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The wind just took my left-side driver's door on my 2020 ES350 UL and banged it against a lamppost. The damage (dent) was limited to what is called the Upper Molding (picture of my molding and picture of the parts diagram, attached). Has anyone replaced this themselves?
The molding P/N is 75072-06080 (I would appreciate someone confirming that I found the right P/N). The parts diagram also shows 1) a Corner Molding Nut (#3), 2) a Door Reveal Molding Rivet (#5), and 3) a Black Out Tape (#7). I wonder if I need all of these parts as well. Since they say the Black Out Tape is not reused, I'm thinking it might be a double-sided adhesive strip to attach the molding.
The wind just took my left-side driver's door on my 2020 ES350 UL and banged it against a lamppost. The damage (dent) was limited to what is called the Upper Molding (picture of my molding and picture of the parts diagram, attached). Has anyone replaced this themselves?
The molding P/N is 75072-06080 (I would appreciate someone confirming that I found the right P/N). The parts diagram also shows 1) a Corner Molding Nut (#3), 2) a Door Reveal Molding Rivet (#5), and 3) a Black Out Tape (#7). I wonder if I need all of these parts as well. Since they say the Black Out Tape is not reused, I'm thinking it might be a double-sided adhesive strip to attach the molding.
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I think you've got the right parts but it doesn't look to be the easiest of trim pieces to replace. If you've ever worked with flush pop rivets you'll have a good idea of at least some of the work involved.
Those procedures have steps to remove/install other front door components. I don't know whether there's workarounds to allow you to bypass some of those. If needed you can find most of the called for removal and installation procedures under the Front Door indexed links and the Exterior Panels - Trim indexed links specifically the "Black Out Tape (for Front Door)", "Front Door Belt Moulding", and "Front Door Window Frame Moulding" (the index page with index links to the above Removal and Installation references) entries.
Hopefully, someone with actual experience in replacing that trim piece will chime in and provide some practical guidance and tips on accomplishing the replacement.
I think you've got the right parts but it doesn't look to be the easiest of trim pieces to replace. If you've ever worked with flush pop rivets you'll have a good idea of at least some of the work involved.
Those procedures have steps to remove/install other front door components. I don't know whether there's workarounds to allow you to bypass some of those. If needed you can find most of the called for removal and installation procedures under the Front Door indexed links and the Exterior Panels - Trim indexed links specifically the "Black Out Tape (for Front Door)", "Front Door Belt Moulding", and "Front Door Window Frame Moulding" (the index page with index links to the above Removal and Installation references) entries.
Hopefully, someone with actual experience in replacing that trim piece will chime in and provide some practical guidance and tips on accomplishing the replacement.
Thanks grp52. I'm reasonably comfortable doing mechanical work on a car, but not so much body work. Especially since the car's exterior, until today, was flawless. Let's hope we hear from someone who has tackled this exact job.
Thanks grp52. I'm reasonably comfortable doing mechanical work on a car, but not so much body work. Especially since the car's exterior, until today, was flawless. Let's hope we hear from someone who has tackled this exact job.
I ended up bringing the job to my local body shop. As usual, they did a great job. Cost was $235 and I would have had to spend more than half of that just for parts (at discounted prices). As a parting gift the shop gave me a pic showing how they had to remove the inside door panel. Happy I didn't tackle that job.
I ended up bringing the job to my local body shop. As usual, they did a great job. Cost was $235 and I would have had to spend more than half of that just for parts (at discounted prices). As a parting gift the shop gave me a pic showing how they had to remove the inside door panel. Happy I didn't tackle that job.
For parts and labor that's a really reasonable cost to my thinking. Unless you're some sort of DIY fiend, just avoiding the hassle and stress of getting the replacement done right is worth what you paid for the job.
For parts and labor that's a really reasonable cost to my thinking. Unless you're some sort of DIY fiend, just avoiding the hassle and stress of getting the replacement done right is worth what you paid for the job.
Yep, they said it took 0.75 hours. I would have taken 4 hours and gotten it wrong!
For parts and labor that's a really reasonable cost to my thinking. Unless you're some sort of DIY fiend, just avoiding the hassle and stress of getting the replacement done right is worth what you paid for the job.
I can definitely relate to your choice. Normally I would go the DYI route but when it came time to install my dashcam and running wires, I chickened out at the thought of snapping plastic and having to deal with dreaded rattles.
Oops - Need To Replace Left Front Upper Molding
