Hello,

My 95 Lexus GS 300 recently has been cutting off right after it starts. The few times that I can get it into drive, the car sputters then shuts off. I don't really have the dough to pay for a diagnostic. All the research (google, yahoo, etc) that I've done, leads me to believe its the fuel pump.

I'm hoping that someone can give me more insight on how to diagnose and replace a bad fuel pump on a budget. I really need my car. Thank you for your assistance in advance.

My searches on this forum yielded the following; https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sea...archid=2227529

 

Pull the return line off the bottom of the drivers side under the intake manifold put a hose on it into a bucket then under the dash is a diagnostic port. Short terminals FP and B+ together with key on I think. Then watch the flow into the bucket. Should be forceful and steady. Just imagine a scaled down garden hose.

If its not good and steady its your pump. Sadly I just tossed my old pump and it was still good. You can get a walbro for $9 unless you can find a quality replacement cheaper. If it is just post here and I'll walk you through the r&r.

 

Nixspeed thank you for your time & assistance. I'm going to do what you recommended and reply once finished. I'm assuming the $9 figure was the cost to replace the pump if necessary. That makes me feel better already. Most "commercial" auto parts stores wanted $250+ for a pump replacement.

 

Oops $90 for the pump. Yeah OE pumps aren't cheap which is why I suggest a walbro unit for a lot cheaper.

 

Nixspeed, It was a long week. I hope yours was better than mine. I had no luck with the following..

Pull the return line off the bottom of the drivers side under the intake manifold put a hose on it into a bucket then under the dash is a diagnostic. (I couldn't find the hose. Are photos on here anywhere?)


Short terminals FP and B+ together with key on I think. (I'm slightly slow, but I think I need a diagnostic machine of some sort for this, right?)

Are there any other ways I can test the pump? (other than the symptoms and by sound)

 

You only need a paper clip or similar wire to jump the terminals on the diagnostic port. It is under the dash and its a little round piece with a door type cover about the size of a quarter.

If you jack up the car there are 2 lines running from the back to front pretty much under the drivers seat area. Some of it is covered with heat shield either steel or plastic. The steel are bigger pieces closer to the exhaust system the plastic is long and thin about 4" wide. If you follow those forward about where the floor pan starts curving up to become the firewall is where you'll find a connection for the fuel lines. The pressure side is a screw together fitting and the return side just has a clamp where the metal line turns into rubber. I'm going off memory so I hope this is accurate and I hope it helps.

 

Just an update on this. I ended up replacing the fuel pump and also messing up the fuel lines in 1 or 2 settings. Total working time about 2 hours. I'll post photos of the fuel filter location and fuel pump when accessed by removing the backseats and the black panel.

The issue ended up being the ECM (computer). Code 14 - Signal Circuit Malfunction. Lexus wants $1400. $1k for the PC $400 for programming and labor. Another shop wants $500 for the ECM and I see a few ranging from $150 to $250 on EBAY. anyone know why there's such a large difference in cost from location to location? How would I know if I'm getting a good or bad ECM? Part # is 89661-3068284 (remanufactured)

 

What exactly is wrong with the ECM? If its just a blown capacitor ,which is very common, there are companies that can repair it. I just recently sent my ECM to repaired at LEXTEXH.org. It only cost $80 plus shipping.

 

Thanks TRACKMKIII, I found an ECM for $160 after programming and install, the dealer set me back about $480. On the bright side, the car is running very well.