Got stock twins? Want more power?
#1
Got stock twins? Want more power?
I mentioned this new intake design in my other thread about my aristo swap titled "aristo swap gs430 **** biter", but after experiencing the results after going thru two prototype designs, I felt it necessary to create a new thread specifically to this.
it all started when one day a ford ecoboost with a 3.5 twin turbo v6 came into the shop. I was amazed at how the stock air box had such a large diameter pipe that had to make a sharp turn to feed the drivers side turbo. but the other pipe going to the pass. side turbo was still small in diameter. both of those turbos are the same size inlet so turbo sizing wasn't the cause of the design. i became obsessed with it and started doing a ton of research on air flow and velocity and air speed. lots of physics videos and many articles later i realized the stock 2jzgte air inlet "T" was not very friendly to the first turbo that operated from 0-4000 rpms. now was it much better for the second turbo. So I set out to drastically improve the design.
I looked forever for aftermarket redesign for the "intake air connector" as toyota calls it but was unsuccessful. in japan they sell an HKS racing suction pipe but thats only a slightly larger intake pipe going to the "intake air connector" but nothing for what I was seeking. the only think remotely close was guys in the supra forums running twin intakes. but those who want to still run the stock maf sensor were out of luck.
So I continued looking for something I could fabricate and make work. Thats when I found the first design I went after which was a cxracing 4 inch inlet that split out to two 3 inch outlets. than i jumped on my trusty siliconeintakes.com to source some silicone reducers to make work. once the cxracing piece came in i stared measuring and ordered the rest of the parts. two 3" to 2 1/4" 45 degree reducers would connect the Y to the inlets of the stock turbos. than i ordered a 4 inch 60 degree silicone coupler with a 4 inch pipe to connect to the 3 inch pipe the maf sensor was in. after getting a 20mm pipe welded on the side of the new "Y", i begun putting it together. it went very smooth and I was very pleased with the results. with out a doubt, the car pulled much stronger off the line and most noticeable, the hard transition when the second turbo came online was pretty much gone. because the first turbo was now pulling so much harder from better breathing, the transition was smooth as silk.
But that design i put together irked me. the cxracing "Y" was cool but the 4 inch inlet quickly nozzled down to 3 inches inside before it split out to the two outlets. to me, that defeated the purpose. I wanted 4 inches opening with alot of inner volume to easily feed both 3 inch outlets so the air going to the turbos was unturbulent and could easily make the hard turn on its way to the first turbo.
So while I drove around with that setup on I continued looking for something I could work with that meet my criteria. Having it made from scratch was not an option b/c i just didn't wanna spend a ton of money on custom fabrication. So after a long time of scouring google images, I found my dream intake setup.
It has a 4 inch opening that broadly makes a smooth 60 degree turn that than goes to two 3 inch pipes that are expanded out to meet up with the opening of the 4 inch pipe. therefore there is no neck down. its just alot of open plenum area for the air to do as it pleases. and it just so happens to be almost identical in overall size of my first prototype so i was able to reuse the silicone reducers that go to the turbo inlet pipes. plus i now did away with a 4 inch silicone bend that could potentially collapse under i engine load.
this is probably one of the best mods i've ever done. the results are outstanding. i dont even care to bother putting it on a dyno b/c I know that what I spent was worth it. the torque the first turbo produces now from better breathing is absolutely noticeable. and when both turbos are online, it just pulls like a freight train. i've noticed having to use the brakes harder than usual b/c its at 100 mph in no time. also, on these aristo swaps, the air fuel ratio goes down to 10.1 at high load over 4,000 rpms but now the engine is breathing more efficiently its now moved up to 10.5:1.
if anyone is feeling adventurous, I highly recommend you do this mod. plus the engine sounds much deeper when idling or hammering it. if anyone is interested in the first prototype ill sell it. its got the recirulation valve hose connector welded on already.
it all started when one day a ford ecoboost with a 3.5 twin turbo v6 came into the shop. I was amazed at how the stock air box had such a large diameter pipe that had to make a sharp turn to feed the drivers side turbo. but the other pipe going to the pass. side turbo was still small in diameter. both of those turbos are the same size inlet so turbo sizing wasn't the cause of the design. i became obsessed with it and started doing a ton of research on air flow and velocity and air speed. lots of physics videos and many articles later i realized the stock 2jzgte air inlet "T" was not very friendly to the first turbo that operated from 0-4000 rpms. now was it much better for the second turbo. So I set out to drastically improve the design.
I looked forever for aftermarket redesign for the "intake air connector" as toyota calls it but was unsuccessful. in japan they sell an HKS racing suction pipe but thats only a slightly larger intake pipe going to the "intake air connector" but nothing for what I was seeking. the only think remotely close was guys in the supra forums running twin intakes. but those who want to still run the stock maf sensor were out of luck.
So I continued looking for something I could fabricate and make work. Thats when I found the first design I went after which was a cxracing 4 inch inlet that split out to two 3 inch outlets. than i jumped on my trusty siliconeintakes.com to source some silicone reducers to make work. once the cxracing piece came in i stared measuring and ordered the rest of the parts. two 3" to 2 1/4" 45 degree reducers would connect the Y to the inlets of the stock turbos. than i ordered a 4 inch 60 degree silicone coupler with a 4 inch pipe to connect to the 3 inch pipe the maf sensor was in. after getting a 20mm pipe welded on the side of the new "Y", i begun putting it together. it went very smooth and I was very pleased with the results. with out a doubt, the car pulled much stronger off the line and most noticeable, the hard transition when the second turbo came online was pretty much gone. because the first turbo was now pulling so much harder from better breathing, the transition was smooth as silk.
