Car sometimes has trouble starting
Hello everyone,
So I've hit a solid concrete wall. Recently my car has decided to take its time starting. There are times where it starts right up and other times where i have to crank it a few times. I have replaced and done a few things to try and diagnose and fix the issue such as:
-New spark plugs
-New fuel pump
-New fuel injectors
-Alternator and starter were replaced no more than 20000 miles ago.
-Battery is also brand new.
-Most of the sensors on it are OEM and fairly new as well. (Cam, Crank, Knock, MAF, and a few others as well)
I've put a scanner on it and the only thing that comes up is just an O2 sensor which im already aware of (just a wiring issue that ive just been pushing to the side for quite awhile)
. I would really appreciate any advice or help. Thanks
So I've hit a solid concrete wall. Recently my car has decided to take its time starting. There are times where it starts right up and other times where i have to crank it a few times. I have replaced and done a few things to try and diagnose and fix the issue such as:
-New spark plugs
-New fuel pump
-New fuel injectors
-Alternator and starter were replaced no more than 20000 miles ago.
-Battery is also brand new.
-Most of the sensors on it are OEM and fairly new as well. (Cam, Crank, Knock, MAF, and a few others as well)
I've put a scanner on it and the only thing that comes up is just an O2 sensor which im already aware of (just a wiring issue that ive just been pushing to the side for quite awhile)
. I would really appreciate any advice or help. ThanksHello everyone,
So I've hit a solid concrete wall. Recently my car has decided to take its time starting. There are times where it starts right up and other times where i have to crank it a few times. I have replaced and done a few things to try and diagnose and fix the issue such as:
-New spark plugs
-New fuel pump
-New fuel injectors
-Alternator and starter were replaced no more than 20000 miles ago.
-Battery is also brand new.
-Most of the sensors on it are OEM and fairly new as well. (Cam, Crank, Knock, MAF, and a few others as well)
I've put a scanner on it and the only thing that comes up is just an O2 sensor which im already aware of (just a wiring issue that ive just been pushing to the side for quite awhile)
. I would really appreciate any advice or help. Thanks
So I've hit a solid concrete wall. Recently my car has decided to take its time starting. There are times where it starts right up and other times where i have to crank it a few times. I have replaced and done a few things to try and diagnose and fix the issue such as:
-New spark plugs
-New fuel pump
-New fuel injectors
-Alternator and starter were replaced no more than 20000 miles ago.
-Battery is also brand new.
-Most of the sensors on it are OEM and fairly new as well. (Cam, Crank, Knock, MAF, and a few others as well)
I've put a scanner on it and the only thing that comes up is just an O2 sensor which im already aware of (just a wiring issue that ive just been pushing to the side for quite awhile)
. I would really appreciate any advice or help. Thanks- Coil wires
- Coils
- Igniter
- ECM
First, you need to check your coil wires; resistance on each wire should not be more than 25 kohms. Replace the wires if it is more than 25kohms.
Second, check your coils.
If everything checks out. Get back to me.
s it just cranking over slowly? Or is it cranking at full speed and just not starting til it's cranked over a few times? If it's cranking slowly, then it's going to be on the starting end of things, could be a bad battery cable or something. If it's cranking at full speed but not starting til it's cranked over a few times then that's am issue with engine. Possible the fuel pressure isnt holding when you turn it off, so it's to build pressure when your cranking it over, it could be a few things.help me with the symptoms and I will try to help upi point the issue.
So i just tested the coil packs(with a cold engine). From the terminals i got 0.8 ohms on all three packs. From the second test i got 12 kohms. So it was a bit over on that first test, does that matter or no?
And to answer you question dwoods, its cranking at full speed.
Really appreciate the help
And to answer you question dwoods, its cranking at full speed.
Really appreciate the help
So i just tested the coil packs(with a cold engine). From the terminals i got 0.8 ohms on all three packs. From the second test i got 12 kohms. So it was a bit over on that first test, does that matter or no?
And to answer you question dwoods, its cranking at full speed.
Really appreciate the help
And to answer you question dwoods, its cranking at full speed.
Really appreciate the help
Check both male and female connectors and its wiring also. Attached is a link to a very contact cleaner.
s it just cranking over slowly? Or is it cranking at full speed and just not starting til it's cranked over a few times? If it's cranking slowly, then it's going to be on the starting end of things, could be a bad battery cable or something. If it's cranking at full speed but not starting til it's cranked over a few times then that's am issue with engine. Possible the fuel pressure isnt holding when you turn it off, so it's to build pressure when your cranking it over, it could be a few things.help me with the symptoms and I will try to help upi point the issue.
Trending Topics
Update
Car doesnt want to turn on anymore. Im assuming whatever the component that was causing the problem finally crapped out. I did just replaced the coil pack connector wires and fuel pump regulator. Problem still exist unfortunately. I saw that there is a fuel pressure sensor on the firewall. Just purchased that and wait to see if it works. Any help or guidance is much appreciated
Car doesnt want to turn on anymore. Im assuming whatever the component that was causing the problem finally crapped out. I did just replaced the coil pack connector wires and fuel pump regulator. Problem still exist unfortunately. I saw that there is a fuel pressure sensor on the firewall. Just purchased that and wait to see if it works. Any help or guidance is much appreciated
Sorry for the late update life has been busy. Problem was solved, it ended up being the whole harness from the igniter to the spark plug connectors. I found a guy on ebay that makes them and makes them pretty beefy so its damn near indestructible. It was a little pricey but well worth it in my opinion. Car has been running great!
Until now I'm running into issues with the immobilization of the car. Lately the security light right under the drivers side ac vent will not go off when i put the key in and the car will crank but wont start. Got a guy to look at it and he just said that my car keys are good, that my immobilizer is the problem. I did ask if i could reprogram but said that it would cost me a fortune. I did read somewhere else that if you changed your steering wheel that that could be the problem as well which i did. But i dont have anyway of confirming that. Was wondering if anyone knew any other solution or diags i can run on it. I do have a dongle, its the Topdon Topscan Pro. The only code i got was B2796 which is for immo but i still cant figure it out. Thanks for the help
Until now I'm running into issues with the immobilization of the car. Lately the security light right under the drivers side ac vent will not go off when i put the key in and the car will crank but wont start. Got a guy to look at it and he just said that my car keys are good, that my immobilizer is the problem. I did ask if i could reprogram but said that it would cost me a fortune. I did read somewhere else that if you changed your steering wheel that that could be the problem as well which i did. But i dont have anyway of confirming that. Was wondering if anyone knew any other solution or diags i can run on it. I do have a dongle, its the Topdon Topscan Pro. The only code i got was B2796 which is for immo but i still cant figure it out. Thanks for the help
The imobilizer is usally the ecu. I had the same problem i found a guy who does imobilizer deletes and with the 2nd gen gs300 he said if the imobilizer not going off its almost always the ecu and if he did delete it it still wouldn't work. So I changed my ecu and the problem went away but what sucked is I bought a referbished ecu from some website and it was like 4 months late to get me But it worked. Going 2 years now. Also I learned some l tricks for dealing with the bad ecu I don't know why but if you leave the key in for like 10 minutes the imobilizer light would turn off like 50 percent of the time.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post










