take your time no need to hurry, big thanks again😀

 

Here's what the manual has to say about finding shorts.

 

Today when i started the car it got keept cranking itself again, so i restes this

remove starter fuse, it keept cranking
Put the gear in Drive, it keep cranking
remove starter relay, it stopped cranking

so the problem lies somewhere between the park/neutral switch and starter relay.

i also measures volt in the starter relay Connection, and it has constant ~12v in pin 1 and 2. If im thinking right it should only have 12v there when i Turn the key to start?
And when i disconnect the negative from the battery and measure amp between ground cable and negative terminal on battery it draws 0.5A. is that normal?

and ignore my 40a main fuse, it just now when om testing

 

Terminal 1 of the starter relay should only be 12v when the key is turned.

Amperage draw between the battery terminal and the connector should be 0, unless there is something on, like a cabin light. otherwise, there is a short. you can check where the draw is coming from by removing suspect fuses. If the draw goes away when you pull a fuse, you have your shorted circuit. The previously posted procedure from the manual can narrow down where in that circuit the short is.

 

tested it and if i remove the 15A etcs fuse it reds 0v, i have absolutley no clue what to due :P

 

That's the Engine Control Throttle Control. If you're throttle is not having problems, I'd suspect it's normal.

I'd try a test light or your meter in amperage mode hooked up to the starter fuse in the left hand kick panel, then like the section of the manual describes, check the conditions that cause the light to come on or the meter to show amperage. Keep in mind that if this circuit draws too much current, it could damage a meter.

I'm not sure why your main fuse would blow, but it seems like there is a short in the section after the park/neutral position switch.

Maybe disconnect IA2, and see if there is 12v on terminal 1 of the starter relay. If there is, the short is after the junction connector.

you could also try to disconnect EA3 and see if there is 12v at the fuse, that would eliminate the ignition switch, fuse and park/neutral position switch as the source. EA3 is located in the ECM box, so be very careful of static discharge if you open that box.

Here are the locations of those connectors.

 

Your starter solenoid is sticking. You probably don’t need to replace the entire starter but I would replace the solenoid. There is a thread somewhere I’ll repost if I find it

My contribution was towards the end.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/gs-2nd-gen-1998-2005/664237-starter-repair-diy-2000-gs300.html

 

Are you sure? why would it stop cranking when i remove the starter relay then?

 

Sorry misread. Do you have an aftermarket alarm or remote start installed? If it’s not that you’re gonna have to start wiggling wires looking for a short.

 

Had the exact same problem 18 months ago. Would crank on its own no key in ignition. It would STOP cranking if I pulled the fuse on the driver side kick panel. I replaced ignition switch 18 months zero issues. I disassembled old switch and found the grease in switch heavily contaminated with wear particles. My theory is the contaminated grease from contact material allowed the switch to jump post. Fast forward and I find my starter stinking and dripping nasty crap and 40 amp fuse blown a month ago . I am pretty sure my compromised starter (from trying to start itself 18 months ago, shorted internally and cranked again. Eventually the 40 amp fuse blew as cranking continued for a long time. I installed a new Denso remanufactured starter and no more issues for last two months.

 

Howdy - This thread is recent and I'm having a similar issue. I tried starting my car tonight, at first it just clicked, I turned the ignition off and tried to start it again and it started. I turned it off and started it again but this time something didn't sound right I shut off the ignition and the starter kept running, I turned the ignition back to on and it started. Turned the ignition off and the starter was still running. The only way to make it stop was to disconnect the battery. Anytime I reconnect the battery without the key in the ignition the starter runs. It sounded like it was one of two things the ignition switch or a short. Did I understand correctly?

 

I don't know if you can read electrical diagrams, but here are the starting circuits:

Based on this, there can be three reasons - the ignition switch, the starter relay, the starter itself (the solenoid contacts are welded).
Begin troubleshooting by removing the STARTER RELAY or 5A STARTER fuse from the socket. This way you eliminate two possibilities out of three.

 

Thank you - Not real good at electrical diagrams but I can pull the relay or the fuse. Once I pull it, what am I looking for? Reconnect the battery and see what?

 

Yes, connect the battery after that and see.
If it won't crank, the problem is either the ignition switch or the starter relay. If it still cranks, the starter solenoid contacts are welded and the starter needs to be replaced.

 

Ha, your post encourages me to keep a 10mm combination wrench with me at all times in the car.
Now, after checking the electrical circuit, I see that there is no fail-safe protection circuit implemented, and there will be no other way to stop the engine from starting other than to immediately disconnect the battery.