https://photos.app.goo.gl/x5oyoY4PnSWtHTSS7

If it won't let you guys see that let me know

 

Read the code(s) and report back. The revs are bouncing around is that what you're suspecting being caused by a vacuum leak?

 

Said misfire on cylinder 2. Changed all plugs cause they looked rough. Whittle chalky looking and the electrodes were pointed and almost touching. Same problem. When it warmed up this happened

 

Hello,

Is the Cylinder 2 Misfire the only code you have?

Try swapping the coils around to see if the misfire will move to a different cylinder, if so, it is a bad coil. If nothing would change, check for Constant Power and Ground, as well as for 12V when the Ignition is on, then use an LED light bulb to check if the signal is supplied to the coil. You can also make sure that the injector is firing by using a stethoscope or a long screwdriver.

If all that is good, get a compression meter and check the compression in all 3 of the front cylinders to see if it is about the same across all of them, if cylinder 2 is considerably lower, then it is a mechanical issue.

Hope this helps and best of luck!

 

Will do...hope it's the coil pack. The snap on cover and screw were left off of the fuel injection regulator? Had a white cap on it at the top of the engine pointing towards driver side of car. It's a DESCO product The last person to work on it left it laying there and it ride a couple hundred miles. What problems could that cause

 

If that is the driver's side of the rear fuel rail, it is the fuel pressure dampener. It is a tiny philips head. If you are lucky you can screw it back in loosely (the whole thing is a diaphragm meant to move inside) snap the cap back on and be done with it. But check for any fuel leaks, if there are any replace it. You need a 23mm crow foot to torque it properly. Also, watch the position of the crush washers, one has little cuts outs in it for fuel flow.

 

The cap was off and the screw was out. I'll loosen the screw a little cause I sent it home

 

p1305 ignition circuit malfunction bank 2 or no. 2

 

Switched coil pack and misfire moved. Now gotta figure out what is causing those to fail. I've already replaced that one Damaged, burnt, shorted, disconnected, and/or corroded wiring and connectorsDefective ignition coilsDefective igniterDefective PCM?
?

 

It is actually one of the more favorable outcomes of this whole apparition, if you can say so..

You have a 2000 ES300, which is a post-facelift model, where they did away with conventional Igniters like the ones that were used on previous models, now an Igniter circuit is actually built into each of the coils, so it is not a source of your issues. ECU cam be a factor, but then it would've likely fried your other coil that you swapped in there as well, which it didn't so it is semi-safe to assume that it is fine for now.

What is likely the biggest threat to any coils, whether it is older or newer style system are bad, worn out, gunked up spark plugs, they make it much harder for the spark to jump the electrodes, resulting in the coil having to work extra hard to make the spark happen, which doesn't have much of a positive affect on the longevity of the coils. Considering that you already got your plugs swapped out, you shouldn't have any more problems with coils, that should really help them last a long time.

If you are unsure, you can always visit a junkyard and get a coil from there for a test, see how it will hold up, and only then install a new one, but there is always a chance that the used coil is not that much better than the one you have already, so use your judgement..

Hope this helps and best of luck!

 

every plug I removed had white chalkie and the electrodes were pointed and almost touching. But you're right I'm glad it's just the coil for now
Any sense in buying better aftermarket? I know electricity loves good wire

 

White deposits are from fuel additives it's common. OEM coil is $100 online aftermarket about half that or you can go really cheap get one for $20, your call.