I have checked all fuses and relays aswell prior to reading with the codes ..

 

well looking at 1121 and it being related to 1120, out of range low probably means the maf sensor is taking air readings that are telling the ECU that the throttle isn't far enough open to get a good reading and keep the system happy. now, you're saying you put the pedal to the floor when you started it, so obviously something is off there, whether its the power going to it, connections or a bad TPS as a whole.

it actuall makes sense now looking at your original codes...the TPS is basically the main thing that controls what readings the MAF gets...if you have the throttle pinned and it's saying its too low to the point where it can't read it, something is seriously wrong with the TPS

 

That was related to the car started ... after ... the throttle would be at 1k then I push gas to make the idle at 1.5 for maybe 1 min seconds ...

 

Will be checking some how all the coil packs too tomorrow .. maybe spark related too somehow

 

hmm...this still points back to alternator man, i gotta say it really does. Even though its only a 500rpm difference, that alternator should be spinning at least 1000-1500rpm (if not more because of a smaller pulley), which is a couple thousand spins of the alternator sending current to be stored in your battery for use. If you're not getting that, the whole rest of the engine's systems will not function properly.

 

it is your alternator. might want to check your grounds while you're at it.

ps. chances of all these components going out at once is pretty much impossible unless you have a grounding, circuit, or power issue. The CEL clearly stated that the circuit is bad, and that could only mean three things: bad wiring, bad ground, or bad battery/alternator.

 

If it is your alternator...you might consider a higher amperage one. Assuming the jumper cable is of correct gauge and the battery used for jumping is strong enough - the car should at least turn over and run off of the jumper cable. Still, considering how much draw your sytem is using, it could have damaged the alternator.

GL

 

James, the code reader (pending it's a descent one) should give you the percent of the TPS... When connected with the car off, it should obviously read 0, and as you step on the accelerator it would increase all the way to 100%... Check that you are getting these readings.
I would also check the fuel pump, easy way is to place your hand on the fuel line coming into the fuel rail and have a buddy place the switch to ON but not crank it...
I just saw this thread, so I'll check my manual see if I can find something else... I personally don't think it's your coils, and if you can get a hold of a battery cart it would help a bunch. Good Luck, I'll chime in later if I have more info.

 

Did some reading, and from the codes you provided P1120-P1126, they all point towards 4 possible things:
1. Accelerator Position Sensor
2. ECM
3. Throttle Control Motor
4. Bad Harness

I'm at work right now, so whenever you chime in, let me know what you want to check and I'll give you the info so you can start testing

Picture so everyone knows what I'm talking about:

 

awesome .. Some Non alternator advice ...

Thanks will check this when I get home Thanks FlavesLex

 

Sounds good, I'll keep monitoring the thread.... Here's a heads up, the Accelerator Position Sensor (APS) has 4 pins, check for shorts on them, I'm not sure if the pins are labeled, I would have to check on my car, but they should be E2, VPA2, VPA, VC...
The voltage range sent from the ECM (ECU) is 0.3v-4.8v....
Check for shorts first, and if it tests good, I'll post some pics so you can check the voltage coming out of ECU, then we'll take it from there

 

sounds good ..


The APS sensor was on the code reader but after unplugging it from the harness and gettgina new MAF sensor the code was cleared, just the TPS now and checking coils and spark

 

Ok, so if it's up to the TPS or Coils, you should have this up in no time....
To check the TPS:
1.Disconnect the TPS plug
2.On the sensor itself, check resistance between pins VC and E2 (if looking at the sensor mounted on the car, it would be the upper left and lower right pin). Resistance should be 1.25-2.35 kohms at 68*F. If it's not within these limits, TPS is BAD.

Keep me updated

 

BTW James, just remembered when I had this same problem on my DSM, it was the Crank Position Sensor.
You can check the Cam and Crank Position sensors just to eliminate that as the cause.. I really don't think your coils went bad, not more than 2 at the same time at least.. Let me know if you need operating specs on those sensors.

-Flaves

 

you are a life saver for trouble shooting , I havent made it home yet but when I do I will let you know

Also I will have to find out where I can find the cam and crank angle sensor ... I heard that if one goes bad then the car wouldnt start either ...

Thanks for the help bro ! good thing we know my alternator isnt bad :P