DIY: Jacking the car up
#47
Pole Position
iTrader: (2)
Man Ryan you beat me too it was going to post pics of jacking the rear up since there was only pics of jacking the front up and I was changing my Diff fluid.
Oh well since im here I will post some pics, NO body should have a problem jacking up the rear of a 2nd Gen GS..
Step 1- Place jack under Diff and raise rear up to desired location (*note chock the front wheels with wheel chocks aka two big rocks)
Step 2- Place jack stands under a metal plate right in front of rear wheels
Step 3 Place jack under tow hook just for safety
Step 4 Jack car back up, remove stands and lower car back slowly, remove wheel chocks
Here are some more pictures just to make it crystal clear
Oh well since im here I will post some pics, NO body should have a problem jacking up the rear of a 2nd Gen GS..
Step 1- Place jack under Diff and raise rear up to desired location (*note chock the front wheels with wheel chocks aka two big rocks)
Step 2- Place jack stands under a metal plate right in front of rear wheels
Step 3 Place jack under tow hook just for safety
Step 4 Jack car back up, remove stands and lower car back slowly, remove wheel chocks
Here are some more pictures just to make it crystal clear
#50
Im getting new wheels/tires and am putting mine up on 4 jackstands tonight. Im dont have a floor jack just yet, but I believe I can use the scissor jack to get it up in the air. Can somebody clarify with me where I should place the jack stands. Im ok with how to get it in the air, but as far as where they should be placed. Im hearing frame rail and Im also hearing pinch welds which has me a bit confused. I dont want to bend anyting while its sitting on the stands.
I do see where Ryan mentioned to put the front jacks on the frame rail and I see the picture. Pretty easy, but were should the rear jack stands be placed?
I do see where Ryan mentioned to put the front jacks on the frame rail and I see the picture. Pretty easy, but were should the rear jack stands be placed?
Last edited by Loyalone72; 01-10-14 at 12:13 PM.
#52
Driver School Candidate
Great thread. You can never be too safe lifting a car in the air, a few minutes of prep makes all the difference. I always leave the floor jack in contact with a frame point in case the jacks should move. When I have them available I have also used cinderblocks standing along the frame rails. They aren't supporting any weight but if the car comes off the stands they'll give me a few extra seconds to get out from under it .
#53
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Mi
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This thread was extremely helpful! I’ve been working on my own cars for years and jacking the car up and supporting it safely is always my least favorite step (minus replacing AC Compressor in a B6 Audi S4, all steps were just horrible), the horror stories I’ve heard about cars slipping off jacks... always makes me a little nervous.
That being said, this DIY helped me get my GX470 up in the air safely to replace the Alternator last night. Sure beats relying on hopes, dreams, and prayers when I only used the OE bottle Jack the first time. ;-)
That being said, this DIY helped me get my GX470 up in the air safely to replace the Alternator last night. Sure beats relying on hopes, dreams, and prayers when I only used the OE bottle Jack the first time. ;-)
#54
Driver School Candidate
You're awesome bro!, Thanks for the effort on posting this. I was searching for the same subject as i'm about to do wheel work on mine and making sure i jack and lift my car correctly and came across your post. Very detailed!. Thanks man!
#55
Intermediate
Henry = my hero.
One thing to mention, Henry. The frame rail on which you positioned the jack stand does not run all the way to the back of the car (even though it appears that it does). I learned this the hard way when I tried to jack up the car on that rail. The rails supported the car at the front of the car just fine, but when I tried to jack up the car on that rail at the back of the car, well, let's just say there was a lot of compression.
Let me add one more point here. For those of us who wouldn't know a front cross-member if it jumped up and bit you, Eastwood Co. makes this nifty pinch weld adapter which allows you to use your hydraulic floor jack from the OEM lift point (between the notches). It retails for about $20, and I've used it a few times. Here's a picture:
One thing to mention, Henry. The frame rail on which you positioned the jack stand does not run all the way to the back of the car (even though it appears that it does). I learned this the hard way when I tried to jack up the car on that rail. The rails supported the car at the front of the car just fine, but when I tried to jack up the car on that rail at the back of the car, well, let's just say there was a lot of compression.
Let me add one more point here. For those of us who wouldn't know a front cross-member if it jumped up and bit you, Eastwood Co. makes this nifty pinch weld adapter which allows you to use your hydraulic floor jack from the OEM lift point (between the notches). It retails for about $20, and I've used it a few times. Here's a picture:
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