Oh boy...

First, rims typically have a 0.375-0.5" of lip on each end of the wheel. Therefore, if you take a ruler/tape-measure and measure from lip to lip and you get 9.5", then that wheel is an 8.5-8.75" wheel.

As mentioned above, you need to measure from inner lip to inner lip to get the actual width of the wheels.

If you shave the fenders and run a slightly narrower tire like a 255, you will clear by a mile.

 

This is directly from the website...

19 x 11 is there....


And please pardon my ignorance because this isn't my thing, but if those are 9.5 rears , why don't they fit the same way as those same tires did or my MRR HR2?

I'm really trying to be logical and get answers here. Everyone is saying its 9.5 rears but not taking into account that my previous 9.5s cleared with no problem with same tire set up...

When I measured, I measured from inner lip to inner lip like mentioned... And the rear was spot on with 11 and 9.5 in front.

No need to get frustrated fellas. I have enough frustration myself.

 

You take the whee off and double check the offsets..

 

Offsets are 20 for the rear. just took off the wheel and checked ... They were advertised as +40... Maybe were made for anything that's not a GS.

Gotta take em off !

 

This sucks...GL with whatever u decide to do.

 

That's the problem right there. 11" Rears with the +20 offset

Only way to have a chance on them is this combo:
*Smaller tire width
*Flush cut rears
*Alignment with Negative camber to help out

Do the 1st two and see where you're at. If it's needing mm's for cleraremce then get it aligned to help. That is, if you plan to keep them ...

 

Eh too much work ! I guess I'll sell. I purchased em with intent to bolt on and drive. Not modify the car to fit the wheels.

Like another fella who posted said, negative camber def would make me burn through tires quick.... This is a daily car... Ain't nobody got time for that!

Spent 150 swapping tires and buying hub rings. And had to spend some more to swap back the stockies. Also one of those rear tires are done for.....

So my calculation is I lost about 400 bucks in one day....


Atleast I got my health.... Right ?

 

I hear ya & I'll take health anyday !

I'm in the small group as yourself trying not to burn through tires as my car is DD, but lowered some. Matter of fact I had an aligment done last week to get close to neutral as possible (245's/265's ) Those tires ain't exactly cheap either lol

 

you gonna need a camber kit and more stretch on the tires

 

isn't the new game is to make the car fit the wheels, & not buying wheel that fit the car anymore?

 

Ok, so with all that's been said so far is........ you don't got coils, so you can't stiffen. You don't want to camber, and burn through tires. You obviously like the style of rim. Why else would you buy them. So shave the fenders and stretch a slightly narrower tire. You should clear. IF for some reason you don't clear, you can always do a little rolling and pulling. It sounds like its a lot of work, but its really not that bad.

 

phone book FTW.

 

I appreciate the input man. But back home in the caribbean there is a little saying,
"You never want the casket to cost more than the funeral..."

And in this case,
Casket = fender mods, rolling, camber kits, buying narrower tires...
Funeral = rims...

All that work will amount to more than the Wheels even cost...
I'm better off selling and buying something that fits right instead of forcing the issue.

 

its honestly up to you.

i just picked up some wheels, and I personally WANTED to roll / shave my fender to attain that flush look ive been wanting to get.

if you want something that fits OEM though without doing any work to the car, sell them and get something else!

 

SO after being on the forums for 6 years you dont know how to check offsets? Not even a clue about wheel sizes?