I have spent several hours reading through the various threads on problems encountered breaking the 22mm crankcase pulley bolt loose. In conclusion it seems I need a Schley 64300 to hold the crank and a couple sturdy breaker bars to loosen this bad boy. Should hit it with some PB50 before torquing it also. What size breaker bars are recommended? I saw everything in the posts from 20' pipes to 25" bars. Any comments would be appreciated.

 

Do you have a GOOD impact gun with a big air tank? Tons of old school tricks... just get after it and you'll find your answer.

 

I used a breaker bar with a 3 foot extension, and then another breaker bar (2 foot) and I had my brother in law help me, and after about an hour of doing everything imaginable (did use penetrating oil) we just beasted it, we pulled in opposite directions as hard as we could and it FINALLY broke free.

 

I used the Schley 64300 to hold the crank, and my 25" breaker bar to loosen the bolt. I read the same threads as you did, and was prepared to go fetch a pipe extension if needed. But I was able to break the bolt loose with only moderate force applied to the breaker bar, so I'd estimate the breakaway torque was no more than 200-300 ft-lbf. It appears that there is a range of situations out there, some requiring 20 ft extensions, others not. I guess you won't know till you try, so hope for the best but plan for the worst .

 

I recently did a timing belt on another car (almost 20 years old) that was supposedly a pain in the in the butt. I sprayed PB Blaster on a day before and the next day I zapped the bolt out with my impact gun. Didn't need a crank holder to remove it, but had to have it to torque it.

 

I used a 5ft bar for mine.

 

I have the Schley pulley holder tool. I work on 2JZ's on a weekly basis so the tool has payed off big time for me because I use it so often. If you're working on a car that has never been touched for 5yrs+, you will have a hell of a time getting that crank bolt off if you're doing that for the first time. If the bolt has been removed previously, then it will make things a bit easier for you.

 

Wonder if you can do something like this with ours:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2Zu5g95gpqo

Love this way for FWD cars

 

i used an impact gun to remove the bolt, then a pulley 3 prong puller to pull the pulley off.

 

It is 8 years old and this will be the first timing belt.

 

Well finally got after it today. Got every thing removed and got to crank pulley bolt. We had car on ramps and removed splash guard and went after it from bottom. Not sure how you go from top unless you remove radiator and fans. Anyways the 1/2 inch drive broke that was holding the schley tool. Just replaced serpantine belt and hope to find a stronger 1/2 inch drive to hold the Schley tool. Had a 3/4" on the bolt itself. What do you guys remove to get at it from the top of the car?

 

This is a 2002 GS300 with 96,000 miles on it. Bolt has never been touched until today and we broke an expensive 1/2" drive. I mentioned above that I would like to get at it from top of car but didn't have clearance today. Do you guys pull radiator and fans out?

 

I had to pull the fan and intake snorkel out to get to the bolt with the special tool and breaker bar. You can leave the radiator alone just make sure not to damage it while trying to get the bolt out.

If you have a really hard time getting it out then spray some PBlaster on it and try again in 30 min. If that doesn't work then get a torch and heat up the bolt.

 

just use an impact gun.. works every time for me.

 

Impact gun does not work on a 2JZ unless that bolt has been removed previously. I've used 1000ft/lb+ impact guns and the bolt just laughs at the gun.