I am attempting a full ABS delete and have had full success until deleting the ABS ECU. I would like this gone as well because I plan on utilizing some of the speed sensors with my standalone ECU. I also would like the space to be open due to the harness for the standalone taking up its old space. I have gone though what seems to be every diagram and determined that the ABS ECU sends the speed to the cluster via the SP1 pin (off abs). This wire starts purple and turns into light blue as it goes into the cluster. I have tried outputting a basic speedometer signal while also going though various values with no luck. My question is, does anyone know if there is a chance that the ABS ECU does not output with pulse width modulation? If not, does anyone know what frequency range they output in? Just to eliminate the chance I will be picking up another cluster from the junk yard but its got me at a standstill. Any input would be great. Thanks! (I have also attached the two documents that led me to my SP1 pin conclusion)

 

Hello,

Is the Speedometer your only concern?

I am pretty sure that it should be some PWD, though I am not sure about values. Easiest way to work out what kind of signal is being sent to the cluster is to get a cheap one-channel oscilloscope like the one below, since I wasn't able to find that info either.


Hope this helps and best of luck!

 

Yes, the speedometer is my only concern. I have tried values ranging from 10Hz to 300Hz with zero movement. The only thing I can imagine is if my standalone was set to output 12v constantly when I first went to configure the speedometer it could've fried it then. Otherwise I'm at a loss. I also had the oscilloscope idea but I didn't know they made an inexpensive version!! If a replacement cluster doesn't help anything I'll definitely be picking one up. Thanks for the tip!

Edit: I couldn't help myself and already purchased the assembled version lol.

 

Does the speedometer still operate? If you can at least turn the ignition on, try spinning one of the wheels to see if there are signs of life.

12V sound way too much for that cluster, I am pretty sure it should be about 5 volts; it is hard to tell, the cluster has its own control module, so the signal sent to it can be pretty much anything, since it is then converted into pulses for a motor in the cluster.

Older Toyotas had a speed sensor on transmission that sent 4 12V pulses per each revolution of the driveshaft to the cluster, where it was then converted to 5V signal and sent to the ECU; the conversion module was known to fail in those clusters. What is interesting is that your car should still have that speed sensor, though this time it only tells speed to the ECU, and the cluster has no access to it.

Hope this helps and best of luck!

 

Unfortunately, since I stripped a lot of junk out of the factory harness the abs ecu will no longer function. The speedometer was working before I started the build. I plan to stop at a junk yard to pickup a cluster as a spare that I can possibly do more testing with (or use if I fried the original one). I definitely agree that the signal type could be anything which is what I want to rule out next. The oscilloscope just came in today so when I can find someone with another GS I'll tap into the SP1 and see what the signal frequency and voltage are.

 

Not sure if you know it, but one very important aspect to know before using an oscilloscope is that it is not just a graphing multimeter, its negative lead is an actual Ground, so you have to mindful of where you place it, confuse the leads, and you have a very good chance to start a fire, don't ask me how I came to learn this fact..

Hope this helps and best of luck!

 

Alright, well I have an update. It looks like I made a goof and switched the two wires I intended to pin into my standalone ecu connector. So the entire time the cluster was simply not getting signal. So for those who want to do something similar simply cut the violet SP1 wire and feed the standard PWM style signal into it. The frequency range is 0 - 180 hz. I recommend setting a cap at 180 (160 mph on the cluster) so it does not exceed the factory margins and possibly cause damage. Feel free to respond to this thread if you have any other questions. Thanks for the help!

 

Huh, that's good to know, thanks for an update!

 

What stand alone did you go with? It’s a 2JZ? Or a1UZ

 

I have a link g4 storm paired with a GTE 2JZ

 

This guy specializes in doing 1UZ/3UZ swaps, but these clips are more focused on wiring up the G4 Storm to your chassis, the trans, fuel system, etc. take a look, hopefully it will help work out any kinks in setting up your 2JZ-GTE

 

Here are a couple more, he had over a dozen different clips for setting up and tuning the Storm and Monsoon ECU’s,

 

Thank you for the links but I've already gotten all of that sorted out. The speedometer was the last part and it has since been sorted. I'm hoping for a first startup in the next two weeks or so.