But that design i put together irked me. the cxracing "Y" was cool but the 4 inch inlet quickly nozzled down to 3 inches inside before it split out to the two outlets. to me, that defeated the purpose. I wanted 4 inches opening with alot of inner volume to easily feed both 3 inch outlets so the air going to the turbos was unturbulent and could easily make the hard turn on its way to the first turbo.
So while I drove around with that setup on I continued looking for something I could work with that meet my criteria. Having it made from scratch was not an option b/c i just didn't wanna spend a ton of money on custom fabrication. So after a long time of scouring google images, I found my dream intake setup.
It has a 4 inch opening that broadly makes a smooth 60 degree turn that than goes to two 3 inch pipes that are expanded out to meet up with the opening of the 4 inch pipe. therefore there is no neck down. its just alot of open plenum area for the air to do as it pleases. and it just so happens to be almost identical in overall size of my first prototype so i was able to reuse the silicone reducers that go to the turbo inlet pipes. plus i now did away with a 4 inch silicone bend that could potentially collapse under i engine load.
this is probably one of the best mods i've ever done. the results are outstanding. i dont even care to bother putting it on a dyno b/c I know that what I spent was worth it. the torque the first turbo produces now from better breathing is absolutely noticeable. and when both turbos are online, it just pulls like a freight train. i've noticed having to use the brakes harder than usual b/c its at 100 mph in no time. also, on these aristo swaps, the air fuel ratio goes down to 10.1 at high load over 4,000 rpms but now the engine is breathing more efficiently its now moved up to 10.5:1.
if anyone is feeling adventurous, I highly recommend you do this mod. plus the engine sounds much deeper when idling or hammering it. if anyone is interested in the first prototype ill sell it. its got the recirulation valve hose connector welded on already.
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Mr Jokster (05-21-18)
#3
Moderator
Seat of the pants reports are fine but to really prove any gains you needed to have a before and after dyno sheet. Thats what I mentioned in your other thread......it would be great to compare before and after.
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Mr Jokster (05-21-18)
#4
Driver School Candidate
I mean...my swap is completely bone stock, side mount intercooler and all. I'd be willing to guinea pig some before and after results as my newbie contribution if OP wouldn't mind sending me a prototype kit? (I'll cover the shipping of course) I know I'm still very much a Padawan here and all, but I'm down to provide some info for the cause...this looks really intersting...
Last edited by GokaiRed; 05-16-18 at 01:00 PM.
#5
now that its damn near 100 degrees here in texas, ive noticed that it still hits over 15psi when previously it would hang just at 15 psi. the other day it was colder out and it blasted past 18psi quicly. i recently installed my turbosmart fuel cut defender 2 which is a great device. it allows me to clamp the fuel cut voltage but than release it again at what i set it at like 18psi. very cool device. and im currently running a 2 1/4" restrictor ring.
#6
Lexus Test Driver
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I think a dyno chart would still show the quicker spool.
It should just shift the power band a little earlier in RPM.
I do like how the step down lines up with the outlet pipes.
It should just shift the power band a little earlier in RPM.
I do like how the step down lines up with the outlet pipes.
#7
Driver School Candidate
heres the thing. i feel like the dyno would not show the all around quicker spool up this intake provides. yes peak horsepower and torque would be read but i truly feel the biggest improvement is in the ability to gulp in a big breath quickly and get to spoolin'. im sure theres some dynos that could log the quicker boost response but im not a huge fan of dyno numbers. yes that mind sound ridiculous but i had a bad experience back when i was running my single turbo on my 3uz. once it was all done i took it down to houston to get dyno'd and we spent hours tuning it and nailing afr's and such. gapping down plugs and what not. it performed beautifully on the dyno. but as soon as we pulled it off to take it for a spin it was falling on its face. tuner issue (likely) but i just feel that ultimately, its what makes you smile when standing on the throttle. not the numbers. please dont light me on fire for those statements, but this intake design is without a doubt ****.
now that its damn near 100 degrees here in texas, ive noticed that it still hits over 15psi when previously it would hang just at 15 psi. the other day it was colder out and it blasted past 18psi quicly. i recently installed my turbosmart fuel cut defender 2 which is a great device. it allows me to clamp the fuel cut voltage but than release it again at what i set it at like 18psi. very cool device. and im currently running a 2 1/4" restrictor ring.
now that its damn near 100 degrees here in texas, ive noticed that it still hits over 15psi when previously it would hang just at 15 psi. the other day it was colder out and it blasted past 18psi quicly. i recently installed my turbosmart fuel cut defender 2 which is a great device. it allows me to clamp the fuel cut voltage but than release it again at what i set it at like 18psi. very cool device. and im currently running a 2 1/4" restrictor ring.
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#8
I'm with it. Up until recently I've done many mods using the convenient and portable Butt Dyno (because poverty) so I won't knock it. If you do ever decide to sell this kit for a decent price I'll still def pick one up and try and do a before and after on the real thing
#11
I had to fab it up in a way. the actual main piece was purchased and than modified to work. but it was for a different application. if you want to keep your stock twins than this will help with that decision. do you run your stock recirculation valve or blow to atmosphere?
#14
Driver School Candidate
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