Shaft play..
03-25-10, 01:54 PM
#1
Shaft play..
Anyone whos followed my build knows this is my second turbo put in the car first time my friend messed it up, and today i was noticing big loss in power turbo isnt boosting as high 4psi instead of 7. So I went to Home Depot to make a boost leak tester, as I removed intake from turbo to bring it in noticed a little oil in opening
and it has shaft play..wtf. I know I didnt buy an expensive turbo (prob should of) but damn. What could be the cause? My guess is my feed and return line sit a little crooked? Or to much back pressure from stock half of exhaust(being changed next week)?
Help
and it has shaft play..wtf. I know I didnt buy an expensive turbo (prob should of) but damn. What could be the cause? My guess is my feed and return line sit a little crooked? Or to much back pressure from stock half of exhaust(being changed next week)?Help
03-25-10, 03:38 PM
#4
Basically I just read this http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/PICS/turb...gerBasics.html its basically not supposed to be clocked more than 20Degrees from straight up and down.
First one was bad because my friend hooked feed return lines up wrong with all the teflon tape, I did the second one my self and it was clocked before I knew it wasnt supposed to be that way. So what idealy is the cause of shaft play?
Ali SC3 Ive been running for over a year with the stock midpipe in place. turbo works perfectly.
you really clocked your second turbo crooked again? not a good idea.
you really clocked your second turbo crooked again? not a good idea.
03-25-10, 04:10 PM
#5
shaft play in or out, or side to side. slight side to side is alright, but not if it is making contact with the compressor housing.
if its a new turbo its probably ok still. loosen up the bolts on the compressor and exhaust housing and you can reclock the center to be vertical without even removing the turbo.
If your manifold is getting in the way of you clocking it straight up and down, then you need a 45 degree fitting off your return flange or whatever angle clears the runners.
thats how I ran it and I only clear the last runner by like 1 cm. Its a tight fit but it drains all day.
edit: sorry already asked what size your feed line is and you said 4an. I stepped mine down from a 4 to a 3an line when I bought my new lines. could help with your oil issue.
if its a new turbo its probably ok still. loosen up the bolts on the compressor and exhaust housing and you can reclock the center to be vertical without even removing the turbo.
If your manifold is getting in the way of you clocking it straight up and down, then you need a 45 degree fitting off your return flange or whatever angle clears the runners.
thats how I ran it and I only clear the last runner by like 1 cm. Its a tight fit but it drains all day.
edit: sorry already asked what size your feed line is and you said 4an. I stepped mine down from a 4 to a 3an line when I bought my new lines. could help with your oil issue.
Last edited by Ali SC3; 03-25-10 at 04:13 PM.
03-25-10, 07:01 PM
#6
But the oil im guessing is prob because its not draining efficiently enough cuz of being crooked. Unfortunately I cant get at all the bolts to clock it without removing the housing from the header, and those bolts our a mission itself to get to, I gave my old snail to a buddy to see if his guy can rebuild it with good internals, so Id only have to do the removal once.
And the play is side to side not too bad but its not good if i press all the way down it will hit compressor.
And the play is side to side not too bad but its not good if i press all the way down it will hit compressor.
cold bout 40 degrees today. I'm guessing when the engine is cooled off it seats back in?
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03-26-10, 08:53 PM
#10
Ok so I decided to boost leak Test my car today and found one big leak in the maf gasket (fixed) ..Other thing is I couldn't get it past 3psi on the guage because of all the air coming out of the BOV (HKS SSQ) I tried tightening the screw on Back but it did nothing..What to do..? Other thing is it used to boost a steady 5psi now it seems to be boost creeping slowly it hit 10psi. And thats with the WG spring modded (cut down). Any suggestions
03-27-10, 08:56 AM
#12
WG line is coming from side nipple on WG top hole is left open, T'd in to the the BOV line coming from vac nipple on right side of intake mani. Adj FPR is also T'd into that source..
Anyone boostleak test there car with the chrome style BOV is it supposed to just release all the pressure thought HKS worked where pressure keeps it closed?
Anyone boostleak test there car with the chrome style BOV is it supposed to just release all the pressure thought HKS worked where pressure keeps it closed?
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