professorm

I bought the harbor freight one today and it broke the ratchet hole on the first turn.

I now bought a forged aluminum one on Amazon for about $6, so I will see how that one holds up.

hibeam

2008 GS460 update (to this very useful thread).
My Japan sourced RHD 460 had black plastic filter housing end cap fitted with a 1" metal clip on one of the bigger fins to presumably stop the end cap accidentally unscrewing all the way (if not properly torqued up).
Was hard to see and stopped cap removal tool fitting snugly. Lead to chipping the end cap....which was on very very tight.
Required massive force to unscrew end cap, used 3 foot extension on 1/2" socket set t-bar to get it moving.
Toyota specify torque settings for a reason and shame people don't stick to them. It's even stamped on the end cap.
Another tip from ISF forum...tape a piece of aluminium foil on underbody to stop the draining oil hitting the underbody and thus needing a clean up.

08 GS460 08 ISF

professorm

I think this is correct for the oil filter. I used the 04152-YZZA3 in my RWD GS. I now have a AWD and I think its the 04152-YZZA5.

Jontay

I can verify that the 2010 GS350 AWD uses the 04152-YZZA5. About $5-$6 from the Stealer.

"Thank you ....and Good Night!"

bvshearz

How many miles between oil changes if I use Mobil 1 full synthetic.?? What do most of you run in your cars? and change intervals? I just bought a 2011 GS 350 awd

kennyray

Since the GS350 holds umteen quarts of oil, and my wife drives mostly miles where the car gets good and warmed up, I change it every 10K... but that's just me. When I change it the oil still looks like it's in good condition, but time (about a year) and eventual loss of additives, mean it's due. I usually use either mobile 1, or Valvoline. YMMV

AlexDev

Awesome write up my man. Love the details and tips... just did the oil & filter for my GSh; biggest pain in the *** was trying to take off the oil filter cover with a socket wrench cost like 30-40 mins with no luck and a headache (thanks Toyota) so I went and got those cool torque wrenches and took 5 seconds lol

professorm

I have the 08 GS350 AWD. The Oil filter: 04152-YZZA5 comes with a plastic guide looking thing, a large o-ring and a small o-ring. I use the large o-ring for the outer filter cap, but I cant figure out what the plastic tool and the small o-ring are for.
What is the small o-ring and plastic tool purpose?

gs350fan

That oil cap actually has two parts. No one except me probably does it this way :lol:
You are supposed to remove the inner plug with I believe a 3/8" square tool. The small O-ring is for that plug.
Then insert the plastic tube so the oil drains out (I've never tried it, but I think it pushes a valve).
After that use the special fluted tool to remove the rest of the cap.

sha4000

iTrader: (1)

The plastic tool is to make the oil change cleaner. Instead of twisting the whole filter and getting the usual oil that might drip down on your hand or cross member you remove the cap with a 3/8 ratchet and extension. You don't need a socket. Then you push the plastic tool in the hole until it clicks into place and then you drain the oil out of the filter. Once finished you remove the filter housing with out making a mess. It's a good concept but that cap usually gets seized in place and when you try to remove it the whole housing stats to turn. It's quicker and easier to just slowly remove the housing and let the oil slowly drain out but it is a little messy. That small Oring goes into where the small cap unscrews from. This video shows you exactly how it's done.

lws1

I want to use my Mityvac and change the oil on my new-to-me '07 GS350; so I would just need to change the oil filter. Would it be extremely difficult to remove the oil filter without having the car on ramps/jacked up?

Thanks

gs350fan

Yes, the little access door the filter needs the car to be up as bit to push back and get to the filter.

gs350fan

Meh, the plastic tube tool got stuck. Was a pain to get it out. There is probably some easy trick. This is really over engineered.

REALHOKAGE

I know this thread ages ago... i red everything but i didnt see any about changing viscosity... is it ok to to keep changing my viscosity... 08 lexus gs 350 recommended 5w 30, but i been using 5w 20... im on nearly 180k mileage ... was planning to go back to 5w 30 on summer time.. i live in arizona, summer here is so hot 100f is kind a normal i guess...

Is it ok to change back to 5w 30 only summer and back to 5w 20 after summer...

Been using mobil 5w 20 FS extended performance high mileage since i hit 75k... k&n filter (2015 until now)
i changid my oil every 5k mile or sometimes its less... havent flush my oil with additive like sea foam or lucas or any additive for flushing. But i do use lucas high mileage oil additive though, every oil change, twice i use dura something , but i notice my crank case get stain.. which was before using it is clearly clean, no yellowish kind a thing. Now im on 2k away for my another change oil, with lucas high mileage additive on it, planning to flush it with 7oz of seafoam... or might change oil on 3k just to sea if seafoam will work.. my oil atm is kind a clear with brownish on paper towel, still clear on deep stick.

Oh i put oil additive every other change oil, 5.7-5.8 mobil 1 fs 5w 20 and 1 quart of lucas high mileage... but i think its will be my 4th time straight ill use lucas with fresh oil.

just to clear.... when i hit 2.9k on my oil mileage
(currently with lucas high mileage (5.6-8 quarts mobil 1 FS and 1 quart of lucas high mileage). Ill pour a 7oz of seafoam and run my car for 60-100miles not straight (estimated 3-4 days work to home, home to work) (no pressure on gas pedal) ill try to keep it 30k rpm tops. And then (where my question comes) (change back to recommended viscosity) from 5w 20 to (back to) 5w 30. And do another oil flushing after summer, but not with seafoam ill try to use what scotty kilmer recommended, the 505 cro by ats chemicals.


So ....
it is ok to change my oil viscosity? 5w 30 on summer and 5w 20 after summer till it hit summer again.

Btw i tried the seafoam(spray) on throttle body and on vacuum line. It really work... it quite down my engine and car vibration magical gone by 98% i still feel vibration but very little but i think it comes from under not on engine (not sure) because only when i put empty can of monster on cup holder i know its vibrating because i hear the sound but very little. Also i tried seafoam on gas tank.. on very low gas (once) pour the the can and run my car 20miles straight on freeway then fill my tank (full) my gas mileage went above and beyond 27-29 on highway, 23-24 city. Only last for 5 days though or just because i slammed my gas that day upto 50-60k rpm. I have clip video using seafoam if u guys interested..

always from day 1 until now i only put gas on shell or chevron (91). theres couple times on love , qt and other gas station.. only when i go out of town.



Btw- about the filter housing if u dont have the hole where u can put the plastic thing to drain, u can buy that kind of filter housing on amazon, gs 350, i believe there fitting for gs300 as well.

Or if u want mod/aftermarket check it out

https://www.baxterperformanceusa.com/product-category/spin-on-oil-filter-adapter/

For burning oil try to change your pcv valve regularly they sell it on amazon its only $8 or so.

recommended: oil catch can.