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Noticed a drop or two of oil about 2 months ago and took to an indy shop for diagnosis a month later. Guy said it was oil pan gasket leak. Paid $550 to have it resealed. Since this was just when the virus concerns just started, I didn't use the car much and noticed quite a few extra drops last week. Today I jacked up the car and crawled underneath to locate it and get some pics. Pictures are below.
Based on what I googled and saw, it could be the dreaded Timing chain cover leak or perhaps an optimistic banjo valve leak. I know the pictures show quite a bit of oil and make it hard to spot the source, but can any one help identify or confirm the issue here?
Did the mechanic miss it previously as the oil drops(type) are exactly the same as before? roughly the same location or is it simply bad coincidence.
Yes. It seems like the VVT-i washer is bad so you have to replace it and you have to tighten the bolt. It goes behind the power steering pump.
This has nothing to do with the oil pan and I bet you any money the pan seal was good back then so the guy just took that money from you for nothing.
When oil leaks, it spreads downward, so it is easy to misdiagnose where it is coming from. Years ago, I had an oil leak in my MR2 and couldn't trace it. So, I found a kit composed of liquid dye, a UV flashlight and UV glasses. The way it works is you clean your engine with degreaser, then you add the dye to your oil. After a 10-30 miles of driving, you use the light and glasses to find the source of the leak. In my case, the leak was coming from the camshaft seals.
Common leaks in Toyota/Lexus (and all cars) are due to worn or cooked seals and gaskets, in particular, the valve cover gaskets, PVC hoses, power steering pump/hoses, crank seals, VVTi hoses, but all are suspect until you do a dye test.
All the cars that had the VVT-i hose replaced by the dealer have this problem. They replaced only the hose and not the washer, and the washer cannot be used twice.
Yes. It seems like the VVT-i washer is bad so you have to replace it and you have to tighten the bolt. It goes behind the power steering pump.
This has nothing to do with the oil pan and I bet you any money the pan seal was good back then so the guy just took that money from you for nothing.
Thanks Ljekses and Wilson. Appreciate the responses.
Any other way to confirm this being a VVT-i washer?
Assuming not an easy DIY fix,any idea what the dealership(No VA area) will charge to fix this?. Thought I'd try the Idy shop route, but looks like you get screwed either way.
Can I drive this for a few weeks very sparingly before taking it in to get fixed? Assuming this is engine oil. So does monitoring the oil level and using lightly cause any damage?
Thanks Ljekses and Wilson. Appreciate the responses.
Any other way to confirm this being a VVT-i washer?
Assuming not an easy DIY fix,any idea what the dealership(No VA area) will charge to fix this?. Thought I'd try the Idy shop route, but looks like you get screwed either way.
Can I drive this for a few weeks very sparingly before taking it in to get fixed? Assuming this is engine oil. So does monitoring the oil level and using lightly cause any damage?
You can drive it for as long as you can tolerate adding oil and mucking up your parking space. Speaking of assuming it is an oil leak...if it was your power steering system leaking, the dye mentioned earlier can also be added to the power steering fluid. You would only do so after eliminating the engine oil leak as the culprit.
Thanks Ljekses and Wilson. Appreciate the responses.
Any other way to confirm this being a VVT-i washer?
Assuming not an easy DIY fix,any idea what the dealership(No VA area) will charge to fix this?. Thought I'd try the Idy shop route, but looks like you get screwed either way.
Can I drive this for a few weeks very sparingly before taking it in to get fixed? Assuming this is engine oil. So does monitoring the oil level and using lightly cause any damage?
You can drive it for months, you just have to monitor the oil level.
I just got the car back from my trusted mechanic for the state inspection, new tires and this similar oil leak. Now let me say this, I just asked him to take a quick look and implied that if he can't find the leak don't worry about it bc Ive lived with it for a few years already. It was a busy day for him and his one tech so when I got the car back he said the leak was near the steering pump and he tightened some of the bolts near the area and to keep an eye on it. No charge for that.
My plan now is to just live with it for the time being. What I can't figure out is I'm pretty sure when they replaced the VVTi hose, they never loosened that lower banjo bolt. I have the service bulletin for that recall and they only removed the top banjo and then took the plastic cover off and then took that plastic hose out and replaced. So how would that cause the lower banjo to leak?!?! I do have that washer so I might get into it again but moving that steering pump out and back isn't really fun because it is a very tight/snug fit.
If you are in NoVA and want to avoid the dealer, like I do, a good independent is https://www.hrmautomotive.com/
They are my go to guys for repairs I do not want to handle. I have recommended them to several friends who all now rely on them for service. Very honest and competent guys. They are in the Springfield area.
Our ES350 used to seep motor oil in the exact same area, but Wilson2000 is correct, coming from the above, it can be from a myriad of areas. In our case, there was a TSB (Lexus EG010-07) that pointed to the timing cover. It never leaked to the ground and the crankcase never needed make-up oil. And, of course, I caught the leak outside the warranty period, around 70K. I addressed the issue by switching oil weight to 10/30, from 5/30. That greatly reduced the oil seepage and the engine now has over 250K and is still going. Didn't you take in your car for the VVT-i recall? Maybe, you can take the car back to where the recall was done to see of the washer is the source of the leak. Maybe, you'll get a free diagnosis from that.
BTW, that CV shaft carrier bearing is looking pretty rusted. I'd start spraying penetrating fluid to help break off that rust. The bearing has a nasty habit of seizing up to where removing the shaft becomes impossible.
Last edited by chuyrobles; Apr 19, 2020 at 12:24 PM.
Noticed a drop or two of oil about 2 months ago and took to an indy shop for diagnosis a month later. Guy said it was oil pan gasket leak. Paid $550 to have it resealed. Since this was just when the virus concerns just started, I didn't use the car much and noticed quite a few extra drops last week. Today I jacked up the car and crawled underneath to locate it and get some pics. Pictures are below.
Based on what I googled and saw, it could be the dreaded Timing chain cover leak or perhaps an optimistic banjo valve leak. I know the pictures show quite a bit of oil and make it hard to spot the source, but can any one help identify or confirm the issue here?
Did the mechanic miss it previously as the oil drops(type) are exactly the same as before? roughly the same location or is it simply bad coincidence.
Appreciate any help.
Many are neglecting to change the PCV valve. If clogged it builds pressure and oil leaks from the valve cover gaskets. Try changing the PCV valve (ca. 6.--) and retorque the valve cover bolts
Many are neglecting to change the PCV valve. If clogged it builds pressure and oil leaks from the valve cover gaskets. Try changing the PCV valve (ca. 6.--) and retorque the valve cover bolts
I did change the pcv valve. that was pretty easy. my car still leaks but very little so we just live with it. never have to top off bt oil changes.
This is easier said then done on this engine. It may be a better bet to replace the valve cover gaskets if going to the length of re-torquing the bolts. BTW...always use an accurate 1/4", inch pound torque wrench for this.
I like Chuyrobles' suggestion that it may be the notorious timing chain cover leak, as this is a common culprit.
I've chased leaks like this before with a cheap UV dye kit. You simply clean off all the oil with de-greaser, then add the dye to crankcase and drive a short while. Then, you put on special glasses and look for the luminescent dye with the included UV flashlight.