Noise coming from front end/engine compartment
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 351
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From: KS
Noise coming from front end/engine compartment
I have an unusual noise coming from what appears to be the left front end of my 98 GS4. It is noticeable at low speeds over the slightest bump. It sounds like a plastic bottle bouncing around but I checked, there is no empty oil or tranny fluid bottle rolling around the engine compartment.
Ball joints/bushings replaced 5 years ago.
Any ideas?
Ball joints/bushings replaced 5 years ago.
Any ideas?
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 351
Likes: 3
From: KS
Took the left front wheel off yesterday and took a prybar to anything I could to see if anything had any excess play. The tie rod was easy to move/pretty loose. I shot a video of it but it is too large to post. New tie rods on their way from RA. Will switch out Thursday evening.
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Driver
Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 125
Likes: 1
From: Missouri
The noise you describe sounds like a sway bar link or bushing, possibly in the strut or upper strut bearing. And that's assuming you have no play in any of the front end parts. The movement and noise you show in the video is normal. A tie rod end should rotate freely just as you displayed. The movement in the video never occurs when your driving.
To check your tie rod end, jack up or lift the vehicle and grasp the wheel at 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock and push back and forth.
To check your tie rod end, jack up or lift the vehicle and grasp the wheel at 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock and push back and forth.
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Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 351
Likes: 3
From: KS
Put both sides of the car on stands today. DIdn't get any play doing the 3 & 9 or 6 & 12 o'clock test. Wheel off of both sides I noticed the brake caliper on the driver side had play in it even though bolts were tight. Went ahead and disassembled brakes down to taking the rotor off. Inner brake pad has a metal plate clipped onto the back of it. I assume this is some sort of shim or anti-squeal plate. It had slipped forward on the back of the pad so I removed it ,reshaped it back so it'd fit the pad properly and reassembled everything. No more looseness on the driver side.
Since the wheel was off the passenger side I checked for play in control arms, etc. Front bolt on upper control arm has play and makes a 'click-clack' sound when pushed back and forth. I'm assuming the metal collar inside the bushing has expanded or the bolt has worn to the point of excess play.
So tie rods are okay, per GDWrench35's info and a new upper control arm is on order.
FWIW, Existing control arm is Beck/Arney replaced in fall of 2010.
Couldn't get any play to manifest in sway links.
Since the wheel was off the passenger side I checked for play in control arms, etc. Front bolt on upper control arm has play and makes a 'click-clack' sound when pushed back and forth. I'm assuming the metal collar inside the bushing has expanded or the bolt has worn to the point of excess play.
So tie rods are okay, per GDWrench35's info and a new upper control arm is on order.
FWIW, Existing control arm is Beck/Arney replaced in fall of 2010.
Couldn't get any play to manifest in sway links.
Driver
Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 125
Likes: 1
From: Missouri
Have you tried tightening the bolt on the control arm? It may just need to be re torqued. Maybe wasn't tight enough to begin with and finally worked loose. Suspension components should be torqued to Lexus specs. Depends on where the play is coming from.
Some play in your caliper is normal, again, depending on where the play is coming from. What exactly is moving? Another video showing the control arm and the caliper would be helpful. That way we don't have to "Speculate" anymore.
The metal plate you removed is in fact a vibration dampener to remove harmonic vibration between the pad and the caliper contact surfaces. It will be fine other than it may cause a squeak once in a while. Cheap pads usually have the issue you describe. For aftermarket, I recommend the cheapest organic pads you can get. They're really soft so they don't hurt your rotor as much and usually quiet. Otherwise, pony up for factory pads.
Some play in your caliper is normal, again, depending on where the play is coming from. What exactly is moving? Another video showing the control arm and the caliper would be helpful. That way we don't have to "Speculate" anymore.
The metal plate you removed is in fact a vibration dampener to remove harmonic vibration between the pad and the caliper contact surfaces. It will be fine other than it may cause a squeak once in a while. Cheap pads usually have the issue you describe. For aftermarket, I recommend the cheapest organic pads you can get. They're really soft so they don't hurt your rotor as much and usually quiet. Otherwise, pony up for factory pads.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 351
Likes: 3
From: KS
What is the torque spec on the control arm bolts. If I remember correctly I did torque them to factory spec when I installed them but I don't remember to what spec. As a rule I torque everything if it has a torque value to it. Always felt the manufacturer set torque specs for a reason so they should be followed.
Driver
Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 125
Likes: 1
From: Missouri
Service information says 40ft lbs. I would personally push it a little further. Also keep in mind that when you tighten the control arm mounting bolts, the car should be on the ground with full vehicle weight to correctly position the bushings. Otherwise, they get torqued in the fully extended position and the bushing fails quickly as it is always bound up.
Driver
Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 125
Likes: 1
From: Missouri
1fastnismo. If you don't know where the noise is coming from, then how could you know that you have the same problem the OP does? It would make more sense to start a new thread than to de-rail this one.