Since there wasn't much helpful info to be found by searching, I am posting some of the tidbits I learned from today's replacement of the fan bracket pulley.

The whole job took me about three hours, moving slow and careful. I'd give it a 4 out of 10 on the difficulty scale. None of the bolts were too tricky to get to and everything came apart fairly easily.

To save time and headache, this can be done without removing any of the cooling system stuff. No draining coolant, pulling hoses, etc etc etc.

I didn't get any pics but if you check out all the write ups and videos of timing belt replacements you can get a good feel of where everything is.

Also, unlike the smaller idler pulley, this one can't be rebuilt. You'll have to just buy a whole new bracket assembly.

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First things first, remove all the air ducting. Take the scoop intake thingy off the radiator, take the filter housing lid/MAF off, take the resonator and elbow off the throttle body.

To remove the four bolts from the face of the pulley itself, I pushed the head of a big rubber mallet into the serpentine belt with one hand and loosened them with my socket wrench with the other hand. If I had air tools, I may have just waited until the assembly was out of the car and then used an impact wrench.

Remove the serpentine belt.

Remove the small upper idler pulley with a 14mm socket.

Remove the timing covers. All bolts are 10mm and can be accessed with different length extensions. On the passenger's side, there are three bolts around the edge and a nut on the face. On the driver's side, there are four bolts around the edge and a nut on the face. One of the bolts is up under the throttle body. I was able to slip an extension between the coolant hoses and remove the bolt that way. A magnetic wand can help removing the bolts if they're harder to reach. Carefully move any hoses or wires out of the way when removing the covers. On the driver's side, you can pop out the rubber grommet and then just slip the plug for the cam position sensor through the hole.

When both outer timing covers are removed, there are two 12mm bolts that secure the central timing cover. Take those out.
Only remove the lower! You'll just wiggle the timing cover to make room to pull the fan bracket. It turns out the upper bolt also secures the water pump. I've had a small coolant leak from that upper bolt ever since I did this job.

Now the fan bracket is all exposed. There are a few 12mm and 14mm nuts and bolts around the edge. Use your new bracket for reference if you're wondering where to look. Lay the bolts and stuff out so you can remember where they go.
There are also two 14mm bolts on the side of the A/C compressor. With the car on jack stands, all it took was a four-inch extension on the socket wrench to pull them out. Not too hard.

On top of the A/C compressor is a small wiring bracket held down by two phillips screws. Remove those screws so the fan bracket isn't blocked by the metal tab.

Carefully slide the fan bracket forward. Be sure not to yank any wires. It can go out through the bottom, or through the top if you carefully wiggle it past the upper radiator hose.

Bolt the pulley on to the new bracket, slide it back in place, make sure you're not pinching or snagging wires, and put everything back together. As the saying goes, installation is the reverse of removal. Be careful torquing the bolts back in so you don't strip the threads in the block.

If you are replacing the pulley because it was making nasty noises like mine, your car should now be nice and quiet.

For those who find this post through search, these instructions may be the same or at least very similar for other cars/engines, I.E. LS400, LS430, SC400 and SC430, 3UZ, 2UZ, etc.

 

Can just the pulley be replace by removing the 4 bolts on the pulley?

 

Yes, but the bearing is not in the pulley, it’s pressed in the housing, similar to how most water pumps are set up.