I'm gonna try to make this a really easy read.

Symptoms:
-clicking/popping on the front end when taking left turns at really slow speeds.

-intermitent steering wheel vibration on the highway around 65 when slowing down from higher speeds. Seems to do it when I start braking.

-squeaky grinding noise on front right wheel when brake is applied at speeds under 25mph, and when car is parked

I took my car in to the dealership to have them check it out and they told me I needed:

-4 New tires $882 (already knew this)

-Front brake calipers $610: dealer said they are sticking causing the pads and rotors to overheat

-alignment $99: just got one last December with my balljionts and tie rods

-Rear brake service $300

Now I know where I'm getting my tires from, and I can get new rear pads and the rotors resurfaced for far less than $300.

The only thing I'm not sure about is the calipers. What could be causing my calipers to stick? Do I really need to get new ones? If so what kind should I get and where from? Any ideas are appreciated. Thanks.

 

I'm actaully suprised the dealership didn't mention anything about bushings. So my search for new aftermarket calipers has begun. I found a pair by NHT that will fit my stock specs for a good price. Has anyone heard anything about them? Any advice on better options is appreciated.

 

It could be "stuck" in many ways. If the sliding pin is 'stuck', then you just need to take it out, clean it up, and then regrease it.

The pistons themselves do no seize up as much, but if they do, you can rebuilt it using OEM parts for less than $50. Just get them cleaned out and replace all the rebuildable parts. For $610, you're better off getting some Supra TT brakes

 

I'd try to rebuild it or have someone else try to rebuild the caliper before I bought a new one. In case you were unaware "rebuilding" is simply taking apart, cleaning, regreasing, and reassembling the part, not a major job in the least. I'd do that before I even thought about hunting for a new caliper. Some places even sell "caliper rebuild kits" that have everything you need included. Good luck.

 

Guys thanks a lot for the good advice. GSteg, I appreciate your responses whether they're in my threads or someone elses. I'll have to call a couple places to find out what the charge would be for getting these calipers rebuilt. I wonder why Lexus didn't say one word about rebuilding them instead of trying to sell me a new set.

 

Looks like I'm running out of of options for brake service. The place where I got my tie rods and ball joints done said that they no longer install customer supplied parts. I almost feel like I'm better off going to a place that offer "brakes forever."

 

Forgive me if i have missed anything, you need 21mm 1/2 socket, 1/2 breaker(air gun), 14mm and 17mm wrenchs, 14 and 17 3/8 sockets, 3/8 rachet of choice. If your smart you'd purchase a brake hose clamp and save some bleeding time, however it's only a few more minutes with a friend and a case. It's about a 3 or 4 out of 10. Of and a jack or lift.

As far as the vibration, welcome to owning a 2nc Gen GS. The inherently has a vibration around 62-65 that will never go away permenetly. I work at the dealer, and i balance them every 5,000 miles, after abour 1000 and going 120mph they will eventually go out of balance enough to want to balance again and again. The best you can do is statically balance the tires and just wait.

 

Bad idea, you will be their worse customer, the GS will eat through those raybestos brakes to often, and i bet they will not cover them. Not sure, never worked there, but have you tried a toyota dealer?

 

For peace of mind and to soften the dent in your wallet, its prolly best to just find a place that sells refurbished OEM calipers. These places usually buy back your old caliper so you are essentially just paying for the parts and labour - no hassle, no dirty *** grease and brake dust to worry about. Just gotta find someone to install and bleed

 

To update I placed a call to a local Monro and asked them if I came to resurface my rotors if they would put on a set of pads that I bring in for my instead of the old ones. The guy agreed over the phone which is kind of good. I ordered 2 sets (front and rear)of Akebono Pro-Act Ceramic Pads from tirerack that should arrive today. Also I checked around the net for calipers and the prices are okay I guess. First I wanna see if mine are repairable.

I just hope my rotors are resurfacable. I heard some places don't have the right machinery for our OEM rotors. Need to worry?

 

OEM rotors are nothing special and can be resurfaced by most shops. The difference is the guy who is performing the work. Some dont even bother to acknowledge that that is a minimum thickness requirement for the rotor. Sometimes they cut too much into the rotor

 

Thanks again, gsteg. It looks like that shouldn't be an issue then.
On the caliper side of things.
I saw some by Arc for $192 for the front. My guess is that these are just plain ol calipers. On the other hands I can pay $300 bucks for some by NHT and go the wannabe BBK look. But I'm guessing those calipers are nothing special either.

I also noticed today that my car goes faster in reverse than it does in drive when my foot is off the brake. Is this normal? It kind of leads me to believe that the front calipers are stuck and dragging, so I'll most likely be needing them.

 

If the fronts are stuck, then the brakes would drag whether you are in drive or reverse. And yes, my car goes faster in reverse than in drive. The idle in reverse is higher than when in drive.

 

So I received my pads yesterday and just returned from a free brake inspection from meineke. They told me that everything is fine. Calipers, pads, rotors--- no issues. Who should I believe?!!?

 

Bump for more advice on this sticky situation. Should I go back to the dealership and tear into them for lying to me or what?