Sceptre

iTrader: (2)

Yes, that is the one. You'll need another faceplate kit for the GS. If the guy is selling you everything for $25, It's not worth it. You can get a new double din kit off amazon for $12.63.
https://smile.amazon.com/Metra-95-81...+GS+double+din
and the wiring harness and still be cheaper than $25. That wiring harness is also connected to the plug for his specific aftermarket headunit. So unless you get the same HU, you'll need to cut that harness.
I don't know what custom heatshield you are talking about.

No, that wire is not going to go to the trunk. Honestly I don't think that one is for the GS with Nak. That wiring looks way too long. The GS with non Nak has the bypass behind the glovebox, so I suspect that is what this harness is for but I'm not sure.

LexusK

iTrader: (14)

Got it. I was only considering the whole package because I figured I would just flip the DD kit and bracket he has. I didn't know they were so cheap. I already have the JDM DD kit myself.

I'll listen to you and just get the Metra harness off Amazon. I had a shop quote me $65 just to do the bypass which seemed a bit excessive, so I thought that buying the harness already completed would save me that fee. I do not trust myself enough to do it myself even with your instructions lol.

The heat shield is just that reflective shield for your front windshield. My old Walmart one has lasted me almost 8 years and is now falling apart. Brand new, the custom fit heat shield is $35. Guy said $15 for the heat shield and another $10 for the wiring stuff.

Sceptre

iTrader: (2)

$65 is not too bad. Considering you'll need to get some decent tools to do a good job or else it could get frustrating. If they are going to run the RCA cable and Remote cable for the subwoofer too for $65 would be a steal of a deal.
Good luck.

LexusK

iTrader: (14)

This isn't the same RCA cable and Remote cable that's currently connected to my JL sub and amp is it?

EDIT: I just re read your post #14 and got it lol.

socal3

iTrader: (2)

I will be doing this soon. Doesn't seem like fun trying to source a non navi climate control

sbagdon

This is something I was thinking of doing... replacing the head unit, if only for bluetooth (the tape/plug interface has terrible grounding issues)... yet I'd really miss the cd-changer. Anyway, when I got the car, the factory amp had terrible clipping, and was able to fix the amp with a $10 junk-yard factory amp. I kept the old one, so that I could de-solder the plugs from the factory amp, and build a Metra-type adapter, and still (theoretically) install the old system, without cutting wires. Just never got around to ti.

TimberJon

Hi All,
Coming back here due to a car swap. Old GS was Pioneer, new is Nak. I pulled my entire loom out from trunk to front and laid it all back into the new car and then discovered the amp is in the trunk. I see the notes on how to bridge them there in the trunk, but my loom has the signal wires routing from the front of the car. So that I'm not looping around longer than necessary, should I not just splice my amp outputs directly into the speaker wires there near the OEM amp location in the trunk? -__- I didn't mark what is what so I'll need to re-learn my setup. It's been a while. Thanks for your input.

@MoneyBagz I see your matrix man and printed that thing out, hoping that's all I need to get this done.

jefthim

I did my about two months ago and this was my first Nak as well. If I understand your question correctly - you're asking if it would make more sense to run the wires from the amp output to the speaker connections in the trunk? If using an amp yes. I believe the folks that wrote this up years ago were just wiring using the signal for the aftermarket headunit. If your plan is to use RCAs to amps in the trunk then wire from the amp to the factory wiring - yes that would make more sense to connect in the trunk rather than run wire back to the front of the car to tap in the behind the dash.

TimberJon

Ok I thought so. I know to reduce the run and eliminate as many connections as possible. I’ll tap into the sites there instead. I just seem to have a spare aftermarket connector up front behind the HU. It splits off A) into my multi-amp and also into a 4-wire splice that originally was in the loom behind the glovebox. Need to figure out wth that was for.. then should be good to finalize in the trunk and tap the batt. Thanks! o7
A little discovery and I should have it back online.

TimberJon

Ok update.. pulled the run back from the front to the trunk and finished connections. Reconnected head unit up front and now it does not power on at all. I don’t have a multimeter atm but I can get one. Is the cause likely because I had it wired for the pioneer HU and this car had the Nak? As far as I can tell the same metra harness is feeding the red and yellow wires that are supposed to supply power to the HU. Pics soon if needed.

jefthim

I used the following to get my power and ground wires:

The power wires are on another connector These wires on the left are from the orange stock car harness which I cut/connected to the radio harness wires on the right

1. 12v (ignition) = Grey-------------------------------------------Red (ACC)
2. Constant (Battery) = Blue/yellow------------------Yellow (Battery+) Constant?
3. Illumination – Green-------------------------------Orange/White (Illumination)



This wire on the left was from the large white stock harness, cut/connected to the radio harness on the right.

1. Negative (Ground) = Brown-----------------------------------Black (Ground)

FalconF

I will be bypassing the amp this weekend and I want to make sure I understand this correctly. Do I need to run the ACC, Constant, and Illumination from the stock amp to the new head unit?

jefthim

No, tap the ACC from behind the dash.

FalconF

Thanks, I got it installed and I love it. I also created this as its a little easier to use.