overfill chip w/ paint (in layers depending on depth)
- allow it to cure 24 hours
- wetsand the blob using 2000-2500 grit (I use a 3 hole punch to make little sand paper discs which I super glue onto the eraser of number 2 pencils.
- once blob is wetsanded level, use DA or rotary w/ various polishing compounds to put a shine on the new paint and surrounding area.
This method works great on single stage as well as base/clear applications and is nearly undetectable. Unfortunately, it's not so effective on tri-coat paints b/c of the layer ratios...
Incidentally, if you go w/ Langka, just bite the bullet and get the big kit - especially first time around.
As for paint, I usually get from www.paintscratch.com and have never had a match problem.
Good luck
Instead, though it doesn't include paint needed, I've found the Langka system/kit (http://www.langka.com/) much more effective. Lasts much longer as you wait for the paint to cure then remove excess bringing it down level to other painted surface. The real tip/key here is to use a toothpick or very fine artists brushes (from a craft store like JoAnns/Michaels) and slowly build up layers of paint until you're above the surrounding area. It's way too hard to be accurate w/ the typical fat brush include in lid for filling in.
The best solution overall, other than clear bra as preventative, is to do the old fashion method (again use special brushes or toothpick) :
- Overfill chip w/ paint (in layers depending on depth)
- allow it to cure 24 hours
- wetsand the blob using 2000-2500 grit (I use a 3 hole punch to make little sand paper discs which I super glue onto the eraser of number 2 pencils.
- once blob is wetsanded level, use DA or rotary w/ various polishing compounds to put a shine on the new paint and surrounding area.
This method works great on single stage as well as base/clear applications and is nearly undetectable. Unfortunately, it's not so effective on tri-coat paints b/c of the layer ratios...
Incidentally, if you go w/ Langka, just bite the bullet and get the big kit - especially first time around.
As for paint, I usually get from www.paintscratch.com and have never had a match problem.
Good luck
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